Trip Report Colombia Caribbean side (Santa Marta and Cartagena areas)

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profmason

Registered
Messages
35
Reaction score
48
Location
Los Angeles
# of dives
200 - 499
Diving in Colombia from July 24 - Aug 10. I haven't seen much information about this so I thought I would share. I dove with a colombian dive guide in Mexico who highly recommended the area around Santa marta as a mellow dive destination with good coral.

I flew in to Santa Marta which is easy from LA with a stop in Panama on Copa airlines. A 40 minute taxi ride to Taganga (the diving village that borders the tayrona national park.

Day 1. Sidemount class pool instruction
Day 2: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. Training sites some some sandy bottom but nice brain and staghorn coral. A fair sampling of reef fish. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 3: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. See above. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 4: Diving Paso Del Angel, la Traversa to Morrito Largo. It was a good trek with some current with an eager young DM. Morrito Largo is a seperate island that you fin to during la traversa. It is a nice wall and drops off deep (limited by the MOD of N32). Nice formations. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 5: El corito and el Coro, got a fair bit of wind and chop which limited visibility. Visibility 40 ft, water temperature 82.
Day 6: Punto de Granate: Had some juniors on the boat so dropped of here and then headed out deep off solidero, really spectacular staghorn coral. Visibility 80 ft temperature 82
Two nights of shore dives off Taganga beach. In both cases was out 70 - 80 minutes in 25 ft of water. You can swim out from the beach about 10 minutes to reach decent coral and lots of usual night life, crustaceans etc. Octopus were playful. Night time water temperatures were the same 82 and air temperature was in the mid 70s.
Several more days of diving much like the above.


In summary good visibility, warm water, nice coral, OK reef fish. It is very easy convenient diving. I stayed at a AirBNB for $18 / night with a great terrace overlooking the ocean. It was an easy 5 minutes walk to the dive shop and then another 5 minute walk to the beach (your gear and tanks are delivered to the boat) . I dove with german owned posideon dive center which after looking at a lot of other boats would argue has the nicest boat. (custom build catamaran with dual yamaha 150s and and easy step in entry and a nice dive ladder. Many of the other ops have you taking BCDs off and climbing over the side of the boat. Diving prices were about $85/ 2 tanks at the high end (where I was) to $60 / 2 tanks. Ops are full service. Classes are inexpensive with lots of folks going through open water at $230 total(at the low end). My 3 day private sidemount course was $360 all inclusive with an excellent instructor. It was easy to keep to a budget of $150 per day including diving.

Visiting Rosario Islands off Cartegena. I booked with Diving Planet (who was sidemount friendly). They have a slip at the navy pier. It is about an hour boat ride to the island. We did two dives off the east side if isla grande. The first dive I enjoyed good visibility 90ft and 86 degree surface temperatures with a thermocline to 80 degrees at 8-12 feet. The first dive had a nice wall and Coral was in good condition with noticably more reef fish then in Taganga. I started to have sinus problems and called the second dive after 55 minutes due to sinus pressure which meant I was in no shape to appreciate the diving. I had booked two nights on the island to get in 7 dives, but it was not to be. I took the boat back to cartegena the next day and 4 days recovering from cold symptoms with my diving cut short. Diving planet was a fine operation (though not at the level of posideon) running 10 people on fast boats with 2-3 DMs separated by skill level. Time to dive sites was only 10-15 minutes from the island at diving planet picks up at all the docs on the island. The ride back to cartegena was 70+ minutes with lots of wind and chop bouncing the boat around.

With direct flights from miami to cartegena under 3 hours, it seems like the Caribbean side of colombia should be a solid low key warm water relaxing dive destination on the cheap. Likewise from LA to Santa Marta was an easy jump. There was little to no sign of US tourists, though I met many lovely folks from the netherlands, germany and spain.
 
Diving in Colombia from July 24 - Aug 10. I haven't seen much information about this so I thought I would share. I dove with a colombian dive guide in Mexico who highly recommended the area around Santa marta as a mellow dive destination with good coral.

I flew in to Santa Marta which is easy from LA with a stop in Panama on Copa airlines. A 40 minute taxi ride to Taganga (the diving village that borders the tayrona national park.

Day 1. Sidemount class pool instruction
Day 2: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. Training sites some some sandy bottom but nice brain and staghorn coral. A fair sampling of reef fish. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 3: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. See above. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 4: Diving Paso Del Angel, la Traversa to Morrito Largo. It was a good trek with some current with an eager young DM. Morrito Largo is a seperate island that you fin to during la traversa. It is a nice wall and drops off deep (limited by the MOD of N32). Nice formations. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 5: El corito and el Coro, got a fair bit of wind and chop which limited visibility. Visibility 40 ft, water temperature 82.
Day 6: Punto de Granate: Had some juniors on the boat so dropped of here and then headed out deep off solidero, really spectacular staghorn coral. Visibility 80 ft temperature 82
Two nights of shore dives off Taganga beach. In both cases was out 70 - 80 minutes in 25 ft of water. You can swim out from the beach about 10 minutes to reach decent coral and lots of usual night life, crustaceans etc. Octopus were playful. Night time water temperatures were the same 82 and air temperature was in the mid 70s.
Several more days of diving much like the above.


In summary good visibility, warm water, nice coral, OK reef fish. It is very easy convenient diving. I stayed at a AirBNB for $18 / night with a great terrace overlooking the ocean. It was an easy 5 minutes walk to the dive shop and then another 5 minute walk to the beach (your gear and tanks are delivered to the boat) . I dove with german owned posideon dive center which after looking at a lot of other boats would argue has the nicest boat. (custom build catamaran with dual yamaha 150s and and easy step in entry and a nice dive ladder. Many of the other ops have you taking BCDs off and climbing over the side of the boat. Diving prices were about $85/ 2 tanks at the high end (where I was) to $60 / 2 tanks. Ops are full service. Classes are inexpensive with lots of folks going through open water at $230 total(at the low end). My 3 day private sidemount course was $360 all inclusive with an excellent instructor. It was easy to keep to a budget of $150 per day including diving.

Visiting Rosario Islands off Cartegena. I booked with Diving Planet (who was sidemount friendly). They have a slip at the navy pier. It is about an hour boat ride to the island. We did two dives off the east side if isla grande. The first dive I enjoyed good visibility 90ft and 86 degree surface temperatures with a thermocline to 80 degrees at 8-12 feet. The first dive had a nice wall and Coral was in good condition with noticably more reef fish then in Taganga. I started to have sinus problems and called the second dive after 55 minutes due to sinus pressure which meant I was in no shape to appreciate the diving. I had booked two nights on the island to get in 7 dives, but it was not to be. I took the boat back to cartegena the next day and 4 days recovering from cold symptoms with my diving cut short. Diving planet was a fine operation (though not at the level of posideon) running 10 people on fast boats with 2-3 DMs separated by skill level. Time to dive sites was only 10-15 minutes from the island at diving planet picks up at all the docs on the island. The ride back to cartegena was 70+ minutes with lots of wind and chop bouncing the boat around.

With direct flights from miami to cartegena under 3 hours, it seems like the Caribbean side of colombia should be a solid low key warm water relaxing dive destination on the cheap. Likewise from LA to Santa Marta was an easy jump. There was little to no sign of US tourists, though I met many lovely folks from the netherlands, germany and spain.
I don’t think there’s a better DC than DivingPlanet in Cartagena( I have dived with 4 different ones there).

You hit the nail on the head about Taganga, good coral but not much interesting sea life. I got my OW with Tayrona Dive Center which is Poseidon’ neighbor. Taganga was over run with Israeli gangsters several years back until the leader was deported (more than once I believe).

BTW if anyone goes to Sta Marta O strongly recommend not going to the beach in El Rodadero. The girl that got me interested in diving told me that she once participated in a clean up event there. Her friend was assigned El Rodadero and came back covered in crap.

The last time I went to Sta Marta I dove with a DC that was located at that beach. We didn’t dive there but left from a canal that went to the ocean, maybe about 100m. When we got in the boat the owner warned us to not touch the water because it was apparent that the city was pouring raw sewage “again” into the canal.
 
Diving in Colombia from July 24 - Aug 10. I haven't seen much information about this so I thought I would share. I dove with a colombian dive guide in Mexico who highly recommended the area around Santa marta as a mellow dive destination with good coral.

I flew in to Santa Marta which is easy from LA with a stop in Panama on Copa airlines. A 40 minute taxi ride to Taganga (the diving village that borders the tayrona national park.

Day 1. Sidemount class pool instruction
Day 2: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. Training sites some some sandy bottom but nice brain and staghorn coral. A fair sampling of reef fish. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 3: Sidemount skills at Solidero and calichan off isla de la aguja. See above. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 4: Diving Paso Del Angel, la Traversa to Morrito Largo. It was a good trek with some current with an eager young DM. Morrito Largo is a seperate island that you fin to during la traversa. It is a nice wall and drops off deep (limited by the MOD of N32). Nice formations. Visibility 70 ft water temperature 82
Day 5: El corito and el Coro, got a fair bit of wind and chop which limited visibility. Visibility 40 ft, water temperature 82.
Day 6: Punto de Granate: Had some juniors on the boat so dropped of here and then headed out deep off solidero, really spectacular staghorn coral. Visibility 80 ft temperature 82
Two nights of shore dives off Taganga beach. In both cases was out 70 - 80 minutes in 25 ft of water. You can swim out from the beach about 10 minutes to reach decent coral and lots of usual night life, crustaceans etc. Octopus were playful. Night time water temperatures were the same 82 and air temperature was in the mid 70s.
Several more days of diving much like the above.


In summary good visibility, warm water, nice coral, OK reef fish. It is very easy convenient diving. I stayed at a AirBNB for $18 / night with a great terrace overlooking the ocean. It was an easy 5 minutes walk to the dive shop and then another 5 minute walk to the beach (your gear and tanks are delivered to the boat) . I dove with german owned posideon dive center which after looking at a lot of other boats would argue has the nicest boat. (custom build catamaran with dual yamaha 150s and and easy step in entry and a nice dive ladder. Many of the other ops have you taking BCDs off and climbing over the side of the boat. Diving prices were about $85/ 2 tanks at the high end (where I was) to $60 / 2 tanks. Ops are full service. Classes are inexpensive with lots of folks going through open water at $230 total(at the low end). My 3 day private sidemount course was $360 all inclusive with an excellent instructor. It was easy to keep to a budget of $150 per day including diving.

Visiting Rosario Islands off Cartegena. I booked with Diving Planet (who was sidemount friendly). They have a slip at the navy pier. It is about an hour boat ride to the island. We did two dives off the east side if isla grande. The first dive I enjoyed good visibility 90ft and 86 degree surface temperatures with a thermocline to 80 degrees at 8-12 feet. The first dive had a nice wall and Coral was in good condition with noticably more reef fish then in Taganga. I started to have sinus problems and called the second dive after 55 minutes due to sinus pressure which meant I was in no shape to appreciate the diving. I had booked two nights on the island to get in 7 dives, but it was not to be. I took the boat back to cartegena the next day and 4 days recovering from cold symptoms with my diving cut short. Diving planet was a fine operation (though not at the level of posideon) running 10 people on fast boats with 2-3 DMs separated by skill level. Time to dive sites was only 10-15 minutes from the island at diving planet picks up at all the docs on the island. The ride back to cartegena was 70+ minutes with lots of wind and chop bouncing the boat around.

With direct flights from miami to cartegena under 3 hours, it seems like the Caribbean side of colombia should be a solid low key warm water relaxing dive destination on the cheap. Likewise from LA to Santa Marta was an easy jump. There was little to no sign of US tourists, though I met many lovely folks from the netherlands, germany and spain.
Thanks for the review. We are in Taganga (okay, Santa Marta Marina) currently. Dove with Oceano DC to get our new gear salty and the guide, Otto, was patient, confident, and assistive. The dive boat was spacious for the four divers and five crew. It rained heavily the night before so visibility was limited, but the purpose was to test out the new gear. We leave in a week to Panama, if you are here on the ScubaBoards in time, what sites do you recommend in the park to hit that you enjoyed the most?
 
So happy to find your post. We're planning a mostly non-diving vacay to Columbia, but want to get in a day or two. We're planning on including Cartagena and the mountains above Santa Marta (Minca area). So- it sounds like the Rosario Island area (near Cartagena) is the better choice for diving. Just what I wanted to know. Was planning on packing light and just renting everything. I'll bring my mask. And contact Diving Planet!

so - thanks for posting your report. appreciate it! (of course... photos would have been nice :).
 
Cartegena is a pretty nice place to stay. The old walled city is essentially a theme park of tourism. Picture “main street USA“ of Disneyland, but instead of early american style, it’s done up in old spanish colonial architecture. Dive trips require an hour on a fast boat out to the Rosario Islands, where the diving was pretty darn good. 100ft visibility. 85 degree water. Healthy reef and no drift. I’d recommend Diving Planet. They were well organized, had good equipment and made it all pretty effortless. The coral walls go deep, but they keep the dives above 20m.

Thanks for the recommendation of Diving Planet (above). They did a Great job.
 
Awesome info on here! My wife and me are planning to squeeze in a few days of diving while traveling Colombia at the end of May/early June. We don't have time to try and do Malpelo or Providencia so plan to dive on the Caribbean side while we travel around Cartegna, Tayrona NP and Minca.

From what I have read here it looks like Rosario islands are better than Taganga but when people have gone diving in Taganga, did they dive along Tayrona NP? Or just in the areas outside of Taganga/Santa Marta. Trying to figure out if we should do both or just do Rosario and use the the extra days for something else.

Appreciate any insight!
 

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