Correct bolt snap for Halcyon Scout?

[mikeguerrero]

Do you guys recommend the 3/8 bolt snap for stowing the light away? I have the DUI compressed neoprene gloves and went with the 3/4 larger bolt snap for my Scout

My concern is when I go to deploy the light will the snap be too large that it snags on the harness bungies, as I pull it down vertically.

The 3/8 is much smaller and should not snag but with thick gloves it could be hard to handle when trying to deploy.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

MG

 

[Belmont]

I don't think it would cause any binding, after all the thing is well rounded and even if the diameter is larger it should slip out easily. In case of an emergency, when you have to deploy your secondary lamp I don't think a little rubber band would offer much resistance to a good "adrenalin" pull. I wonder if the length would be more of a problem, as it is, with a medium boltsnap, I find the three battery Scout goes a bit too far down on the webbing and it has a tendency to creep back up leaving the bolt snap loose on the D ring.

 

[b1gcountry]

I never pull the bolt snap through the bungee. My deploy procedure for a backup light is to:
1. Locate light and yank it out of the innertube.
2. Turn it on.
3. Signal buddy.
4. Unsnap the light.

You'll probably also want to turn the dive, but that's another discussion.

I usually use the 3/4" snaps for everything because you can find them at Lowes for about $3.50 a pop compared to $12.50 at a shop. Plus, the little ones are sometimes a pain with dry gloves. I also tend to clip my backup light with the gate facing my harness, and all my other stuff with the gate facing out.

Tom

Tom

 

[lamont]

I never pull the bolt snap through the bungee. My deploy procedure for a backup light is to:
1. Locate light and yank it out of the innertube.
2. Turn it on.
3. Signal buddy.
4. Unsnap the light.

I used to use the method of grabbing the end of the scount and pulling it out and sending the innertube up to the boltsnap, turning it on and then futzing around with the boltsnap-innertube cluster**** that i had created to unsnap it. It does work slightly better to have the scout boltsnap so that the hook is pointing towards your body.

Better method is to run your thumb down the side of the scout and hook the innertube and pull the innertube down and off of the scout. Now its easy to turn it on and then unhook it.

 

[SparticleBrane]

Better method is to run your thumb down the side of the scout and hook the innertube and pull the innertube down and off of the scout. Now its easy to turn it on and then unhook it.

Ding ding ding...

I would highly recommend against undoing the bolt snap and then yanking -- that's a great way to somehow slip and drop the light. Make sure the bolt snap is attached, and then do what Lamont suggested. Dropped backup lights aren't good when you are in the open ocean, possibly over a deep area...that would be an expensive mistake. I generally do everything I can to leave the backup light attached to the D-ring, and only take it off if absolutely necessary.

 

[mikeguerrero]

Here is a picture of the Scout on my right shoulder harness, do you guys think the bolt snap is too large, should I go one size down?

Also I'm not that clear on where to place the two rubber tubbings, should I slide them all the way down on the head of the light?

Thanks,

MG

 

[mikeguerrero]

Here are two other pics with me in the harness, I know I don't have on my drysuit but I want you guys to give me a perspective if the Scout is on correctly. I do use the DUI compressed neoprene dry gloves with liners.

Thanks,

 

[Belmont]

Yes Mike, that is how I was taught to set it up by my DIR instructor.
I would like to find a shorter boltsnap so that the Scout does not go so far down.

 

[DIR-Atlanta]

Here is a picture of the Scout on my right shoulder harness, do you guys think the bolt snap is too large, should I go one size down?

I use smaller snaps on my backup lights (in fact the smallest ones I can find, but then I do not typically dive with thick gloves). You have the snaps oriented correctly, with the gate facing away from your body. Also, only one rubber keeper is used per light, down near the light head. The second keeper is left unattached as a backup, in case the first one breaks during a dive. I typically store my backup keepers up behind the D-rings (as close to the metal glide as possible), but I have also seen them pushed down near the waist strap.

When you take Fundies (you are getting ready for Fundies right?), your instructor will likely explain all of this to you, and help you get the positioning of everything just right.

 

[SparticleBrane]

DIR-Atlanta said what I was going to -- although I will add that if smaller bolt snaps are difficult to manipulate with thick gloves, get some that you CAN manipulate.

I was taught in GUE-F to use one rubber piece on the light, down towards the lighthead. The other is kept on the harness between the D-ring/tri-glide and the rubber attaching to the light. If the one on the light breaks, then the other is easily accessed because it is held between the d-ring/triglide and the lighthead, instead of working it's way down to your backplate. If that happened, it would essentially be inaccessible. Not the end of the world, but a minor (or possibly major, depending on the dive) annoyance.