D200 Housing, Sea and Sea or Ikelite

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Mr. Bubble

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Okay, I am buying a housing for my D200, but I don't know which one would be best. The Ikelite is $1,500 and the Sea and Sea is over $2,500. I can get the Sea and Sea at wholesale prices, but would have to pay full price for the Ikelite.

Does anyone have hands on experiance with BOTH of these housings? I would like to hear pros and cons for each. I would have to order them both to see for myself, as there are no dealers within 300 miles.

Thanks,

Mr. B
 
I can only speak to an Ikelite housing in general because I have a Coolpix P&S rather than the D200. The only thing that I really have a problem with where my Ikelite system (camera, housing, DS-125 strobe and WA Lens) is concerned is its pure negative buoyancy. Man is it ever heavy "out of the box". This is a bad thing but I know it needs substance to withstand the pressures so it is not a complaint (more of an observation). It is rated to depths far greater than I hope to ever go so perhaps it is overkill....perhaps it is safety margin. I am going with "safety margin" in my case. I have yet to drop the money on all of the UL arm components to reduce negative buoyancy but I will really regret it if my lanyard were to ever break. The buttons..a little too close together for "cold water divers" because gloves make it tough to accurately hit the buttons.

Other than that, I have nothing but great things to say about it. Everything is where it should be and works fine and as it should. I have never had anything fail (knock on wood) and am very happy with it. I would not hesitate to recommend Ikelite. The Sea&Sea pro's and con's will be forthcoming I am sure.
 
The D200 S&S housing is very milled aluminum verses lexan. It really depends on which strobes you plan to use. if you have not yet purchased them Ikelite strobes are quite nice. I like the fine control the S&S offers, I have direct buttons for most everything the camera offers.

Both are a bit negative in the water but that is easily fixed. The S&S is tough to hold for a long time with just one hand unless you do add a bouyancy tube. I wanted a system I could trust to 200 ft at least. The Light & Motion was my first choice or the Subal, but the cost was too high for those. Next in line for me was the S&S. Something you may want to consider is what ports you plan to use that may help you decide which system is better for you.

Both are nice and if you can get the wholesale/keyman price on the S&S verse retail on the Ikelite, then it really will come down to which system better meets your needs.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am leaning toward the Ikelite, unless someone can convence me that springing for an extra K is so worth it. Its not like I intend to bang the housing all over the place. And yes, the cold water button factor could be an issue, but I could also get around it for $1,000.

As far as the strobs are concerned, I also lean towards the Ikelite 200. Lots of power and fast recharging.

As for the bouyancy of the arms. Is this a special set of arms, or something that most UW camera's are doing now. I would want to compensate for the weight as you mentioned.

Thanks again
 
I think you are smart to stick with the Ike strobes only because they are a good strobe. As for the buoyancy of the arms, all it is is a special set of arm "gear" that is positively buoyant. I think the set-up I was looking at from Reef Photo in Florida was about $400 to remove about 1.5 pounds of negative buoyancy. Knowing first hand just how heavy the set-up is, it will be worth the $400 or so but with a good lanyard, you can get them after if you choose. I am looking to add the second strobe first....there is another couple pounds on top. People also make plastic air pockets that you can mount to the system to help byt they look like they would impede use (just my opinion).

No matter what you choose, I look forward to seeing the results.
 
I'm not familiar with the S&S, but I've shot tens-of-thousands of images with my D200 in my Ikelite before moving to the Light & Motion.

The Ikelite is easy to modify for Thumb Focus. This is critical. I dive in the surge, and its impossible to expect me to press the shutter half-way to lock focus. I thumb focus. Make sure the S&S has a lever on the back of the housing that activates the back focus button.

Also - make the shutter pulls back (not down) into your hand. Again - very easy mod for the Ikelite.

If the S&S doesn't offer both thumb focus and pull back shutter, its a deal breaker.

Also - what lenses are you shooting? Ports add up. Consider the port costs in your total cost package, as long after you move into the D300, D400, D700.... you'll still have your lenses.

Ikelite will always be first out with the new DSLR housings. And your ports will always fit the new housing.

I don't get all the floaty nonsense people add to their housings. Pool noodles and Boyo arms and stuff. 1.5 neg. Are you kidding me? I shoot an aluminum housing, with aluminum ports, with glass fronts, standard arms, DS125 strobes. I do long dives and can take hundreds of shots one handed. A few pounds neg is a good thing. Some mass is a good thing. Improves stability. Water is always moving. The less it moves my gear, the sharper my images are.

---
Ken
 
I use the S&S for my D300...However, I believe the D200 housing is much heavier. If I am not mistaken, it is cast and not milled Aluminum. I love my Sea & Sea.....however, at this point, I am not sure it is worth paying the extra grand to house a D200 with it. Of course, the cost of your ports is also a factor to consider when upgrading in the future (if you choose to change housings). The weight of the Ike system is definitely a plus when traveling given airline restrictions.

I have handled the Light and Motion system too for the D200. It is FAR LESS negatively buoyant than a Sea & Sea system. I can imagine that the Ike is even less so. With my Sea & Sea used with the 105 VR Macro, without my Stix arms and buoyancy collar, the whole rig would drop like a stone.... If I let go, I would have to fin after it! Even with the collar and buoyancy arms, it is still negative.... The only time the rig is even just slightly negative is when I am using the optical dome port and NO arms/strobes. I agree with Mo2vation that some mass is a good thing. However, the Sea & Sea systems are indeed quite negative compared to others. I can happily shoot regardless of how negative it is...however, its nice to be able to hold my camera with it not feeling like a lead weight....
 
I use the S&S for my D300...However, I believe the D200 housing is much heavier. If I am not mistaken, it is cast and not milled Aluminum. I love my Sea & Sea.....however, at this point, I am not sure it is worth paying the extra grand to house a D200 with it. Of course, the cost of your ports is also a factor to consider when upgrading in the future (if you choose to change housings). The weight of the Ike system is definitely a plus when traveling given airline restrictions.

I have handled the Light and Motion system too for the D200. It is FAR LESS negatively buoyant than a Sea & Sea system. I can imagine that the Ike is even less so. With my Sea & Sea used with the 105 VR Macro, without my Stix arms and buoyancy collar, the whole rig would drop like a stone.... If I let go, I would have to fin after it! Even with the collar and buoyancy arms, it is still negative.... The only time the rig is even just slightly negative is when I am using the optical dome port and NO arms/strobes. I agree with Mo2vation that some mass is a good thing. However, the Sea & Sea systems are indeed quite negative compared to others. I can happily shoot regardless of how negative it is...however, its nice to be able to hold my camera with it not feeling like a lead weight....

Thanks for sharing. I had no idea the S&S was so neg. Makes sense why so many of the people I know who shoot S&S float them up a bit.

I've only shot the Ike and the L&M. On land, with Ike's weighted base, there are only a few ounces difference in the weight of the two, as amazing as that seems. In water, they're even closer.

I can toss my L & M rig, re-position my hand and grab it on the way down.

No so stoney. That'd be pretty spooky over a deep wall of on an oil rig.

Thanks.

---
Ken
 
Thanks for sharing. I had no idea the S&S was so neg. Makes sense why so many of the people I know who shoot S&S float them up a bit.

I've only shot the Ike and the L&M. On land, with Ike's weighted base, there are only a few ounces difference in the weight of the two, as amazing as that seems. In water, they're even closer.

I can toss my L & M rig, re-position my hand and grab it on the way down.

No so stoney. That'd be pretty spooky over a deep wall of on an oil rig.

Thanks.

---
Ken


Heh...don't try that with a Sea & Sea..... the S&S's are great... good ergonomics, compact, sturdy and IMHO, quite pretty :wink: However, a rig that you can toss for a sec while making other adjustments and grab again is a joy to behold. I remember the first time I tested the S&S in the pool...... I tossed it up in the water and it felt like throwing a small brick around underwater.....I would never consider letting go of my camera when diving if it were not for the Stix arms. With them though, I happily let go, to make any adjustments I need. Without the Stix, it would be a race to the bottom if not careful....

Although I have handled the L&M's, I have nowhere near the experience or skills that Mo2vation has though. So take my experience with a pinch of salt. Having said that, I can safely assure you that the Ike's are worth every penny and worth trying. If you don't have the latest camera, keep in mind that your housing will become obsolete when you change your camera too....the only thing that you can keep are the ports (and lenses). If you really want to upgrade later, you could of course go with housings that use adapters for other brand ports (such as Seatool or Nexus).

Regardless of housing choice, you are on the right path......I look forward to seeing your photos!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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