Diaphragm Pressure switch?

Should I diy it or rocket science stuff best left for taking our a mortgage to pay?

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  • Nein it's going to be scrapped metal

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samdefloreal

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Messages
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Location
Mauritius
# of dives
25 - 49
Hello all,

Currently filling my tanks from LW 100 E1 ECO which pumps out around 100 L/min
So far so good - two things were missing from the setup which was not added when I ordered it due to the cost.
1. Automatic condensation drain priced a little bit over EUR 650
2. Auto stop & hours counter priced at EUR 400 +

I have recently fitted an automatic condensation drain (Oh lordy...you've no idea how much easier it is to fill up without having to fiddle manual drain every 15 mins) and now i'm looking at installing an adjustable diaphragm pressure switch.

While the automatic condensation drain was easy enough to install on my own, I don't think I can install the adjustable diagphragm pressure switch on my own therefore a little help is needed.

Has anyone done something of the sort and if you have, possible to provide some help?


Thank you for reading!

Sam

Pressure switch specs :
Diaphragm-Pressure Switch- 1/4" - Up To 320 bar - Changer - Adjustable
Product Description
Comfortable and precise adjustment of the switching point by hand wheel
Connection over DIN angle plug
Applicable for compressed air, hydraulic oil, turpentine, heating oil, water
Application
Application
Manual adjustable pressure switches for the monitoring of operational pressure of fluid and gaseous madias
Technical Data
Valve Body - Zinc diecasting
Sealing - NBR
Diaphargm - PTFE
Switch-back difference - 10% from
Protection Type - IP65
Electric connection - Angle Plug DIN 43560 Bgr. 3
Media Connection - G 1/4"
Switch Type - Changer
Switch Capacity- 3A at 28V DC ; 4A at 230V AC
 

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@samdefloreal I wouldn't use an adjustable pressure switch. I would use a fixed pressure switch which is ~$100 at whatever you want the compressor to shut off at for maximum pressure *typically bank bottle pressure*, then use an adjustable regulator to control the tank pressures. What happens there if you are filling directly from the compressor is the bottle will stop filling when it hits your set pressure and the compressor will run for a short amount of time longer until the filters/lines/etc are up to switch pressure. This is how commercial setups are done
 
@samdefloreal I wouldn't use an adjustable pressure switch. I would use a fixed pressure switch which is ~$100 at whatever you want the compressor to shut off at for maximum pressure *typically bank bottle pressure*, then use an adjustable regulator to control the tank pressures. What happens there if you are filling directly from the compressor is the bottle will stop filling when it hits your set pressure and the compressor will run for a short amount of time longer until the filters/lines/etc are up to switch pressure. This is how commercial setups are done

Hello tbone1004,
Well well that's a spanner in my wheels. Got to rethink the whole thing now. If I may....can I ask would it be less costly or the same to go with adjustable pressure switch alone (around 140 us dollars) or fixed pressure switch and adjustable regulator? I haven't got a bank bottle setup so filling straight to my diving cylinders.
Any name/links to fixed pressure switch and adjustable regulator greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Sam
 
This is the regulator used by pretty much everyone
415-6000 REDUCING REGULATOR 0-6000PSI - HIGH PRESSURE BREATHING AIR REGULATOR, AQUA ENVIRONMENT - SAFE AIR SYSTEMS, INC., RANDLEMAN, NC 2731
Switch is generic. Mine are from Nason, and they're available in whatever pressure you want with a myriad of fitting options so you have to dig through and find out which is good for you.
This is the specific model number I have on mine and is adjustable from 2400-2700psi. It is not a transducer though so setting the cutoff pressure is a bit annoying and is not something you want to adjust with any sort of frequency
CD-6B7-2600J/QC
 
That's a really nice setup - it's what I've got in mind when it's time to put together an air bank with 50l tanks. Adjustable regulator with two pressure gauge coming up to usd 300 and a pressure switch at around usd 100 is right off the edge for now.
I've got 12ltr steel tanks btw so filling up to 210 - 230 bar.

Did you install the pressure switch?
 
I have a fill regulator on my setup, but I think its unnecessary with a small compressor without a HP bank. Why not just set your relief valve for your desired fill pressure? If you aren't right there when the tanks are full it just releases until you show up to shut it off. If you have the regulator set to 230 bar and the relief set to 300 bar you are working the compressor pretty hard for no reason until you shut it down. Save the fancy regulator for when you want to fill a HP bank.
 
@samdefloreal yes, they're not difficult to install, but you do need to understand the wiring of your motor and how to cut it off.

@wwunder the issue is if you have tanks that fill to different pressures. If you have HP steels and AL80's, setting the relief valve to 4000psi for the HP steels is probably quite a bit higher than you want the Al bottles to be filled to. It's fine if you have one pressure you fill to, but really annoying if not. Those OPV's also are not designed to go off on a frequent basis and they like to change pressures on you without warning. If you're going to that hassle, put a variable pressure switch on it since the tuning process is the same and the switch will be much more repeatable
 
I have a fill regulator on my setup, but I think its unnecessary with a small compressor without a HP bank. Why not just set your relief valve for your desired fill pressure? If you aren't right there when the tanks are full it just releases until you show up to shut it off. If you have the regulator set to 230 bar and the relief set to 300 bar you are working the compressor pretty hard for no reason until you shut it down. Save the fancy regulator for when you want to fill a HP bank.

Different filling pressures depending on types of bottles I get, the relief valve might not be very convenient - I did think of that one initially but didn't find anything that's up to 250 bar without overshooting the adjustable pressure switch price tag. Thank you for the suggestion though. Much appreciated.
 
@samdefloreal yes, they're not difficult to install, but you do need to understand the wiring of your motor and how to cut it off.

@wwunder the issue is if you have tanks that fill to different pressures. If you have HP steels and AL80's, setting the relief valve to 4000psi for the HP steels is probably quite a bit higher than you want the Al bottles to be filled to. It's fine if you have one pressure you fill to, but really annoying if not. Those OPV's also are not designed to go off on a frequent basis and they like to change pressures on you without warning. If you're going to that hassle, put a variable pressure switch on it since the tuning process is the same and the switch will be much more repeatable

I've bit the bullet and shot a cheeky email to the manufacturer's tech dept demanding (asking politely) they hand over the installation instructions of the pressure switch. Will see how that goes....

Motor wiring on/off box has got two big ass capacitors.
 

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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