DIY Video Housing a success...

[FunkyDiver]

If a pipe is Schedule 40, it will be printed somewhere along the length of the pipe. My local Ace hardware store is very good about selling PVC pipe in shorter lengths than 10'. However my brother had a good idea to possibly get small pieces for free. He said to go to places where new homes are being built, and sometimes the builders will be throwing away their scrap pieces. He said you can normally get their small scraps for free. But you will still have to buy the couplers and whatever other peices you need.

 

[Warthaug]

OK, still cannot find 4" PVC in an amount I need/can afford. A few stores around here will sell me 20' lengths, but that is what I'd call "excessive", and the price isn't exactly pocketbook friendly. I visited several building sites, but no one seems to be using 4" PVC (lots of 4" ABS though). Anyhow, I seem to remember seeing someone's housing here built of ABS. Was that my imagination? Would ABS be a viable alternative to PVC?

Thanx again

Bryan

 

[FunkyDiver]

Warthaug, I'm not sure about ABS. Maybe mddolson can answer your question. He said in an earlier post that he designs things with plastics. I would think that as long as you can glue it and seal it, and it is thick enough, that you should be able to use ABS. The walls of schedule 40 PVC is 1/4" thick, and I feel fairly certain that it will go to great depths before it would break due to the pressure.

As an update to my project. I've now had it down to approx 25' with no leaks. It is just a very simple design using PVC and a PVC coupler on each end that we cut down. It is very similar to Bobby_M's design. I use 3/8" plexiglass for each end and some stainless draw latches that I got from Mcmasters (along with the silicone 425 o-rings). I can open both ends. I don't have controls in it (yet). I do believe I will be using some abrasion resistant polycarbonate for the next version, because the plexiglass is scratching fairly easily, and they show up depending on how close the camera is focused and where the light is coming from.

 

[boroarke]

wow, what happened to this thread??? It use to me smokin.

 

[cjfox]

I guess everyone finished their housings successfully and is out shooting great video. I am still playing with the lighting, but my camera housings work excellent!

 

[ScubaPhd]

I would think that as long as you can glue it and seal it, and it is thick enough, that you should be able to use ABS.

I am using ABS for my rig and I am confident that it will hold. The ABS walls are thicker than the PVC and thus the O-ring has larger surface to compress against. As far as I know, ABS is rated to ~150 PSI so as long as I don't go deeper than 100 feet it will be ok. I hope :huh: ...

 

[CFDAlden]

I'm in the process of being certified for my OW, and found this thread. I sat down and read it all in one shot!

I was sondering if I could take my DV with me, but the commercial cases were way too expensive. I'm happy I found this.

After looking around, I've come up with my own idea, let me know what you think:

I plan to use a coupler to sandwich my acrylic lense between the coupler, and the main housing. With the marine epoxy, I should be able to get a solid seal putting a bead on either side of the lens. Should the excess of the coupler block any of the view, I can trim that as needed.

The rear would be mounted as many others here have done, with the latches from McMasters.

Any thoughts?

(Oh - I have a good friend who's a master plumber - he'll give me all the scraps I need to play! )

-

 

[ScubaPhd]

CFDAlfen,

My housing is based on a design very similar to yours with few minor differences. I think that the "Sandwiched" plexiglass method is the most secure one.

Instead of a coupler, I used an end cap. It goes over the 4 inch pipe just like the coupler but it does not extend further. All you have to do is cut a whole in it which is slightly smaller than the plexiglass lens. Furthermore, I used a flexible marine glue called "Goop". As few people on this forum have mentioned, the epoxy might crack after few cycles of pressure changes. Therefore, you're probably better off with a glue that remains soft after it dries.

I hope this helps...I will try to post few pictures tomorrow so u can see my final piece.

Atanas

 

[hollywood703]

Im not sure if anyone else is using this method (hard to tell by pictures) I am going to sandwich a piece of 1/2" or so Arylic or plexi between the ends of 2 PVC then stretch a section of PVC to hold it all together. Then epoxy or Weld on the front and back for added protection....let me know what you think

 

[pdh]

Why not add an o ring. If you are going to the trouble to put the end into the groove shown in the drawing then put an o ring behind the glass between it and the tube. Then instead of gluing, screw the outer ring into the the thicker part of the tube to compress the glass against the o ring. It only has to hold it tight for the shallow part of the dive, water pressure will seal it when deep so don't over tighten. Epoxy does not flex and does not stick to glass very well, the housing will flex under pressure so it will leak sooner or later if you are relying on it for a seal. If you aren't relying on it for a seal then don't use it as it's only going to get in the way when you try and take it apart. If you can't use an o ring then you could try silicone sealant but put it between the glass and the housing rather than where it is shown on the drawing. Use a nice thick bed and let it harden a bit so it acts like an o ring before doing it up tight.

Like this

Paul.