Drysuit Dump Valve Problem

[njaimo]

I recently sent my drysuit in for some mods, and my dump valve was "re-sealed/glued". Unfortunately, it seems that the sealant/glue used to mount the valve to the suit also got in the threads that couple the inside and outside valve parts, and I cannot unscrew the valve to take it off. (There are several good reasons why the valve should be easy to take off by the diver).

I would like to ask if anyone has any tips on how I can overcome this problem without destroying the valve or the suit...?

Cheers !

 

[undrwater]

Send it back in. Tell them your (reasonable) expectation is to be able to remove the valve.

 

[WantSomeScuba?]

What @undrwater said. The drysuit exhaust absolutely needs to be removable. You paid them, make them make it right.

 

[njaimo]

Many thanks for the replies. I live in Canada, and the drysuit Co. is in the US. It costs 60-80 USD each way top ship, and then I have to pay duty/customs when it comes back.

Doing a little research in the SI-Tech website (my valve is a SI-Tech) I found (clearly stated in their valve literature) that silicone should NOT be used when installing the valves as (...wait for it...) "it could get into the valve threads making it very difficult to disassemble".

I figure that any reputable drysuit manufacturer (such as the one that made my suit) should know this, and thus I am very hesitant to send it back, as well as dealing with the shipping and duty costs. I would rather do it myself than take the risk of further issues. In their defense, the mod done to the suit is beautiful, I just wish they had not messed with my valve -- it is clear that some training is necessary there.

Has anyone had this issue ? how was it solved ? is the only option to destroy the valve to take it off, and install a new one ?

Happy July 4th !

 

[fmerkel]

I've seen a number of them 'glued' on with silicone caulk. Since there is not a lot to grab on to, depending on the brand, it can be difficult to remove them even when not glued down. I finally got a SiTech tool and use one of those non-slip jar lid removal pads to get mine off.

 

[njaimo]

...when I first received my new (custom) suit, the valve was easy to take off by hand, and had been installed with what seemed like rubber cement... not sure why they changed to use silicone instead...

...I saw the the tool you (fmerkel) talk about... wonder how much it will cost. There are also the other two cylindrical ones... I've snet SI-Tech a note on this and waiting to see what they may suggest to do.

After looking at the SI-Tech website (once I get the valve off) I think I am going to install one of their rubber "valve ports", and wont have to deal with these problems in the future...

 

[fmerkel]

Well, technically you generally don't HAVE to take it off most of the time. You can open it up to clean it (instructions available on line). Or fold over the cuff seal and fill the arm with warm water to flush it out. I've got Sitechs going on 13 years old still working fine.
The inlet valve is another story. Those need rebuilding almost yearly.

 

[KevinNM]

The tools are not expensive. $15 or so, you want two (one inside, one outside). They apparently are being replaced by the combi tool.

 

[fmerkel]

I have the combi tool. It helps but it does not help as much as I hoped. A pair of those 'sticky gloves' work just about as well if your hand strength is good.
I think they designed the valves deliberately to be hard to remove and hard to service without knowing some of the tricks.

 

[njaimo]

...thanks again for the posts. I've tried with one of those rubbery fabrics for opening jam jars, etc. with no luck. I think I have decent hand strength. Seems one may be able to put more torque with the longer handle of the combi-tool..? ...or would heating it with a hair-dryer, or perhaps icing it would help ? thinking maybe icing it would make the plastic contract a little ? or maybe heating it would make the silicon softer ? ..hoping maybe the folks at SI-Tech will have a fix...