BHB ScubaTroll
Contributor
BIG NOTE: If you don't want to read why or how this project came about, skip to the part that has this title "DC600 Dual Strobe Project"
Well, I have two strobes for my DC600 and both mounting plates cracked in the same place. (Joe, this is a serious R&D issue. The plates fail where they taper down and the cut in's are made. This is a real issue from everyone I know who has a SeaLife Strobe!)
I wasn't happy to find out that the plate wasn't available by itself. It only comes with the arm attachment for $80.00
NOTE: I have since found the plate itself for $24.00 via the SeaLife Replacement Parts web site + $10.00 each for shipping... a lot high in my opinion for a plastic part that can be sent via priority post for $4.85
Part: SL96045 FLASH MOUNTING BASE FOR SL960, SL960D AND SL961 (if you are interested in ordering.
---
This project has bounced around in my head for more than a year. I got the new strobe as a present right after the old strobe plate cracked to the point of not being able to be used. That being stated, it hasn't been a priority project for me. Recently, my strobe plate has cracked with the new strobe in the same place as the old strobe plate. In speaking with friends who have the strobe, all of them are finding the same problem (one even gave me the direct email of a SeaLife person who is sympathetic to the issue and sent her and three others a replacement plate at no cost)
====
DC600 Dual Strobe Project
I've banged around a number of ideas... Buying a generic dual setup, fiberglass over wood, stainless steel, Lexan, cutting down an anchor, etc. I finally decided it would come down to buying the generic dual setup.
Fiberglass over wood is possible but the drilling would help rot the wood.
Lexan, while great for airplanes, is very thin for retail purchases. I would need to epoxy them together for the strength... and even then, I worried about it being to flexible.
Cutting down an anchor requires special tools I don't have around the house. The same is true for stainless steel cutting
I've been looking at Home Depot and Lowe's for stainless steel plates. They really don't have them. I looked for a plate at West Marine. Theirs were only 10" and were $40.00 (not bad, but 10" Plate was smaller than I wanted)
Today, I went to my area West Marine for another look. My local West Marine has a back area with discontinued items. This weekend those items were discounted an additional 50%. What the heck, I'll see if anything pops into my brain while I walk the isle...
I found a plastic material that is made for a sailboat window. It was 15" long and 5 1/4" wide. It was pretty sturdy and fit the tools I have at the house... mainly a 10" compound miter saw, a drill, a Dremel and sand paper. The cost was great (with the 50% off) at $12.00
HERE IS THE PROJECT IN STEPS!
Original material (sorry, I started pictures after I worked with the material)
This is the original material that I cut down to 3 - 1 3/4" pieces. I additionally cut one of the pieces down to 13" which is the size I wanted for my dual strobe project.
Here, you see the original piece had 2 holes already drilled
The holes are not where I want them for the strobes, but they will work for the generic "spotting" light I am going to add to this setup later. I drilled 2 holes with a 1/4" drill bit to the outside of the original holes. My holes Put the strobes at 12" apart.
This piece of material is the thickness of my original strobe base minus the thickness or a single 1/4" stainless steel washer. That means, I needed a trip to HD or Lowe's in order to get the stainless steel parts I needed to complete the project... (small packages)
2 - 1/4" - 20 x 1" Round head slotted ss screw (2 in a pack... $.98)
1 - 1/4" x 3/4" Flat head slotted ss screw (2 in a pack... $.98)
3 - 1/4" - 20 Wing nut (1 in a pack... $.98)
3 - 1/4" Cut washer (6 in a pack... $.98)
$4.00 at Home Depot
Popped the lock links and changed out the round head screws, added the washers and wing nuts
I split the difference and drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the contraption for the camera (center length and center width). I added a 1/4" cut washer to the weight system and screwed in the camera... (how to keep the camera from shifting?)
After a small thought of how to keep the camera from shifting, I held a wing nut up to the outside strap attachment on the camera and found the wing nut was the same width as that attachment
with the camera attached, I marked the center of the strap attachment bar and drilled a hole to attach my wide-angle lens holder
I attached the lens holder with 3/4" flat head screw, a washer and a wing nut... making sure the wing nut ran perpendicular to the length of the base. That holds the camera in place and doesn't allow it to swivel on the base
The completed project...
With the wing nuts, it breaks down quickly after the days dives and everything still fits in my Elite camera case :cool2:
====
Scrap project...
I created some underwater rattles using some 1/2" copper pipe, caps and strap I had left over from a change of the water heater...
Well, I have two strobes for my DC600 and both mounting plates cracked in the same place. (Joe, this is a serious R&D issue. The plates fail where they taper down and the cut in's are made. This is a real issue from everyone I know who has a SeaLife Strobe!)
I wasn't happy to find out that the plate wasn't available by itself. It only comes with the arm attachment for $80.00
NOTE: I have since found the plate itself for $24.00 via the SeaLife Replacement Parts web site + $10.00 each for shipping... a lot high in my opinion for a plastic part that can be sent via priority post for $4.85
Part: SL96045 FLASH MOUNTING BASE FOR SL960, SL960D AND SL961 (if you are interested in ordering.
---
This project has bounced around in my head for more than a year. I got the new strobe as a present right after the old strobe plate cracked to the point of not being able to be used. That being stated, it hasn't been a priority project for me. Recently, my strobe plate has cracked with the new strobe in the same place as the old strobe plate. In speaking with friends who have the strobe, all of them are finding the same problem (one even gave me the direct email of a SeaLife person who is sympathetic to the issue and sent her and three others a replacement plate at no cost)
====
DC600 Dual Strobe Project
I've banged around a number of ideas... Buying a generic dual setup, fiberglass over wood, stainless steel, Lexan, cutting down an anchor, etc. I finally decided it would come down to buying the generic dual setup.
Fiberglass over wood is possible but the drilling would help rot the wood.
Lexan, while great for airplanes, is very thin for retail purchases. I would need to epoxy them together for the strength... and even then, I worried about it being to flexible.
Cutting down an anchor requires special tools I don't have around the house. The same is true for stainless steel cutting
I've been looking at Home Depot and Lowe's for stainless steel plates. They really don't have them. I looked for a plate at West Marine. Theirs were only 10" and were $40.00 (not bad, but 10" Plate was smaller than I wanted)
Today, I went to my area West Marine for another look. My local West Marine has a back area with discontinued items. This weekend those items were discounted an additional 50%. What the heck, I'll see if anything pops into my brain while I walk the isle...
I found a plastic material that is made for a sailboat window. It was 15" long and 5 1/4" wide. It was pretty sturdy and fit the tools I have at the house... mainly a 10" compound miter saw, a drill, a Dremel and sand paper. The cost was great (with the 50% off) at $12.00
HERE IS THE PROJECT IN STEPS!
Original material (sorry, I started pictures after I worked with the material)
This is the original material that I cut down to 3 - 1 3/4" pieces. I additionally cut one of the pieces down to 13" which is the size I wanted for my dual strobe project.
Here, you see the original piece had 2 holes already drilled
The holes are not where I want them for the strobes, but they will work for the generic "spotting" light I am going to add to this setup later. I drilled 2 holes with a 1/4" drill bit to the outside of the original holes. My holes Put the strobes at 12" apart.
This piece of material is the thickness of my original strobe base minus the thickness or a single 1/4" stainless steel washer. That means, I needed a trip to HD or Lowe's in order to get the stainless steel parts I needed to complete the project... (small packages)
2 - 1/4" - 20 x 1" Round head slotted ss screw (2 in a pack... $.98)
1 - 1/4" x 3/4" Flat head slotted ss screw (2 in a pack... $.98)
3 - 1/4" - 20 Wing nut (1 in a pack... $.98)
3 - 1/4" Cut washer (6 in a pack... $.98)
$4.00 at Home Depot
Popped the lock links and changed out the round head screws, added the washers and wing nuts
I split the difference and drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the contraption for the camera (center length and center width). I added a 1/4" cut washer to the weight system and screwed in the camera... (how to keep the camera from shifting?)
After a small thought of how to keep the camera from shifting, I held a wing nut up to the outside strap attachment on the camera and found the wing nut was the same width as that attachment
with the camera attached, I marked the center of the strap attachment bar and drilled a hole to attach my wide-angle lens holder
I attached the lens holder with 3/4" flat head screw, a washer and a wing nut... making sure the wing nut ran perpendicular to the length of the base. That holds the camera in place and doesn't allow it to swivel on the base
The completed project...
With the wing nuts, it breaks down quickly after the days dives and everything still fits in my Elite camera case :cool2:
====
Scrap project...
I created some underwater rattles using some 1/2" copper pipe, caps and strap I had left over from a change of the water heater...
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