I’ve just returned from an excellent diving week-end in Dahab and I wish to share my experience and some thoughts.
1. Safety : I went/drove alone by car from Cairo to Dahab and back and didn’t feel insecure, not for a single moment. The usual check-points are in place and I was hardly bothered. My passport was checked only once, when crossing (actually going under) the Suez Canal, back from Sinai towards Cairo. Road traffic and life in the small towns along the western cost of the Sinai peninsula were as usual.
2. Tourism : Ok, tourism is low but gradually picking up. But neither Sharm nor Dahab are “ghost cities”. Most shops seem to operate and there is normal local life in the streets. Yet, business traffic is low, so shops, restaurants etc, are a bit pushy in prompting you to buy. Also, it gets unusually quiet after 9 or 10 in the evening.
3. Diving : A real enjoyment (both for divers and the fishes).. The Blue Hole was there just for me ! Weather conditions are very good. When not windy, a T-shirt is enough. But watch out, it gets fresh in the evening. Water temperature is at 22 Celsius. I was very comfortable in 5mm wet suit, although my local friends were complaining – they are too much accustomed to the warmth of the Red Sea.
Having said all that, you can’t fail noticing that “something” is not ok. The diving clubs are empty most time of the day. Some are closed, or worse, closed down – so I was told. It feels sad to walk-by diving clubs, seeing dry “wet” suits hanging and tanks neatly stored waiting to be used once again. It is also painful to see all these hundreds day-trip boats moored in Sharm bay, empty and alone, as if they have been cursed. It reminded me of the “decommissioned” merchant ships I often see in Greece moored away, to cut down operating costs, when the shipping industry is in crisis.
The good news is that the people I spoke with are optimistic, both for the business and Egypt’s future in general. Tourism is picking up, yet the progress is slow. I strongly believe that this is a right time to visit (or re-visit) the Egyptian Red Sea. Along with supporting the industry, visitors and divers can get more for less: Good abundant services with a variety to choose from, for substantially better prices. And, on top, the possibility to ask, discuss and learn from very experienced people, who now have the time and the willingness to spend literally hours discussing fine diving techniques, telling stories and sharing tips. I was fortunate to spend a couple of days with Tom Steiner, a TDI Course Director at Dahab Divers, a “tech” dedicated guy with a wealth of knowledge and experience from all over the world. You can’t imagine how much valuable information I took away out of these two days.