i have had my recsea housing and s95 for just over a year and have used it quite a bit over that time but im currently in nuwebia and have now flooded my second s95 this wk [that is TWO in a one wk period] the first time we thought it may have been a loose screw by the rear wheel but this time there is nothing loose or untowards showing, the camera didnt fog up i just noticed a lot of water in the back [which looked as if a lot had come in at a time rather than a trickle over a period of the dive. anyone got any suggestions, i look after my housing dont over grease the o-rings and ensure i do any work on it undisturbed or when i am not tired, i am really fed up as this housing cost a lot and to have two cameras flood in a wk is just not on
flooded recsea...help!!
- Thread starter mantababe
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In last April, I flooded 2 x S95 in a recsea housing.
The reason of the 1st flood : unknown, maybe a loose screw or a bad manipulation
Then I strongly screwed all the screws.
But 5 dives after : 2nd flood, this time I was sure that wasn't a bad manipulation nor a loose screw.
So I sent back my recsea housing to my supplier that sent it to Recsea in Japan for a complete check-up (it took a month) : apparently the back door was slightly distorted, invisible to the eyes. They explained the reason of this distortion : the 1st flood, as the "salted water + S95 battery" caused a chemical reaction that generated gaz and caused a pressure from inside that distorted the housing.
I don't know if I was clear as my english is not very good.
Then, as soon as you have the first flood with your housing : don't put a new camera inside before checking it.
Of course and unfortunately, it is impossible to check the housing while you're in vacation...
The reason of the 1st flood : unknown, maybe a loose screw or a bad manipulation
Then I strongly screwed all the screws.
But 5 dives after : 2nd flood, this time I was sure that wasn't a bad manipulation nor a loose screw.
So I sent back my recsea housing to my supplier that sent it to Recsea in Japan for a complete check-up (it took a month) : apparently the back door was slightly distorted, invisible to the eyes. They explained the reason of this distortion : the 1st flood, as the "salted water + S95 battery" caused a chemical reaction that generated gaz and caused a pressure from inside that distorted the housing.
I don't know if I was clear as my english is not very good.
Then, as soon as you have the first flood with your housing : don't put a new camera inside before checking it.
Of course and unfortunately, it is impossible to check the housing while you're in vacation...
Any of you using a non original battery?
I flooded my brand new Recsea S95 housing after about 10 dives. The reason, underdetermined. I am insanely careful so the flood was very disappointing. I emailed Recsea several times and have NEVER received a response. Scott, with Bluewater Photo has been very helpful and responsive. Since I got my housing just a few weeks before the redesigned s95 housing was released I wanted Recsea to simply retrofit my housing with the new double gasket back door, but Recsea, as I said has never responded to any of my emails.
I have now used my housing on about 15 dives since the flood with no problems, but I still would like to replace the door with the newly designed door, even if I need to pay for the work. I think Scott is looking into that possibility.
Floods are not fun!
I have now used my housing on about 15 dives since the flood with no problems, but I still would like to replace the door with the newly designed door, even if I need to pay for the work. I think Scott is looking into that possibility.
Floods are not fun!
Double gasket would mean two o rings?
---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------
I have read the old post and the issue seems to be with trays that are not flat where a lip gets on the door
what tray are you using mantababe?
---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------
I have read the old post and the issue seems to be with trays that are not flat where a lip gets on the door
what tray are you using mantababe?
Triggerman am getting worried too now. I got the recsea as ex demo and it is the original fisheye build with one o-ring.
What set up have you got with it? And what tray do you use?
I have an ULCS TR-DM flat with no lips
What set up have you got with it? And what tray do you use?
I have an ULCS TR-DM flat with no lips
That's my tray too and I am certain my tray is not the problem. I am super careful each time I take it out, but I'd really like the new and improved rear door. We'll see.
ozziworld
Contributor
Have been using the FIX S90 for almost two years now (estimate about 200 dives). I have the flat Ultralight tray TR-DM Tray as well. It is set-up with two handles, one Inon Focus light, two 8 inch arms, two 8 inch float arms and 2 Inon S2000 strobes. I dive the rig with an Inon Fisheye UFL165AD, 2 inon UCL165ADs on lens holders.
This rig weighs about 10.3 pounds out of the water.
When I have to hold the whole rig up with one handle. The thick ULCS TR-DM tray actually flexes under the weight of the strobes, arms and housing. This flexing may be transmitted to the housing, possibly creating a situation where the body and the door do not mate perfectly. I have 4mm thick spacers between the tray and the housing just to help further isolate the housing from tray. The housing does feel very rugged and well made but if you really look at it, in some areas, the aluminum is maybe only 1.5 to 2mm thick.
The trays with the lip can also create a situation where the housing door when tightened might rest on the lip and the door / body alignment is affected.
I have been lucky so far and have never had any leaks. I also have a back-up camera just in case.
This rig weighs about 10.3 pounds out of the water.
When I have to hold the whole rig up with one handle. The thick ULCS TR-DM tray actually flexes under the weight of the strobes, arms and housing. This flexing may be transmitted to the housing, possibly creating a situation where the body and the door do not mate perfectly. I have 4mm thick spacers between the tray and the housing just to help further isolate the housing from tray. The housing does feel very rugged and well made but if you really look at it, in some areas, the aluminum is maybe only 1.5 to 2mm thick.
The trays with the lip can also create a situation where the housing door when tightened might rest on the lip and the door / body alignment is affected.
I have been lucky so far and have never had any leaks. I also have a back-up camera just in case.
Gilligan
Contributor
I don't use the recsea but your discussion re the housing's position on the tray is a valid one. I pointed this out about my Canon housing some time ago on MY WEBSITE under the "damaging the tripod mount" part of the page.
IMHO if the housing door feet rest on the tray and pressure is applied the door can shift causing a flood. This can be a greater risk with more/heavier items on the tray. ONLY the tripod mount should rest on the tray bottom with the housing feet against the lip on the tray to prevent it from turning. Those feet should not touch the bottom of the tray.
IMHO if the housing door feet rest on the tray and pressure is applied the door can shift causing a flood. This can be a greater risk with more/heavier items on the tray. ONLY the tripod mount should rest on the tray bottom with the housing feet against the lip on the tray to prevent it from turning. Those feet should not touch the bottom of the tray.
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