Getting OW and looking for gear recommendations

[pacchill]

I really wish someone would have pointed me in the direction of backplate and wing when I spent my first couple grand on dive gear. Much more easy to bolt up some doubles with a BP than any jacket.
I know lots of folks feel that not only the BPW are tech rigs but diving a long hose too. Well I use both all the time. My wife who just got her open water, did her first nontraining dives in a backplate and wing, and long hose set up. She loves it. I recomend it to everyone now. Learn to use it, and it will be your best friend! lol
Diving Cali... think about getting a drysuit up front too. I used to live in SD and wanted one on EVERY dive, BUT Im a wussy when it comes to cold water.
Good luck

 

[LAJim]

I was pretty fast to go to BP/W and slow to go to drysuit. Details of my specific progression aside, the following are some recommended tools for diving California in comfort year round:

Drysuit with correct undergarments, BP/W, long primary, cannister light, steel tank 100 cf. or greater. Other nice points: low volume mask, Jets or Turtle fins, gloves with good tactile response, appropriate hood.

The typical first set of gear is a jacket type BC, Al 80 tank (if bought at all), split fins, cheap, high volume mask, snorkel (useless), clumsy gloves, diaphram regulator with short hose, trailing "console" (reef ripper), and wet suit. Most of this gets replaced rather quickly as the new diver moves toward dry suit.

Jim

 

[Wiggawam]

BC
I have been diving my Zeagle Ranger for 6 years and love it. I would recommend the crotch strap option though. I am seriously considering switching to a BP/W though. There is just something about the simplicity that I like. The Deep Sea Supply, Apeks WTX, and Dive Rite TransPlate are the three that are on the top of my list. If I go this route it will definitely have quick releases on the shoulder straps. IMO their convenience far outweighs their potential for failure. You can read more about this and the BP/W vs. “traditional” styles in the BC forum.

Regulators:

• I really love my Atomic Aquatics Z1 (Z2 is the latest model). The Apeks ATX series is also killer. Again, the Regulator forum has numerous threads on this topic.
• Scubapro AIR2 combo inflator/regulator. Choosing between a “traditional” octopus or combo inflator/regulator is also a heavily debated subject.

Tank:
Having a steel tank is nice out here (less weight on our belt). They are expensive compared to AL though.

Computer / Gauges / Dive Logging
§ Analog pressure gauge
§ Wrist mount Suunto Gekko. The Suunto Vytec or ScubaPro/UWATEC SmartZ would be sweet for hoseless pressure monitoring.
§ Wrist mount compass
§ ReefNet Sensus Ultra dive logger
§ Scubase dive logging software

I am very very happy with the ReefNet + Scubase integration. It makes dive logging a breeze.

Fins
I really recommend using spring straps. It makes in and out of the surf zone on beach dives that much quicker.

Good Luck!

Aaron

Thanks for all the well put together info!

I completed my certification earlier today and am itching to get into a dry suit, I get pretty cold after 2 dives in the water. I am set on getting a BP/W and am not just researching my options. Also definitely going with a steel tank and am still deciding which regulator setup I want to go with. Thanks for all the great help here guys, I hope to have my gear soon so I can get back in the water.

 

[Empty V]

A few months ago I purchased a USIA drysuit and I love it! One of the things that sold me on it is the testimonies I received by a few divers that said they've got 100+ and 150+ dives on them and no blown seals. Very comfortable, well designed, and, like the xcel quad polar wetsuit, super easy to get in and out of.

Good luck again!

Billy

 

[Wiggawam]

Would I be better served by getting a DIN or yoke type first stage? I was thinking of getting a high pressure tank since the cost doesn't seem to be that much more.

 

[Empty V]

I suggest getting a HP119 or 130. I bought a Yoke 1st stage and converted it to a din. If you travel you will most likely need to use the yoke, it's always good to have that interchangeability. You could also get an adapter the allows your din setup to work on a yoke tank too. That would probably be the way to go.

I started a thread before I bought my high pressure tank, it was very instrumental in my purchase. You should check it out.
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=146359

Billy

 

[scjoe]

If the tank is high pressure, you should get a DIN valve. You will also need a converter back to yoke if you intend to take your regulator with you on vacation. Many dive boats in vacation spots only have yoke fittings.

HP tanks are nice, but there is a catch. Boats generally pump everyone to 3000 PSI (even those whose websites say otherwise) so after the first dive you are down to about 85-87% of fill capacity. Some people prefer LP tanks for boat diving for that reason. A LP 85 may provide more capacity in dives 2 and 3 than a HP 100.

Since you are just coming out of an open water class, you might want to hold off on the tank. Your air consumption will improve and the size of tank you think you need today, may not be the size of tank you will need tomorrow. You can rent tanks for not much more than the cost of an airfill. There is the pain of returning the tank, but you have to do that with your own to get it refilled anyway.

A HP 100 is roughly the size of an aluminum 80 so it is pretty popular across the board. However, if you have very good air consumption and plan on doing mostly shore dives a HP 80 is nice and compact.

You indicated you were getting a drysuit because you got cold after two dives. Keep in mind you have been diving at the coldest time of the year, probably in a poor fitting rental suit. Also, classes tend to stay in their suits between dives because of briefings and that doesn't help. Drysuits are certainly nice, but they are by no means necessary for diving in most conditions in Southern California. A lot of people dive all year round in wetsuits. Since you are at Dive N Surf you are near JMJ which makes custom wetsuits. You might want to talk to them.

 

[Empty V]

The more air the better(IMO). If you fill a 119 to 3000 (disregarding the burnoff) you still get over 103cf with great weight characteristics. Remember, the bigger the steel tank, the more weight you can drop. I'd probably be wearing 50lbs of weight if I didn't have my monster tank.

BTW, not that it makes a difference because I use Din, but I know lots of people that are completely happy with using their yoke on they HP tanks. they say that there is no difference what-so-ever. But for some reason I do like the din better, maybe it's because it makes me feel kind of techie without being a techie, at least with diving.

Billy

 

[headhunter]

If the tank is high pressure, you should get a DIN valve. You will also need a converter back to yoke if you intend to take your regulator with you on vacation. Many dive boats in vacation spots only have yoke fittings.

HP tanks are nice, but there is a catch. Boats generally pump everyone to 3000 PSI (even those whose websites say otherwise) so after the first dive you are down to about 85-87% of fill capacity. Some people prefer LP tanks for boat diving for that reason. A LP 85 may provide more capacity in dives 2 and 3 than a HP 100.

Since you are just coming out of an open water class, you might want to hold off on the tank. Your air consumption will improve and the size of tank you think you need today, may not be the size of tank you will need tomorrow. You can rent tanks for not much more than the cost of an airfill. There is the pain of returning the tank, but you have to do that with your own to get it refilled anyway.

A HP 100 is roughly the size of an aluminum 80 so it is pretty popular across the board. However, if you have very good air consumption and plan on doing mostly shore dives a HP 80 is nice and compact.

You indicated you were getting a drysuit because you got cold after two dives. Keep in mind you have been diving at the coldest time of the year, probably in a poor fitting rental suit. Also, classes tend to stay in their suits between dives because of briefings and that doesn't help. Drysuits are certainly nice, but they are by no means necessary for diving in most conditions in Southern California. A lot of people dive all year round in wetsuits. Since you are at Dive N Surf you are near JMJ which makes custom wetsuits. You might want to talk to them.

I've got to echo what scjoe is recommending.

You need a tank only as large as is dictated by your air consumption and accounting for how much gas you need to get you and your buddy back to the surface safely. Different people breathe at different rates. A high or low SAC rate is neither good or bad. It just is what it is. Most people will lower their air consumption considerably in the first 25 - 50 dives that they do. Not everyone needs to carry a water heater into the water, but not everyone will be served well by an AL 80 either.

Wait for a while and do a little research first.

You may be someone who can save a ton of money by diving in an AL 80, instead of having to spend the money on huge steel tanks.

Also, if diving in a wet suit you should be careful about getting huge negatively buoyant tanks. If you find yourself at 100 feet and your wing fails, you want to make sure that you can swim up to the surface after your wet suit has compressed and you are grossly over weighted. Even if you can swim the weight up, you want to be careful not to raise the CO₂ levels in your body to dangerous levels that can lead to passing out underwater.

Christian

 

[LAJim]

Get DIN. Buy a steel tank with the pro valve that takes the yoke insert so a friend can use it wiht yoke. Buy a high end DIN regulator with a yoke adaptor for use on rental tanks in the carribean. The two main regs you see are Atomic and ScubaPro Mk 25.

I like 100's and 130's. 30% is a worthwile capacity increase at the cost of 10 lbs of weight. If I'm doing a short or shallow beach dive carrying a 100 might pay dividends. 130 gives you the air to dive until you are ready to stop.

If you use an Al 80 you have 78 cft. of gas and an extra 8 lbs. of lead. Gas or lead?

Jim