Got 2 free tanks, are they useable?

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84CJ7

Contributor
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Location
Rice Lake, WI
I was at a local business today when I noted two scuba tanks sitting outside next to a door. Note that the weather today was extrememly cold and last night wa freezing rain, so I thought that a little odd. I asked inside and the owner said that they were left behind in a house he bought by a person that got out of scuba diving a long time ago. He said I could have them free and I could give him something later if they turned out to be worth something.

They both seem to be steel, and one seems to be galvanized and painted, I would guess they are somewhere in the 60-70 range since they don't look as big as an aluminum 80 that I am used to but then its been months since I was diving and I didnt have that much experience so I really dunno. They are about 22" around and about 25" tall not including the narrowest part of the neck and the valve. weight is about 28.5 lbs each.


Now the bad parts, the first thing I did was crack the valves open to see if they had any pressure in them only to find that they had been sitting with the valves halfway open, I don't know for how long or how long they were outside.
I decided they couldn't get any worse from my meddling and took both tank valves off to look inside, both came off really easy. One was a J? valve (the one with the reserve handle) the other was the K valve, the k valve has a chip in the mating surface inside the o ring that I will have to have looked at to see if its even rebuildable. Last VIP date on both tanks is 1992. I just hammered the boots of of both tanks, the yellow one has flaky rust under there, the black one was unpainted under it and had a white chalky material, definetely galvanized.

Tank one has the older valve and is a yellow US DIVERS CO aqua-lung it has light surface rust on the interior in places, but it seems to be something that could be removed I think if I put it in a machine to turn ammo casings and filled it with the abrasive stuff for that. I question whether this tank is useable with that rust. It has the following stamped on it:
1CC3AA2250
K44880
USD
2067+
4 vsd 76+
3 B3/02 89+


Tank 2 is the unidentified black painted tank that appears to be galvanized, the interior has only a very faint rusty color in spots (no texture to them) and would clean easily. It has the newer valve that may be junk due to that minor damage.
DOT 3AA2250
HJ426487

<0> 6<0> 78+ L (in a circle or a C, not sure which and I dunno what the funny symbols that look like zeroes with ears are)
also stamped cruedely by hand on that tank is 2sd83

Am I correct in assuming the older yellow USD tank is a living room ornament and the newer galvanized black one may be saved depending on the VIP and hydro results?
What size are they?

EDIT: diameter is 7 inches, do you measure height just to the point where it starts to narrow, or up to the base of the neck? These seem to be steel 72-85 or something.
 
Probably steel 72's that are really only steel 67s. They are 72 only with the 10% overfill which is gone now... that's what the + was on the original hydro.

You are probably looking at tumbling, hydro, visual, and perhaps valves. So you might have $50 - $90 in some very old tanks, and you can get brand new aluminum 80's with valves for $125... So me... I'd turn them into a nice set of wind chimes or flower planters... But I know some guys like those old steels.
 
scubatoys:
Probably steel 72's that are really only steel 67s. They are 72 only with the 10% overfill which is gone now... that's what the + was on the original hydro.

You are probably looking at tumbling, hydro, visual, and perhaps valves. So you might have $50 - $90 in some very old tanks, and you can get brand new aluminum 80's with valves for $125... So me... I'd turn them into a nice set of wind chimes or flower planters... But I know some guys like those old steels.


And thats assuming they'll pass hydro/visual......otherwise you have some nice paperweights


At least you got them free.... I bought a surfboard off of a guy's streetside garbage.....

As it turned out.....it really was garbage :(
 
ScubaSixString:
And thats assuming they'll pass hydro/visual......otherwise you have some nice paperweights


At least you got them free.... I bought a surfboard off of a guy's streetside garbage.....

As it turned out.....it really was garbage :(


Uh... if it was in the garbage... why did you have to buy it? But never mind... just call our toll free number so we can sell you some stuff!
 
scubatoys:
Uh... if it was in the garbage... why did you have to buy it? But never mind... just call our toll free number so we can sell you some stuff!

this was long ago and in my "its still in his yard, i'll be honest about it and ask him how much he wants for it" days :wink:
 
Well you got them for free, that's a good start.

They are probably in the 65CF range. As a new diver that may be a little shy to keep up with AL-80 buddies but steel tanks do have buoyancy advantages that can buy back some of the lesser capacity in this case. If nothing else you should growninto them as you consumption improves. Also as long as valves are compatible (din or yoke) you can swap tanks with a buddy and make dive 1 on his 80s (we'll say) and then do the second shallower dive with the lesser cylinders. So there can be good use for these.

You say that you may be able to do the tumbling so do that and rinse and dry them.

Valves and boots get removed for hydro so get them tested for $15-20 each.

If they pass you may need to come up with a valve, no big deal.

Knowing that they are clean and hydro'd the VIP is a snap and that's yearly maintenance on any cylinder.

Taken a step at a time your risk is controled.

If you don't want them I'm sure someone here will ease your pain.

Pete
 
They are almost certainly generic steel 71.2's. A 71.2 holds 71.2 cu ft at 2475 psi and 64.7 cu ft at 2250 psi. A plus rating is required to get the 10% overfill to 2475 psi but this can still be doen at the next hydro test if you request andif you use a test facility that is willing to do it.

It sounds like flash rust on the interior of the black tank and that is both normal and easy to remove with tumbling. Your plan to tumble sounds like it will work. When done rinse with hot water and blow it dry to prevent formation of further flash rust. I normally use scuba regulator with the second stage removed from the end of the hose. Open the valve slowly to prevent the end of the hose from whipping around.

Internally, flash rust is fine but pits are not. If you have a spot where the rust cannot be totally removed, it indicates it is too deep into the surface and the tank will fail a VIP.

The exterior on both tanks is potentially more alarming. The flaky rust under the boot on the yellow tank is probably extensive enough to fail a VIP and there is no way to fix that. The critical issues are 1. whether there are any pits on the surface after the rust is removed. They are stress risers and are cause to fail the tank. And 2. how much of the surface has flaked off. Steel tanks are much thinner than Al tanks in the side walls, you cannot afford to lose any.

The crudely done "2sd83" on the tank smells like an attempt to forge a hydro test date stamp. Hydro test facilities use a code cositing of a letter and 3 numbers arranged in a square shaped pattern between the month and year of the test - where the "sd" is on your tank. The letters are normally hand stamped but testers do a lot of them and they are virtually always well aligned. It ocold indicate an owner effort to "certify " a failed tank or it could indicate an owner not wanting to spend money hydroing the tank.

But it's worth a try to recertify the tanks. The bouyancy traits on steel 72's are great. Costs will vary. Locally we charge $15.00 for a VIP and hydro test, and if a tank obviously fails an external VIP, we'd only charge for the VIP ($7.00). ON the other hand I have hear dof peopel paying $50.00 for a hydro test and then another $15.00 for VIP. Dive shops have a bad habit of tacking on a 100% margin to their costs and then charging you for the shop's VIP when in fact a VIP is required as part of the hydro test and is performed already by the test facility. If you can, work directly with a hydro test facility. Any local welding shop, medial O2 supplier or pop distributer shoudl be abel to tell you who they use.

While I agree with Larry that you may or may not not save a lot of money over a new Al 80, If one of your steel 72's passes the required inspectios, the odds are that with proper maintenance (annual VIP's, keep water out of it, and maybe tumble it every 10 years) it will out live Larry's new Al 80. We get welding tanks through the shop on a regular basis from pre-WW1 and the 1920's and also the occasional 50's era 1/2 valve steel 72 scuba tank and they still pass hydro tests with flying colors. I don't think very many Aluminum tanks are going to make it 40-50 years before being converted to beer cans.
 
They're totally worthless... just ship 'em to me and I'll get rid of 'em for ye :)
Rick

Ship to:
4256 Lomac
Montgomery, AL 36106
 
Rick Murchison:
They're totally worthless... just ship 'em to me and I'll get rid of 'em for ye :)
Rick

Ship to:
4256 Lomac
Montgomery, AL 36106

You would, of course, split the cost of shipping. All Heart.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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