How to reduce unwanted camera motion?

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ChrisA

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Looking at my own UW video footage I see more camera motion than I'd like. I'm trying to keep it still but it's hard. I'm using a Sony TRV33 with a 0.6 wide angle lens in a Top Dawg housing. I mostly keep the lens on full wide setting although sometimes rocks or something prevent me from being able to get as close as I'd want to so I zoom in a bit, making the camera shake problem even worse. I've added about a pound of lead to make the housing neutral. I'm hapy with the sharpness and color. I can remove some of the camera motin in post production but this means an image quality hit

Are people using tripods or monopods? What is the "secret"
 
The guy that filmed our UW wedding just swam around. I didn't see him use any props. I guess it is practice and weighting thing...If I remember right he didn't hold the camera that far away from the body...that might make a difference too. Sorry, I haven't tried that yet.

I hope some one with more experience will answer you soon
 
justleesa:
The guy that filmed our UW wedding just swam around. I didn't see him use any props. I guess it is practice and weighting thing...If I remember right he didn't hold the camera that far away from the body...that might make a difference too. Sorry, I haven't tried that yet.

I hope some one with more experience will answer you soon

I don't have an answer either, sorry. If I'm filming something small, I just plop the housing down on some rocks (we don't have coral here, :11: ) or whaever is handy. I've held that holding the camera more loosely, rather than more tightly, often helps - like if you're trying to carry a full glass of water while walking down the aisle of an airplane. You probably already knew that much though.

I too am considering moving into tripod territory sortof.

Does your camera have image stabilization?
Taxgeek
 
Practice is the key. I often use a stiff arm hold on my housing and controls when I am filming in midwater. Sometimes I will simply point the camera at the subject (if framing is less of an issue) rather than look through the viewfinder (which seems to make it less stable).

When filming close-up, follow the previous advice... use a rock or other solid substrate to stabilize the camera.

I also over-weight myself when I'm filming so I can settle to the bottom and be reasonably stable even in a slight surge. Of course this adds other problems one must consider. I also splay out on the bottom so my body makes several-point contact (not a good thing over a coral reef of course).

Dr. Bill
 
I do the same as Dr. Bill and over weight. I’ll add an extra 6 pounds on two clips to my belt with one on each side. Some times I’ll drop my fins and stand or kneel on the bottom.

A lot of it has to do with body control getting your body in a relaxed position where the camera is pointing where you want it to point with out forcing it. Then when you roll don’t adjust your body. It can help if you give your self a little consistent motion in a one direction. That will give you a little stability to your shots. Also the intentional move will disguise your unwanted movement.
 
Tip 1: (may not help you): slow down your breathing, be very relaxed, float with the sea. A lot of movement comes from trying too hard to stabilize. Even the slightest movement ripples though the arms and often over compensates, requiring a movement in the opposite direction. Get your bouyancy correct and float. Zen: "Be one with the sea."

Tip 2: (more useful than tip 1): Shoot a lot more than you think you need. Shoot the same scene several times. Shoot each take 3 times longer than you think is required. DV tape is cheap. Then, in the editing, find the sequence that has minimal movement.

Regards
Peter
 
Make sure your housing is trim weighted so the port is slightly heavy and you’re not having to fight to keep the camera pointed in a different direction than what it naturally wants to assume.
 
Do not zoom in on a subject if possible. Swim closer. Zooming will magnify any camera motion. dawhale
 
mainly I think it's practice. But tyring to be more smooth in your movements while kicking...otherwise you get torque rock from your body motion.

Smaller lighter cameras are more prone to shake. the bigger rigs are just a bit more stable from what I've seen....so it makes me wonder, adding more weight to the bottom of the housing and some empty tubes on the top to make it neutral again....? would that be helpful?

The other recommendation to have some extra footage before and after is a good idea, It think it's called lead in and lead out. I do it on all my shots now...unless the shot is already bad...then just try to save tape at that point :)

Also, keep from zooming unless you are very stable....and work on your bouyancy....

tough situations will happen and you won't be able to keep things stable...if you have to hold on to a rock during some heavier than usual surge, you'll get a lot of rocking motion because your hand hold the camera won't be as steady.

but in the end, practice practice practice.....review what you did, and practice some more to get it right the next time.
the first stuff I shot was pretty bad, but after a week straight, it got a lot better...

-M
 

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