HS Explorer, probs at depth

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

MikeR

Guest
Messages
72
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
Hi Guys,

On a couple dives I've had a problem with my HS. Yesterday I did a 315' dive. On descent passing through 200' the screen went blank. On ascent at about 200' it came back on. I'm sure its a case distortion issue. I believe that if the brass on the battery cover was in a certain position. I would not have this issue. Anybody experience this? Works fine as long as I'm not below 200', no leaks and no apparent damage. Comes back on and works fine...of course the deco is all screwed up.
 
Yours is not the first that I have heard of issues with the HS Explorer. One of rebreather divers I know is scraping his and moving to the VR-3 due to the issues he has with it.

In addition, I read somewhere and it may be The Dec Stop, about HS Explorer issues similiar to yours.

Mike...
 
MikeR:
Hi Guys,

On a couple dives I've had a problem with my HS. Yesterday I did a 315' dive. On descent passing through 200' the screen went blank. On ascent at about 200' it came back on. I'm sure its a case distortion issue. I believe that if the brass on the battery cover was in a certain position. I would not have this issue. Anybody experience this? Works fine as long as I'm not below 200', no leaks and no apparent damage. Comes back on and works fine...of course the deco is all screwed up.

Have had the explorer down past 500fsw, along with several other people that I dove with..

What brand battery did you use?? Not all manufactures have the same dimensions.

Tadiran batteries are a bit thinner than Saft cells.. Make sure you do no overtighten the cap (this will do exactly what you say)look at the ring inside put the tang just below this point (clockwise) so that if it moves during tightening you have a long way to go.. make sure the tang is bent out slightly (important on tadiran cells).. I also have a coductive grease I put on (when I remember to bring it with me) the tang as a precaution (not just with this computer) so if any warping occurs contact is guaranteed.

When tightening the cap watch the o-ring, the end of it should be just about even with the lip, if you tighten it too much it will cause the tang to bow under high pressure, especially with tadiran cells (gene had to slightly enlarge the battery compartment so SAFT cells could be used)

one thing you di not mention did the dive timing start over (it sound like it did)or did you just lose the display.. if you just lost the display, send it back... Gene is using a new connector (last year I guess) internally that is much more reliable than the previous one when it comes to flexing..


Diver mike,...
I dumped my VR3 due to reliability problems especially the buttons.. I have used the Explorer on lots of extreme dives and love it.. The VR3 deco proflies get me out of the water feeling like crap (if I try and follow them exactly) even though it wants me to hang considerably longer than the RGBM profiles generated by the explorer, or the GF profiles I generate with the HH..
 
Hi Guys,

Using a new cell provided by Gene. The timer did start over. I am not overtightening the batt cover, just get the second ring inside and very lightly hand tighten. What position do you put the tang in? For example if I lay the computer on its back with the battery opening facing me what clock position do you align the brass. I love the HS but if this keeps up I'll leave it home and dive tables only....Since thats what I'm doing anyway.
 
MikeR:
Hi Guys,

Using a new cell provided by Gene. The timer did start over. I am not overtightening the batt cover, just get the second ring inside and very lightly hand tighten. What position do you put the tang in? For example if I lay the computer on its back with the battery opening facing me what clock position do you align the brass. I love the HS but if this keeps up I'll leave it home and dive tables only....Since thats what I'm doing anyway.

if looking at the compartment with display up, compartment on left (buttons on right) my opening on the inner ring is about the 3'oclock position, I bend out the tang (my tank is about 20 or 30 degress from being perpendicular to the cap) and I start with it around the 5 or 6 oclock position then tighten it..

also make sure the scre on the battery tang is snug not overly tight the tang has to be allowed to move..

If it continues to happen I would send it back to gene with a detailed message there is always the possibility of a cold solder joint on the circuuit board that made it through testing or if it was an model o the wire for the oxygen cell used to route across the cpu and the pressure on the case was pushing against the wire and forcing a short.. I had a computer tha exihibited this and once the problem was isolated thats the last I have heard of people having this issue...
 
MikeR:
Hi Guys,

On a couple dives I've had a problem with my HS. Yesterday I did a 315' dive. On descent passing through 200' the screen went blank. On ascent at about 200' it came back on. I'm sure its a case distortion issue. I believe that if the brass on the battery cover was in a certain position. I would not have this issue. Anybody experience this? Works fine as long as I'm not below 200', no leaks and no apparent damage. Comes back on and works fine...of course the deco is all screwed up.

Your problem is not isolated. It's a fairly common problem of the HS Explorer. Before anyone jumps on me about that statment let give you a bit of background. I was VP of Sales at Abyss Dive Systems which was a codeveloper of the Explorer with HSE. We failed 2500 units in preship testing. We had constant problems with the cases and leaking. These problems were not hidden but became a significant enough problem with customers that we ceased selling those in 2003.

You must use the tadrian battery no other will fit, you must inset the battery in such a way that the seam does not come in contact with the metal tang of the battery cap, and you must use a conductive gel to ensure good contact.

Some people love the explorer. When it was designed in concept it was brilliant, in practice it left many people disapointed.

If your's is working and you like it -- great. If it's not and you have the time and patience to work through the issues I am sure you will be able to get it to work.

The #1 thing that was SOP in the original manual was that you must carry a back up timer/depth gauge and a set of bailout tables.

regards,
 
JS1scuba:
Your problem is not isolated. It's a fairly common problem of the HS Explorer. Before anyone jumps on me about that statment let give you a bit of background. I was VP of Sales at Abyss Dive Systems which was a codeveloper of the Explorer with HSE. We failed 2500 units in preship testing. We had constant problems with the cases and leaking. These problems were not hidden but became a significant enough problem with customers that we ceased selling those in 2003.

You must use the tadrian battery no other will fit, you must inset the battery in such a way that the seam does not come in contact with the metal tang of the battery cap, and you must use a conductive gel to ensure good contact.

Some people love the explorer. When it was designed in concept it was brilliant, in practice it left many people disapointed.

If your's is working and you like it -- great. If it's not and you have the time and patience to work through the issues I am sure you will be able to get it to work.

The #1 thing that was SOP in the original manual was that you must carry a back up timer/depth gauge and a set of bailout tables.

regards,
Joel You are wrong!
Gene has been shipping computers with SAFT cells for at least a year now (maybe even two years).. Saft cells are slightly thicker and his battery compartment has been enlarged.. On older computers saft cells fit very tightly..

Joel,
dont talk about leaking cases, yes there were a big batch that leaked, but Abysmal also continued to sell computers that Gene notified you guys not to sell and ship back.. I had the second computer of that batch that flooded, I also know the person who had the first one flood.. When my unit flooded your computers were already in route to abysmal.. If my memory is correct the leaking computers were around late july, your computers were received in August..The solution appeared around september, but I know of people buying computers as late as november (could have been later) that were from this recalled batch which anyone who was familiar with the problem KNEW they would flood, not if they would flood..

The product wasn't perfect but don't give half the story.. If you are going to Bash a product at least take responsibility for your companies actions as well..

Also don't just say thats the reason you stopped selling units... It makes you look bad, alot of people know what was going on between abyss and hydrospace..
Thats as fas as I will go in public with respect to that point..

I only sold about 10 of the abysmal version, but I sold a large amount of Hydrospace versions ( and continue to do so)with only a few problems that were quickly taken care of..
I also used many versions of the software before he let them loose on the public including having the first two model "o" units manufactured, to test dive before he released them..

Gene was regularly sending me computers to try and even made a clear unit for my personal use.. I think I dove with every computer color he had except pink... I had so many different test computers I lost count, in all I had ONE flood, one unit that was turning itself off that was solved by rerouting the o2 sensor wire iside the case (never had another probem), and had one units display come loose after the computer somehow found its way under my rebreather chasis and had a 2hour boat ride with a 100lb rebreather bouncing on top of it....
 
Well did a 260' dive yesterday. Put the brass at about the 5 oclock position as per gene. Seems to have relolved the problem.

As for the comments about the unit. I have a couple buddies who have never had any issues. I also have a VR3 and have had button problems with it.

Padi-thanks for the help. I was just getting a little frustrated. Seems to be working fine now.

Mike
 
MikeR:
Well did a 260' dive yesterday. Put the brass at about the 5 oclock position as per gene. Seems to have relolved the problem.

As for the comments about the unit. I have a couple buddies who have never had any issues. I also have a VR3 and have had button problems with it.

Padi-thanks for the help. I was just getting a little frustrated. Seems to be working fine now.

Mike


Mike mind if i ask what your diving at those depth's?

You and Padiscuba are getting some increadible depth's, Padi mentioned diving past 500' !!! Just wondering , when do you " Loose " daylight?

One day that would me my dream to dive a wreck at 500', man that's deep !
 
I dive the rbj/cc wrecks at 260'. They sank one boat and were sinking a second next to it and it landed on the first. So its a pile up of 2 wecks..awesome dive. At around 300' we have 2 wrecks the bill boyd and papas reef which are also very nice dives. The daylight is largely dependent on water clarity. Good vis= good light. Ive been on the RBJ and had pretty good light with excellent vis. On poor vis days it gets dark pretty fast. 500' is abit out of my range at the moment. Most boats I dive would not have adequate surface support or saftey divers but I do hope someday to venture that deep, I just have not had the opportunity yet...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom