Identifying old Scubapro 1st and 2nd stages

[axxel57]

Hi all,

I've collected a few regulator sets as part of 'assembling my 1st set of 2nd hand diving gear' purchases. Now, to prepare for a 2-tank config I was looking at what I had lying around and initially dismissed as 'old garbage'.
A quick google search told me that in fact ScubaPro regulators are among the best, and I may have something more than capable of serving as a regulator set for on a 2nd tank. However, due to them being purchased 2nd hand, I know nothing about them or their age of their previous owners (with all the stuff I got 2nd hand, I couldn't even remember what set I got where...).

So, I got one scubapro 1st stage, looks like new. Was used for a drysuit as far as I know. 5 ports in total. No model or so listed. Looking at other 1st stages, it may be some type of mk2, although these apparently have been in production for ages already. No clue about the age.

Then I got a 1st stage + 2nd + octopus:
The octopus is really small, and may be missing a front plate or so. apart from a serial or so no brand. The hose has a sleeve with oceanic on it though.
1st stage look very basic just a metal cylinder, but has 2 + 5 ports on a rotating turret. The yoke looks old, and has scubapro on it. The 2nd stage has 'Mark X Dual Balanced' on it.
Based on earlier posts on this forum that I found, it could mean that the 1st stage is a mk10, the 2nd a special European version of the 109 / 156 only sold like this in that specific configuration. That could mean that the set is close to 40 years old already.

If anyone can help me Identify exactly what these are and how useful they can be, that would be really nice!
Also regarding the 1st stages: how do these two compare to each other or to an Aqualung Legend 1st stage? Are they designed for cold diving (Netherlands during winter), and/or environmentally sealed / easy or cheap to service?
Regarding the octo and scubapro 2nd stage: How well would they serve in cold water diving? Are they worth servicing, or am I better off buying another legend, to ensure I have a set built for cold water?

Thanks for the help!

Nice find, especially the MK10 - Mark X!
It's a nice collectors item, pretty rare, and in this condition quite some bugs worth!
The Mark X was the European Version of the BA 150.
The only difference to the BA150 was the particular Adjusting Knob and the Face Plate with Mark X.
It was sold only in Europe and only between 1985-1987 (in the UK until 1989).
The MK10 at this time (1985) was sold with a matte finish, chrome came from about 1987 on in this combo.
So your baby is probably from1987-1989 (if it was sold in the UK).
It's a perfect cold water reg, if you want you can use the S.P.E.C. System Silicone to protect your 1st from icing ( that's what the small holes were for).
In this condition ( as it looks from the pics) it's a very rare beauty, so keep it, dive it, or sell it for a good price to a collector.
Good luck!

 

[DutchDiverDude]

Thanks all!

I will convert this one to DIN and use it on my (future) double set.

Some more info on this s.p.e.c. system would be much appreciated. Would any dive store / service center have it?

Same question for 'upgrading it to g250 spec'.

 

[Diverspoint]

Thanks guys! So a mk2 from around '91 based on the serial (looks newer to be honest though), and a mk10 + 159.
I haven't used either of the 1st stages. The mk2 'looks' a bit safer due to modern appearance, but I'm a sucker for old stuff, and would actually like to keep the mk10 and 159 together and use them as a set, assuming no downsides /safety risks compared to the others or possible upgrades. At the same time I obviously want to use the best that is available to me.

So the main questions I have left right now:
-which combination (159 + mk2 or mk10) is best for tec / deep / cold dives, and why?
-which is easier / cheaper to service / will have parts available for longer?
-Is it recommend to upgrade for safety reasons considering wanting to use them for tec/deep / cold dives?

I still dive my original Mk10 I bought 30 years ago. About 3000 dives. Looks crap as most of the chrome is gone, inside perfect.

I sent you a dm as I am originally Dutch as well

 

[ams511]

His version lacks the SPEC boot groove so cannot be properly environmentally sealed.

Some older mk10s (the ones with the metal yoke screw) have smaller holes for the ambient chamber like the MK-5 spec. This is so you can pack the chamber with grease and it won't leak out all at once. I am not sure if all the older mk10s are like that but I have a few.

 

[axxel57]

Your Mark X cannot be ' upgraded' to G250 specs, because either it is a 156 or a G250, which have been tested to CE Standards in the Mids 90ties ( and the G250s had been tested also with their Venturi Vanes, which the BA series never had)
You can upgrade a SP 109 to BA150, but your Mark X is technically already a BA150, so to upgrade your Mark X to a 156 you would have to swap the Mark X body with a 156 body of the 1st or second generation which would be pretty difficult to find to meet the CE exhaling standards, because the 156s had already the bigger G250 exhaust valves........

 

[Kupu]

Echoing the information provided by axxel57, this Scubapro dual balanced second stage is a 150 Balanced Adjustable.
Any Balanced Adjustables (in this case Mark X Dual Balanced) sold during the 80's are not 156.
To find a "G250 style" 156 Balanced Adjustable, one has to look for B/As produced in the mid 90's and these are very uncommon.

At this point, the habit of refering to all Balanced Adjustables as 156 is spread far and wide on Scubaboard (including older posts by me) and auction sites. A technicality that mostly matters only as it relates to exhalation WOB, but it can create confusion when discussing upgrades or purchasing a regulator sold as 156 with the expectation that it is basically a G250 in metal body.

 

[rx7diver]

... I will convert this one to DIN and use it on my (future) double set. ...

Very cold water and HP cylinders? If so, then, FWIW, I used a Mk10 with 300 Br. DIN conversion on my HP80 (3,500 psig) when doing three-season diving in MO and AR freshwater, without issue.

However, when I began drysuit diving in the Great Lakes (much colder water) using HP cylinders pumped to ~4,000 psig, I experienced a couple of free flows early on when using my Mk10's with 300 Br. DIN conversion. I switched to Poseidon Odin regs for this type of diving and no longer experienced these free flows.

Note, though, I never "environmentalized" my Mk10's.

rx7diver

 

[Kupu]

Some more info on this s.p.e.c. system would be much appreciated. Would any dive store / service center have it?

Same question for 'upgrading it to g250 spec'.

This 2nd generation enviromental system using the S.P.E.C (Silicone Protected Enviromental Cap) with tiny holes to the ambient chamber was a standard feature of most Scubapro first stages sold during the 80's, intended to keep the ambient chamber corrosion free and help prevent freezing of the first stage. It requires no parts or changes, the envromental chamber is packed with silicone grease during servicing. In 1990, the SPEC system became optional on MK10s by using a body with groove for the boot and larger ambient chamber openings.

You can confirm the first stage is SPEC by the size of the holes as shown on left side regulator. You will be able to see the spring as shown on the right if it is not, based on the 80s vintage of the regulator I would expect it to be SPEC version.

MK X Dual Balanced regulators have no performance enhancing upgrades available. However, the the second stage will need to be updated with current version balanced poppet and associated parts if this has not already been done during a previous service.

It is a perfectly good regulator. It uses a second stage that was my favorite for many years, and I would use the first stage although I personally prefer a later version of the MK10 with optional SPEC boot system.

 

[1Av8tr]

My Mk15 was purchased in 1993. Son just used to to certify OW MK15/G250 still works flawlessly!!!