I'm Ticked Off

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The 3000 psi rating is probably a sticker on the front, if its like the other Thermos that I've looked at and the ones I own.

That's just there to tell you what the burst disk rating is that is installed - there is no difference otherwise, but if you didn't know that and put the manifold on a 4350 tank set, it would blow for sure! :)

I wouldn't send it back. Now if the rating is ENGRAVED I would, but all my Thermo valves are just stickered, and I've got ones that have 3000 psi stickers, 3300 psi stickers, and 3500 psi stickers. The only difference I've found between them (and I've torn 'em all down) is the burst disk rating on each....

Again, I'd look at the number of threads. Count 'em, and post the number. That's conclusive as to whether you have a 200 bar or 300 bar manifold.
 
Genesis- your correct. there's a sticker on the front of the valve that states 3000psi. the engraving on the burst disk is 5000. i just counted the threads on the valve that i just bought and it only has about 5-6, compared to the valves i already have on my steel 100s which are 10-11 threads. i think i've been taken. not very happy!!!!
thank you for all the advice
 
Genesis- your correct. there's a sticker on the front of the valve that states 3000psi. the engraving on the burst disk is 5000. i just counted the threads on the valve that i just bought and it only has about 5-6, compared to the valves i already have on my steel 100s which are 10-11 threads. i think i've been taken. not very happy!!!!
thank you for all the advice

Uh, 5-6 threads on the tank (male thread) part?! Eeeek.

That makes no sense. Are you sure you're counting right?

ANSI standards require 9 threads "in service" for both valves and cylinders. Luxfer wants 8 undamaged, continuous threads in contact with the valve on their AL80s @ 3000 psi, 9 up to 3300, and 10 up to 3500.

I've never seen a tank valve with only 5-6 TANK (male) threads!

On the REG side, a 200 bar DIN valve has 5-6 threads (depending on how you're counting) and a 300 bar has 9-10. So if you're talking REG threads, you have a 200 bar manifold, with a 5/3rds burst disk set up for 3000 psi tanks. That's cool; its set up for double AL80s, basically.

Now the trick is that its perfectly ok for double HP steels, since those are 3/2 hydros and not 5/3s! Yeah, the burst pressure is anywhere from 4500-5000 psi, but if you overfill a HP steel tank by 1000 psi you deserve what you get.

But WAIT! You're also just fine @ 3500 PSI with a 200 bar manifold. Well, ok, 3442 PSI :) In fact, Pressed Steel is shipping their new E-series tanks with a converable DIN/Yoke valve that is a 200 bar DIN valve on tanks with a service pressure of 3442 psi.

I have three of them, and they're fine. No problems at all. They are my "primary" dive tanks and get HEAVY use. I have a 300 BAR din adapter on my 1st, and it works perfectly well - just has a couple of threads sticking out when put the first stage on. I like 'em - the valves are just rebadged Thermos - the only kinda odd thing with them is that I'm starting to get "squishy" seats, which is not too cool - they're nice and "slow", but I think the seat material may be a bit soft for good life.....

The nice thing about those valves is that you can get an insert (cheaply; about $7) that will allow a yoke reg to go on them, at least you can if the "dimple" is on the back of the valve. It is on most of these manifolds and valves. That's a nice feature, and some day when your reg breaks and you have only a yoke loaner available it may allow you to dive where you otherwise could not.

So whether you want to send it back is largely a matter of choice. Personally, for the $100 you paid, I'd keep it. That's a decent price and it'll definitely work. The only "gotcha" is that the burst disc pressure for HP steels is set 250 psi too low - not really a big deal, as you should never get anywhere near that pressure anyway.
 
which threads are you refering to? the outlet valve part? or the inlet? the inlet(what goes in the tank) has , depending how your counting 10-11 threads, but the outlet valve part(where the regulator screws into) only has 5-6 threads on the one that i have. like i said, the burst disk states 5000 psi engraved on it. i have a scuba pro mk25 w/ a 300 bar din. i also have 3 high pressure steel 100s at home. the valves that i just bought are much shalower than the ones i have at home.
if anything i'm saying is wrong, please correct me. i want to learn. thank you.:)
 
Now the question is, "so what"?

I'd keep it, myself. Why? Because it'll work just fine. The 5000 psi burst disks are ok; they're set up for 3/2 AL80s (the hydro pressure), but that's all right - a steelie is 5/3rds, or a test pressure of 5250 for a service pressure of 3500, so you've got a burst disk set about 250 psi too low.

But unless you overpump the tank by 1000 psi, it won't blow - and you aren't going to do that, right? :)

If its in otherwise good condition, I'd keep it. Yeah, it was misrepresented.
 
ALs are typically hydroed at 5/3rds of working pressure. So a 3000 psi tank is hydroed at 5000 psi.

Most steels are hydroed at 3/2s of working pressure. So a steel 3500 HP tank is hydroed at 5250.

The ACTUAL hydro pressure depends on the material the tank is made of and the DOT registration (or exemption) type/number...

The burst disk must be set at or below the test pressure (otherwise you risk having a bomb go off!)
 
GENESIS-YOU THE MAN!!. thanks a whole lot. ii love learning as much as i can. thanks again. i might have to pick your brain in the future. is that okay? :)
 

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