mts0628
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Hello All:
Well, since someone prompted me for pictures about my pocket installation, I decided to take a few more of things that will be beneficial to individuals who want to service their Apeks regulators.
So the first item is a mounting adapter, Apeks P/N 5116230. So, you can buy these for about 20 USD IIRC (not Apeks but from Scubatools), but they use steel for the ends: not on my regulators! For about 18 USD, you can buy a 12 inch section of 7/8" brass hex stock from onlinemetals. From this, I cut a 4 inch section, and then threaded the two ends 1/2 inch in, and to match the 3/8 inch by 24 TPI and the 7/16 inch by 20 TPI ports on the first stage. Anyone with a lathe or knows someone with a lathe can perform this operation.
The hex nuts are hardware store garden variety used to protect the threads when not in use.
Now, the Spring Adjuster Tool, Apeks P/N AT45, is a tool used to removed the spring adjuster from the adjustment knob. The spring adjuster holds two o-rings inside the adjustment knob and should be replaced during overhaul. I read somewhere here that an individual used a screwdriver to remove it!
My ATX 100 and ATX 200 that I have and an ATX 50 that I used to own had this C type configuration on the spring adjuster. Another ATX 50 that I have simply uses a hex wrench. Why couldn't this have been done on all of the spring adjusters?
Anyway, the Problem:
The Solutions:
To make, just cut a piece of JB Weld off, maybe 1/2 inch. Knead as directed and it will turn from a light gray to almost black. Roll the mass into a short cylinder maybe 3/8 inch diameter and 1 inch high. I waited about 4-5 minutes until it started to just harden. Timing is everything with this project. I then smashed an end of the molded JB Weld into the end of the spring adjuster and I held it there for a bit, while gently rolling the edges away from the adjustment knob ridges. Next I slowly lifted it off trying to preserve the negative mold. I set the made tool aside for a few hours to allow it to harden and then I tried it, and it worked!
If when you remove the JB Weld from the spring adjuster before it fully hardens and if a small amount is stuck in the grooves, I just used a staple to pick it out without damaging the problem I was trying to solve. Apparently not preparing the end that you want to mold actually helps release the JB Weld.
Apply the made-tool, orienting it so that it locks in the C-shaped groove. Now applying downward pressure while turning counterclockwise will remove the spring adjuster without difficulty. Assembly is the is the same way, but clockwise turning.
How it works:
I hope this helps.
With kind regards,
Thomas
Well, since someone prompted me for pictures about my pocket installation, I decided to take a few more of things that will be beneficial to individuals who want to service their Apeks regulators.
So the first item is a mounting adapter, Apeks P/N 5116230. So, you can buy these for about 20 USD IIRC (not Apeks but from Scubatools), but they use steel for the ends: not on my regulators! For about 18 USD, you can buy a 12 inch section of 7/8" brass hex stock from onlinemetals. From this, I cut a 4 inch section, and then threaded the two ends 1/2 inch in, and to match the 3/8 inch by 24 TPI and the 7/16 inch by 20 TPI ports on the first stage. Anyone with a lathe or knows someone with a lathe can perform this operation.
The hex nuts are hardware store garden variety used to protect the threads when not in use. Now, the Spring Adjuster Tool, Apeks P/N AT45, is a tool used to removed the spring adjuster from the adjustment knob. The spring adjuster holds two o-rings inside the adjustment knob and should be replaced during overhaul. I read somewhere here that an individual used a screwdriver to remove it!
My ATX 100 and ATX 200 that I have and an ATX 50 that I used to own had this C type configuration on the spring adjuster. Another ATX 50 that I have simply uses a hex wrench. Why couldn't this have been done on all of the spring adjusters?
Anyway, the Problem:
The Solutions:
To make, just cut a piece of JB Weld off, maybe 1/2 inch. Knead as directed and it will turn from a light gray to almost black. Roll the mass into a short cylinder maybe 3/8 inch diameter and 1 inch high. I waited about 4-5 minutes until it started to just harden. Timing is everything with this project. I then smashed an end of the molded JB Weld into the end of the spring adjuster and I held it there for a bit, while gently rolling the edges away from the adjustment knob ridges. Next I slowly lifted it off trying to preserve the negative mold. I set the made tool aside for a few hours to allow it to harden and then I tried it, and it worked!
If when you remove the JB Weld from the spring adjuster before it fully hardens and if a small amount is stuck in the grooves, I just used a staple to pick it out without damaging the problem I was trying to solve. Apparently not preparing the end that you want to mold actually helps release the JB Weld.
Apply the made-tool, orienting it so that it locks in the C-shaped groove. Now applying downward pressure while turning counterclockwise will remove the spring adjuster without difficulty. Assembly is the is the same way, but clockwise turning.
How it works:
I hope this helps.
With kind regards,
Thomas
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