ISOSAD: Monopoly Challenge

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I don't think I ever finished a game of Monopoly topside, I struggle to think how long it would take undewater!

I would suggest a custom made board - denser than the cardboard ones and larger too. Maybe a piece of perspex, with the markings drawn on, the relevant property cards stuck to the board and covered in laminate film/a clear sheet of perspex. Then lead weights could be attached to achieve negative bouyancy.

You would need to play this game in dry suits or in warm water as heat loss when lying around a board for a long time could be pronouced.

I would also suggest a container for Chance and Community chest cards, which can be opened, cards played and closed with the deck in after each usage.
 
Dice in an enclosed clear container with a flat bottom allows easy rolling.
Our dice rolling boxes are Pelican 1100 (*not* 1100i) cases, good to 50', and Otter Box 1000 cases (good to, what, 100'?). The Pelicans are perfectly adequate for this, as you'll have to be shallow to get some good dive time in. :wink:
Calculators in waterproof bags and a slate to write current bank balance with any transactions added/subtracted as they occur. No paper money needed.
Calculators in waterproof bags might be a bit hard to use, but you don't really need a calculator, anyway. A slate or magnadoodle board is good enough (since you're not going to be very narced at the shallow game depth). The idea of using a slate for bank balances works well -- just consider it "electronic banking", eh? :D
Laminated cards for Community Chest and Chance
I would also suggest a container for Chance and Community chest cards, which can be opened, cards played and closed with the deck in after each usage.
This can probably be best handled by the original ScubUNO card management system: rings. Laminate the cards and string them on "draw rings". When you get one, you flip the next card over and there you have it. For "get out of jail free" cards, a note could simply be added to the banking slate.

The way I do the waterproof lamination, I cut the corner off the cards, laminate them, cut them out (being sure to leave enough lamination to have a stable seal), and then punch the hole in the plastic at the missing corner. If you just laminate them and punch the hole through the card, you'll have water seepage through the paper, shortly destroying the card.

Magnetic player pieces and a stainless printed board. Board has rents, etc on the actual property spaces, and coded magnetic markers to indicate who owns a specific property eliminates need for property "Deeds"
I would suggest a custom made board - denser than the cardboard ones and larger too. Maybe a piece of perspex, with the markings drawn on, the relevant property cards stuck to the board and covered in laminate film/a clear sheet of perspex. Then lead weights could be attached to achieve negative bouyancy.
The magnetic idea is interesting, but ferromagnetic stainless is expensive and less corrosion resistant than the steels backplates are made of. Additionally, it would either be quite flimsy (and possibly sharp) or quite heavy. It'd likely work wonderfully for a pool game, but perhaps not so great for an open-water game. Having loose magnetic pieces might be a bit harder to manage, and you can lose them, perhaps too easily.

The clear plastic custom-made board sounds intriguing to me. With the property information "built in" to the properties themselves, life gets a little easier. Add in markings at the top for owner, houses/hotel, and mortgaged, and you've got the general requirements for each space. The Chance and Community Chest rings, and perhaps even the dice box, could be attached to the board by lanyards to prevent loss, even if playing a mid-water drift game.

Instead of pieces, you could use "grease pencils" to write directly on the plastic board. That would cover all the property information and player locations, and if the board was big enough, you could simply write the "bank" in the middle. If you wanted to save the state of the game at any point, you could just take a picture of it. (Put a star or something by the player who rolls first when you get back to depth.) If you're *really* into it, you could have a "team" game -- then if you don't get the same players back the next pool night, you could still continue the game. :biggrin:

You would need to play this game in dry suits or in warm water as heat loss when lying around a board for a long time could be pronouced.
A friend and I had a 2:47 (i.e. 167-minute) dive playing ScubUNO, Go Fish, and all sorts of other games (even a scuba variant of a gin-rummy-like game). It's not too bad if the temperature is warm enough. (The depth profile my computer logged from that dive is about the squarest dive profile I've ever seen. :biggrin:)
 
I wonder how well suction cups would work underwater for the playing pieces. Is it even possible to get one to stick to a surface when everything is wet?
Ber :lilbunny:
 
I wonder how well suction cups would work underwater for the playing pieces. Is it even possible to get one to stick to a surface when everything is wet?
They actually stick *quite* well underwater, at least as far as my experience has shown. It may depend somewhat on the type, but any decent one should work as a player piece.

(If they stick *too* well, you could always use the kind with the little "pull tab" near the lip to help you break the seal.)
 
Clayjar, For the pieces, you could use small colored bags with lead shot.
Make the board (Lexan) oversized with small trays for the houses and hotels (also made of lead). Like Mike said, dice in a box.
Property cards out of thin plastic with holes punched in them for retention on a carabineer. (Same for Chance and Community Chest cards).

I’m still thinking how to handle the money!
 
OK, once we are set with a conceptual sample I suggest the 1st try outs be in the Caymens or other neutral (read: warm & tropical) location. In fact, lets form an LLC, and call the trip "product development and research" for tax purposes.
 
I'd prefer Scubascrabble or Scubasequence... but I fully support the quest for the perfect underwater Monopoly game!

Why not just use the regular playing pieces... aren't they negatively buoyant? And dice (die?)- do they float? If they sink (or if someone can find sinking dice), then tossing them shouldn't be a problem. Might want to use a shaker (ala Parcheesi) and dump the dice rather than tossing.

Also- might want to modify the rules to make the game shorter. My sister and her friend once had a game that lasted a week... and they had to make up more money out of notebook paper...
 
I'd prefer Scubascrabble or Scubasequence... but I fully support the quest for the perfect underwater Monopoly game!
Scrabubble is definitely a game I'd love to play. You could even play it with the standard wooden pieces: just play inverted. :D

Why not just use the regular playing pieces... aren't they negatively buoyant?
The standard player pieces could be used, but you'd have to play on a platform. Using alternate player markers (physical, written, or whatever) would only be *required* for non-platform games.
And dice (die?)- do they float? If they sink (or if someone can find sinking dice), then tossing them shouldn't be a problem. Might want to use a shaker (ala Parcheesi) and dump the dice rather than tossing.
I have a full RPG-type set of brass dice, which most certainly *do* sink. You can also get steel dice. The problem isn't the buoyancy, however. The problem is the viscosity of the medium in which you're rolling them.

Water's viscosity is too high to get a roll with adequate "action". You tend to end up with more of a "flop" than a nice randomizing roll. Putting the dice in a small air-filled transparent-lidded box allows you to shake them just as you would above water. (Think of it as the "pop-o-matic bubble" concept, adapted for scuba gaming.

Also- might want to modify the rules to make the game shorter. My sister and her friend once had a game that lasted a week... and they had to make up more money out of notebook paper...
Hehe, you could always do something like "Monopoly: Lawsuit Edition", where you start with your cut of the bank, and instead of "rents" you have "lawsuit awards". Basically, the ethereal lawyers get all the proceeds, so you build up your properties so everyone else will lose their money faster.

It's basically the same concept as QuickWar. Once you take out recycling of the resources, you end up with a limited game which retains most of the general concept of the original while being necessarily shortened enough to be a viable scuba game.

The most important part of such a time-limiting conversion of Monopoly would be to find the right balance of money, properties, building, and time. You don't want to have too much money at the beginning, or you basically discard the building phase of the game. (It would then simply be a race to find the first to land on each space, which would be interesting, but at the cost of much of the Monopoly-ness of the game.) At the same time, with zero income from rents, you'd likely have to significantly increase the money earned for passing GO. (Basically, the amount of money you earn for passing GO should directly correlate with the mean length of the game -- the more you get, the more built-up the spaces must be before they are claiming an unsustainable amount of round-trip income.)

I'm not sure if anyone uses the "auction rule" form the book, but I don't think that'd be a good idea. For bankruptcies, I think I'd try the "reset to zero" concept. When a player goes bankrupt, all their properties revert to their original unsold state, with all buildings removed. That would allow for some aspect of a "mad rush to acquire", while still being compatible with the limited-funds nature of a losses-only "rent" replacement.

I'll have to pull out a Monopoly set and start play-testing the concept. I wonder if I could write a losses-only Monopoly simulator to make it easier to see what would happen given different GO-passing earnings. I may have to try that. (Even with very rudimentary choice algorithms, I should get at least a fairly reasonable result set for comparison, wouldn't you think?)
 
Okay, I've got all the Chance and Community Chest cards laminated, punched, and ringed. I also laminated all the properties to create the board, but I need a three-foot square of corrugated plastic to mount them on to make the board. (The hard part was cutting out the non-properties from the board and peeling all the cardboard off them in order to be able to include them in the "board" strips.)

Anyway, if anyone's wanting lamination, I can help with that now. (Business card size is perfect for the cards, by the way, with plenty of room for the holes without even trimming the cards.) If anyone wants Monopoly (or Risk or whatever) laminating work done, I can do up to 12"x18" (menu-size) and up to 7-mil laminate. It should be a lot cheaper to have me do it than to go to Kinko's or anything.
 
Okay, new question: How should I handle the housing situation?

Obviously, I can't use the houses as they come, since even the smallest eddy will toss them around like... well, like little plastic bits underwater. That leaves a few options:
  1. Interior weighting: For Connect Four, pennies were glued to the checkers. Gluing something into the cavities of the houses and hotels would look most normal, but it would provide the least weight.
  2. Attached "foundations": Gluing something into the cavity but not requiring it to be completely within the buildings would allow for more substantial weighting while still maintaining the buildings' integrity.
  3. Magnets: Unfortunately, these would require some ferromagnetic material in the board (which is simple corrugated plastic right now). You could run some steel runners through the holes, but then you have to worry about corrosion. The magnets would be sealed in epoxy resin inside the buildings.
  4. Suckers!: Suction cup devices might provide more stability... but only if they worked. I'm afraid they would not be reliable.
  5. Castings: Making forms of the buildings and then casting them from lead would provide the most density while maintaining the size and shape of the buildings. I have no experience with casting, so that's probably out.
  6. "This is a house.": Using pyramidal sinkers or other such fishing tackle would be easy, but it wouldn't look very Monopolish. Perhaps if they were painted green and red...
  7. Grease pencil: Having squares on the board that are simply marked with a grease pencil would be trivial, and it would work even in non-platform games (it may be required for a mid-water game), but it's the least true to the game.
  8. Physical attachments: Using bulldog clips, bolts, or some other physical attachment method would also work in non-platform games, but it'd be more work and require further modification of the game board (possibly including through-holes or attached hardware).

So, any brainstorms or aesthetic opinions? I think I'm probably in favor of option two, but I'm open for commentary, obviously.
 
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