Jamaica - West End (Samsara Cliffs) - suggestions

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exactly what is occurring......
It's no longer a top diving destination, which it was in the 70s and into the 80s. Too much construction damaged the reefs, too much fishing eliminated the larger fish life, caused anchor damage, etc. While Negril is not what it was, it has improved, and is the best diving on the island. It is no Bonaire or Cozumel, but Negril compares favorably with many other islands that have a lot of dive activity. Jamaica gets a bad rap from divers who remember how it used to be, or who have dived around once beautiful but now algae choked places near Ocho Rios and Montego Bay, two places to avoid. For a highly experienced diver the absence in Negril of large fish life, of walls seething with life, and spectacular currents may be boring, but the Throne Room and all the other famous Negril locations of days past are still there.

I think for a new diver Negril is hard to beat. Lovely gentle water conditions, lots of small fish, shoals of Royal Grammas under ledges, Angelfish on small coral heads, the occasional Spotted Drum or Jacknife Fish, sunken planes that once smuggled ganja, all kind a ting dere.

There are a heck of a lot of Jamaicans who can be extremely annoying as they surround you and try to sell you things. This is worse on the beach, and the better hotels keep them off the premises, but when off hotel premises you can feel like a target. These Jamaican Higglers are highly skilled. Do not be fooled into thinking that any of them are your instant friend. Do not get involved in conversations. Do not feel guilty for not buying anything. Do not "try me ting", do not "have a look".

The popularity of Negril attracted confidence hustlers from all over the island. Be aware, use caution, do not bring expensive jewelry, watches, etc. Do not try to make friends. Be polite, but do not stop to shop and have conversations with the locals. Rely on the hotel staff. Do not trust strangers. Make all arrangements directly with the dive shops or through hotel staff. Never hire your own guide.

There is a lot of sex tourism, essentially older women traveling there for the rent-a- dreds, handsome guys who look like Rastafarians but are really male prostitutes.

The island itself is bewitchingly beautiful. If the hotel offers a tour, I'd do it. For all its problems it has an unmatchable magic.

I lived there, off and on, for as long as a year at a time, in the old days. It's among the most beautiful places on earth.
 
It's no longer a top diving destination, which it was in the 70s and into the 80s. Too much construction damaged the reefs, too much fishing eliminated the larger fish life, caused anchor damage, etc. While Negril is not what it was, it has improved, and is the best diving on the island. It is no Bonaire or Cozumel, but Negril compares favorably with many other islands that have a lot of dive activity. Jamaica gets a bad rap from divers who remember how it used to be, or who have dived around once beautiful but now algae choked places near Ocho Rios and Montego Bay, two places to avoid. For a highly experienced diver the absence in Negril of large fish life, of walls seething with life, and spectacular currents may be boring, but the Throne Room and all the other famous Negril locations of days past are still there.

I think for a new diver Negril is hard to beat. Lovely gentle water conditions, lots of small fish, shoals of Royal Grammas under ledges, Angelfish on small coral heads, the occasional Spotted Drum or Jacknife Fish, sunken planes that once smuggled ganja, all kind a ting dere.

There are a heck of a lot of Jamaicans who can be extremely annoying as they surround you and try to sell you things. This is worse on the beach, and the better hotels keep them off the premises, but when off hotel premises you can feel like a target. These Jamaican Higglers are highly skilled. Do not be fooled into thinking that any of them are your instant friend. Do not get involved in conversations. Do not feel guilty for not buying anything. Do not "try me ting", do not "have a look".

The popularity of Negril attracted confidence hustlers from all over the island. Be aware, use caution, do not bring expensive jewelry, watches, etc. Do not try to make friends. Be polite, but do not stop to shop and have conversations with the locals. Rely on the hotel staff. Do not trust strangers. Make all arrangements directly with the dive shops or through hotel staff. Never hire your own guide.

There is a lot of sex tourism, essentially older women traveling there for the rent-a- dreds, handsome guys who look like Rastafarians but are really male prostitutes.

The island itself is bewitchingly beautiful. If the hotel offers a tour, I'd do it. For all its problems it has an unmatchable magic.

I lived there, off and on, for as long as a year at a time, in the old days. It's among the most beautiful places on earth.

Well said. I think you have to go to the island to really appreciate what you most poetically described.

Thanks for confirming it for us.
 
As far as diving, there are plenty of nice reefs and a few walls that are great dives. I love diving the Arches which are a series of swim-throughs plus a small airplane that was dropped there, though it was in bad shape last I saw. There is the Throne Room which is a cave that has what appears to be a chair formation and a hole in the ceiling you can swim in/out. Bloody Bay Deep has a great series of mounds or pinnacles and finger reefs to swim through and around plus an airplane "wreck" that is fun to check out. Green Island Wall and Orange Island Wall are both great areas with more fish life (last time I was there) than the shallower reefs around Negril. You are more likely to see pelagics along the outer walls where the reefs are mostly small fish and creatures.

Yes, it has been over fished and over developed, but overall, Negril diving is easy and great fun.

Has anyone been lately who can give a report on invasive lionfish? Last I was there 5 years ago they were showing up but the numbers weren't great yet. The divemasters had finally started hunting them to thin the population.
 

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