Looking for help de-burring stainless steel backplate

[holdfast]

Ok, here’s the story:

I bought (ordered) a backplate on sale thinking to have a couple separate rigs. I glanced at the plate, thought it looked fine and then packed it away because I was about to move.

Pulled it out recently to install a harness and in the process I discovered some sharp edges and at least one gnarly bur. It’s way too late to return it.

So this is completely on me for not looking it over carefully enough. But maybe someone can help me turn a negative into a positive. Seems like lots of Scubaboard users are handy, DIY types, so I figured it couldn’t hurt to ask.

Anyone with the tools and the know-how willing to round out sharp edges and knock down any burs? I’m in Northampton, MA. Long shot, but get in touch if you want to help and let me know what you’d charge for the service.

Thanks!

 

[lowviz]

Try this first: McMaster-Carr (go to the pocket size deburring tool)

 

[tbone1004]

@cool_hardware52 and @herman may be able to help. SS is a right PITA to work with

 

[tomfcrist]

I use a dremel

 

[herman]

The deburing tool is iffy on stainless, I have a couple of them.
As for getting someone else to do it, considering the cost of shipping both ways, I would suggest buying a cheap Dremel tool and a couple of abrasive bits. It may be a little more expensive but you will still have the tool after it's done. If you don't mind a little more work, a couple of simple hand files will do the job. It's not hard to do and messing up a little is not a big deal, not pretty but likely be covered and it won't hurt the BP.

 

[Altamira]

I do not know how common that type of manufacturing defect is found in SS backplates, but if the company you purchased it from is still in business, I would give them a call, explain the situation, and see what they are willing to do for you. Nothing lost but a phone call. Perhaps it was your fault for not checking it on arrival, but it was definitely their fault for producing a product that has to be fixed before using.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

The best bet just for one plate would be to buy a few hand files.
Get a 3/16” or 1/4” round file and a small 6” or 7” flat bastard file, get handles for both. And do yourself a favor and wear leather gloves.
You’ll need a sturdy vice. Wrap the plate in a towel or figure out a way to cushion the plate in the vice without chewing it up with the vice jaws.
Also wear ear plugs because the high pitched squeeling of filing stainless edges can be ear piercing.
Use the flat file obviously for the flat stretches, and the round file for the rounded sides of the slots. All you need to do is just knock the edges off. The edges that get the most contact with the webbing you might want to spend more time on.
If you want to round over the perimiter edges, use an 80 grit 4.5” flap disc on a 10,000 rpm electric mini grinder.
It’s not easy and it’s not quick, lots of soreness in hands and elbow joints...ask me how I know...

Have fun!

 

[lowviz]

I still say to start with a cheap deburring tool.

After a while, you get a feel for it. The material you are deburring lets you know. Pull too hard or fast on stainless and it will chatter and you have to file it. Do the same on certain plastics with a new tool and you will have a very nicely finished edge. You have to play with it before your hands get smart.

Very few people have been exposed to the cheap little tool I suggested. It doesn't remove large amounts of material, it knocks off burrs. There is a place for that if that is the only thing you want to do.

 

[abnfrog]

use a dremel tool I did my backplate to help a just the webbing , it still didn't work very well so I went with an adjuster from halyon.. it works well

 

[grf88]

I used a couple of grades of cloth backed abrasive tape after giving up with the Dremel. It was time consuming but worked well. Cut a 12 inch strip and use it like you were polishing your boots. All you need to do is break the edge so it doesn't cut the webbing.