looking for some tips/advice for new underwater photographer

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There has been a whole lotta discussion on how to get a perfectly clean and lubed o-ring here but remember that is only half the equation. The groove on the housing is every bit as important as the most perfectly prepared o-ring is of no value if there is crud in the groove. By cleaning and inspecting the groove first, the o-ring can be installed directly when it is ready.
 
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Regarding cleaning O-rings...if you think it is dirty enough to use a lint free cloth then fine, but something is wrong to get the o-ring that dirty.

Good point, although in counterpoint, I see the cleaning ritual as being a means to "reset" the system to a known-good configuration. As such, whenever I pull down my system to lube rings, they first get cleaned dry. This step also helps to inspect the O-rings for nicks and cuts.

Speaking of which, I want a better 'protective piece' myself...backside of the Ike 8" dome port for use during transport...so its time for me to follow my own advice and give Fred a call.

A quick update on this one: Fred agrees that what I was looking for is a good idea; he's going to work to make it happen. Probably be a couple of months before it is commercially available.


There has been a whole lotta discussion on how to get a perfectly clean and lubed o-ring here but remember that is only half the equation. The groove on the housing is every bit as important as the most perfectly prepared o-ring is of no value if there is crud in the groove. By cleaning and inspecting the groove first, the o-ring can be installed directly when it is ready.

A great observation of another part of the total system that had been overlooked. The overall 'clean everything first' applies before breaking out the O-ring grease.


-hh
 
I have only used my dc1200 a few times, but have decided that I like to do all the set up the night before the dive. A damp paper towl works fine, just have to watch for lint, but I haven't had much problem. The how to grease the O-ring post earlier works great! I also use a camera brush that I got at the local photo store to clean out the groves the O-ring seats in...works great! Keep it in fresh water when you're on the boat, and push all the buttons while rinsing it off before you open it if you can. If you have to open it while still on the boat, go up front out of the spray and dry it off as much as you can- then open the housing so that the camera 'falls out'..this will hopefully keep water out of the dry area. Change your battery/card and put the camera back in the same way. I also have heard it's a good idea to reformat your card everytime you put it back into the camera to avoid write problems. Now, I just need more practice shooting it!! Good luck
 
By all means try different strobe angles. Don't get LSS (Lazy Strobe Syndrome)! If your rig has a quick disconnect there are situations (eel in hole comes to mind) that require handholding the strobe away from your camera housing. Don't limit yourself.
 
If you follow all the cleaning advice you've been given on this thread then you should be fine, just do not clean in a rush make sure you have plenty of time.
If you are still unsure you could always use Leak Insure sachets that protect from small leaks and fogging www.leakinsure.co.uk I always use them.
 
Buy Martin Edge's book, The Underwater Photographer, 4th Edition, and study it.

This book along with many other photography books are included in an online book service Safari Books Online - Home. It can deliver the content to a PC, Kindle or Ipad. Its primarily used for business reference books so get your employer to buy a subscription in lieu of reduced training budgets. They will jump at it and then everyone benefits.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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