New UW camera system - G12, Ikelite, DS51 - Any suggestions on getting started?

[Rythmmaker]

I bought a Canon G12 last summer with the intention of using it underwater. I just ordered the Ikelite housing, and a DS51 strobe with the TTL cable and arm. I've never used an external strobe with an underwater camera before and it has been years since I last used my old Nikon 35mm with a Sunpak TTL strobe.

My thinking is this: The Ikelite is a bit larger than many of the other available housings, but I have had good experiences with Ike in the past (used to have a Nikon Coolpix and Ike housing - they went WAY above and beyond the call of duty to help me resolve a problem that wasn't even their fault), and both the housing and the strobe can take full advantage of true TTL metering. I thought about more expensive housings, and a better strobe - but these three together - camera, housing and strobe - seem to hit a nice sweet-spot in terms of capability vs cost. Simplicity in utilizing the rig is also a factor. Wide angle isn't as good as it could be, but I should be able to get some good macro pics, if my skills are honed.

When the new gear arrives, my plan is to get in the pool and experiment with it. Anyone familiar with this rig have any suggestions for a noob? Ideally I'd like to take an underwater photography class to learn how to get a good understanding of the capabilities of this set-up so I can concentrate on getting some good shots. I'm heading to the Bahamas on a LoB in mid-March so I have a little bit of time to get familiar with it before I depart.

But for now, if there are a few points that will just get me headed in the right direction I would appreciate the advice.

 

[a-marshal]

one thing to be aware of.. aiming the strobe..
you don't want to honk on the adjusters too hard on the surface, the Ike system moves OK but for best results in the water I find it needs to be just a bit sloppy when dry. The strobe needs to move because as you move between subjects you will probably want to re position it, if it is pointed correctly to light something in close-up it wont be positioned correctly to light something even 3 or 4 feet away.
OH ..
Don’t limit yourself to testing in the water, before I ever got mine wet I ran through hundreds of shots with objects set up on the dinning room table, testing the different features and modes is easier when you can take notes in the dry (it is also easier to read the screen).

 

[acooper]

Pretty much what I have been diving lately, with the exception of an Ultralight arm to put the strobe on the Ike tray. It is bulky, not too bad for me, but then I am a fairly big guy.

I love the shots I have been getting, this is my first rig with proper TTL via cable. So much less guesswork.

My biggest gripe is the difficulty in one handing the rig. One hand to brace against the swell or current, one for the camera. I have big hands, and can just do it, but it does get tiring. Last weekend I dove with the tray reversed in an attempt to help this issue, a bit better, but it still needs work. I may need to spend some time in the machine shop to extend the shutter lever. It want to be able to reach it easily from the handle.

I second the bit about the dining room table. My cats now disappear when they see the strobe!

 

[Rythmmaker]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions and great comments. Looking forward to getting started with it...

 

[Hetland]

I typically shoot ISO 80, AV Mode with my G11. For most shots I shoot zoomed in just the tiniest bit, and have the aperture wide open (lower "f" number). Obviously you want to turn on macro mode for focusing close in. This simply tells the camera to look closer for a focus point.

The camera is poor for wide angle, and I usually shoot wide without a strobe, ISO is set higher, sometimes on auto. You can get decent shots as high as 800iso, which compensates some for motion blur on ambient-light shots.

Practice your half-push. Push half way to engage auto focus, then hold, and as still as you can, press the rest of the way to trigger the shutter. Kind of like firearms training. You want to be stone-cold still for that last bit of push on the button. It helps to practice underwater, so you can integrate your breathing with your shutter work, but any practice is better than none.

 

[charlesml3]

Lots of good advice here. The G12/Ikelite/DS51 combo is much more suited for macro than it is for wide-angle. It's just the nature of how the G12 zooms. I usually shoot in Av or M depending on what I'm after. I shoot a LOT of macro. Keep in mind that when you get in really close, the DOF will get very, very shallow. So shallow that the eyes may be in focus and the dorsal fin isn't. I tend to really push up the aperture to get it deep enough.

Some shots from my last trip to Coz: Cozumel 2012 - a set on Flickr

-Charles

 

[Hetland]

Keep in mind that when you get in really close, the DOF will get very, very shallow. So shallow that the eyes may be in focus and the dorsal fin isn't. I tend to really push up the aperture to get it deep enough.

+1

You can also get a nice darkened background by closing the aperture (bigger "f" number). This is nice if you have a not-so-nice background, or you want to isolate your subject. The following shot was taken in the morning, with decent ambient light, but strobe positioning, and a small aperture (f8) create a darkened background:

 

[mjh]

Here is a basic Strobe Positioning tutorial that may help http://opticaloceansales.com/files/OOS-Strobe-Positioning.pdf

Have fun!