O-ring check
- Thread starter alo100
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SparticleBrane
Contributor
I always bring a spray bottle that has water + shampoo (or some other soapy solution) in it. I pressurize the system, then spray--any leaks will appear as bubbles. Note that all points where o-rings are used are sprayed. This includes all 1st and 2nd stages, power inflator, the elbow joint where the corrugated host connects to the BC, the tank neck--the list goes on.
It's a fairly quick run through--just a quick spray or two at each location and a look-see to see if it's bubbling up.
As a general rule if extra rubber is sticking out then it might mean that the o-ring isn't seated correctly.
It's a fairly quick run through--just a quick spray or two at each location and a look-see to see if it's bubbling up.
As a general rule if extra rubber is sticking out then it might mean that the o-ring isn't seated correctly.
ScubaJorgen
Contributor
The o-ring itself should look smooth. If any parts are coming off or holes, tears or cracks are visible, then it is time to replace the o-ring. If the o-ring bulges out of the seating, then it cannot be doing its job (closing) and will blow.
Apply your regulator as the 1st thing when arriving at the dive site. Then put on your suit and rest of stuff. In this way you give your o-ring time to burst if it is damaged or bulging out. You really would not like this to happen at 90 feet/30 m depth. :xyxnervou
I would *not* :no recommend using shampoo to check the o-ring, because shampoo chemicals may solve the o-ring grease or deteriorate the o-ring itself. If applied to the regulators, it may also affect the o-rings and stuff inside the regulator.
I would not get nervous if tiny (mm sized) bubbles occur at an o-ring of your regulator (I would get if it occurs at the o-ring of my camera housing, but that is another story). Just keep an eye on it (and your manometer, but of course you always do
) and finish the dive. Be sure to replace the o-ring.
Apply your regulator as the 1st thing when arriving at the dive site. Then put on your suit and rest of stuff. In this way you give your o-ring time to burst if it is damaged or bulging out. You really would not like this to happen at 90 feet/30 m depth. :xyxnervou
I would *not* :no recommend using shampoo to check the o-ring, because shampoo chemicals may solve the o-ring grease or deteriorate the o-ring itself. If applied to the regulators, it may also affect the o-rings and stuff inside the regulator.
I would not get nervous if tiny (mm sized) bubbles occur at an o-ring of your regulator (I would get if it occurs at the o-ring of my camera housing, but that is another story). Just keep an eye on it (and your manometer, but of course you always do
) and finish the dive. Be sure to replace the o-ring.
SparticleBrane
Contributor
While I agree that shampoo or whatever other soapy chemicals could destroy the grease on the o-rings or the o-rings itself, it stands to reason that if the o-ring seal is good, then it won't really get down inside. If there ARE bubbles then I replace the o-ring immediately, so there really isn't any worry about it.
I don't spray "on" the regulators--just at the connection point on the low pressure hose.
This is just an extra step I take; I also do bubble checks in the water.
I don't spray "on" the regulators--just at the connection point on the low pressure hose.
This is just an extra step I take; I also do bubble checks in the water.
I do my kit up first when I arrive at the dive site or getting ready for a dive at a resort. I do a full equipment test and check if everything works okay, then I close the pillar valve on the cylinder but leave the low pressure and intermediate pressure hoses pressurized so that when I don my gear on the boat or when ready to enter a shore dive I can just open the pillar valve again without introducing new pressure stress to the O-ring or any other equipment. Any problems would have had enough time to occur while I got into my semi-dry, which takes a bit of attention, and completed other preparations like our pre-dive briefing etc. This way I can deal with any problems while still on shore or on the boat before the backward roll/giant stride.
I was sitting next to a guy on a pontoon boat dive once and as he got his gear donned next to me and his buddy opened the pillar valve, the new pressure was just enough to finally make one of his intermediate pressure hoses rupture where it connects to the first stage. A small piece of rubber from the tubing hit me on the soft skin in my neck left 'n nice red welt that stung like hell. Needless to say, the poor blighter had to sit out the dive on the boat getting green.
I was sitting next to a guy on a pontoon boat dive once and as he got his gear donned next to me and his buddy opened the pillar valve, the new pressure was just enough to finally make one of his intermediate pressure hoses rupture where it connects to the first stage. A small piece of rubber from the tubing hit me on the soft skin in my neck left 'n nice red welt that stung like hell. Needless to say, the poor blighter had to sit out the dive on the boat getting green.
ScubaJorgen
Contributor
ReefMongoose:
Gee, man! How did you explain the red mark in your neck to your girlfriend? She must be from another planet to believe the piece-of-flying-rubber story...
To be serious: there is one BIG drawback to your method of rigging: it is easy to forget to open your valve before you jump in. You find out after a few breaths of air. And that happens when you jump in with negative buoyancy, because of the strong currents...
Incredible, the green guy next to you must have used garden hose....
rottielover
Contributor
I like the advice of setting up your kit and open the valve while you get into your wetsuit/dry .etc
When my wife and I were on our 3rd OW checkout dive, we were sitting in the "staging area" with our gear setup and ready to go, and her tank o-ring blew after about 10 min of sitting there doing nothing... Good thing it happened on the "bench" instead of out in the water, you have enough going on in the water than to have to "blow" a dive cause of a failed o-ring. I'm sure if it would have happend U/W we just would have "called" the dive and used our Octo skills to get up, then again, I suppose it would be possible for some water to get into your first stage that way, and in that case I was always told that you have to get your reg serviced should that happen.
I like the soapy water spray idea, it's the same way I was taught to look for Natural Gas leaks, spray on some soapy water and look for bubbles...
When my wife and I were on our 3rd OW checkout dive, we were sitting in the "staging area" with our gear setup and ready to go, and her tank o-ring blew after about 10 min of sitting there doing nothing... Good thing it happened on the "bench" instead of out in the water, you have enough going on in the water than to have to "blow" a dive cause of a failed o-ring. I'm sure if it would have happend U/W we just would have "called" the dive and used our Octo skills to get up, then again, I suppose it would be possible for some water to get into your first stage that way, and in that case I was always told that you have to get your reg serviced should that happen.
I like the soapy water spray idea, it's the same way I was taught to look for Natural Gas leaks, spray on some soapy water and look for bubbles...
BrianV
Contributor
I always carry extra orings because I've been screwed before. I give it a quick visual and if it's bad, I replace it with one of my own o-rings. No biggy, you can buy 20 o-rings for like $2.
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