Phoenix Pre Build Cleaning

[HenrikBP]

I'm taking my DAAM apart to install a new Phoenix nozzle. In the instructions it says to clean up threads and passages with wood tooth picks and lint free rags.

I've gotten it pretty clean with those methods, but there are still small dark specks of buffing compound in the threads that I can't remove with the picks.

Anyone know of a type of cleaner that would loosen these last bits?

Thanks

Henrik
(when I've used buffing compound before I've used solvent to clean off metal objects, but am hesitant to hit breathing equipment with Thinner or similar)

 

[halocline]

Henrik, does this mean that the new phoenix nozzles are in?

 

[Nemrod]

You could use another quick vinegar bath or an ultrasonic bath in Simple Green/distilled water dilute or a can of Dust Off or other dry compressed air to blow it clean.

This is not final assembly for a Saturn V, just get it clean and put it together.

I have used MEK to clean "unknown" goo from my regs. I thoroughly clean it after the solvent application--on metal parts only.

N

 

[DA Aquamaster]

I have used modern cleaners guarenteed not to remove chrome and all of them are very good at not removing chrome - but they pretty much suck at removing heavy deposits and corrosion.

For difficult regs, I will use a very dilute (3-3.5%) solution of muratic acid and it works nicely after a 5 minute soak - but soak it in a soda bath (baking soda and water) when you are done then rinse thoroughly with hot water.

Blue Gold cleaner works well in an ultrasound cleaner and simple green also works, although the newer Simple Green Crystal is better for breathing equipment applications and takes less rinsing. Either of those cleaners and a toothbrush will go along way in cleaning a reg before you have to consider brigning out the big guns.

 

[Luis H]

In addition to white vinegar, the only other thing I normally use to clean regulators is some regular white tooth paste with a tooth brush. I donÃÕ add any water until I am ready to rinse off. It seems to clean all the surfaces without doing any harm to the metal.

Any abrasives on regular modern tooth paste are very mild and I donÃÕ over do it.

IT works well for cleaning all the threads and it also easily removes the stains often found on the horns.

Another advantage of tooth paste is that I very comfortable knowing that it is non-toxic.

 

[HenrikBP]

Henrik, does this mean that the new phoenix nozzles are in?

Sorry Mattboy; I bought my Phoenix some months ago. I got the feeling at the time that it was one of the last of that batch. I just haven't had the time to focus on the rebuild until now.

Larry, Luis; thanks for the advice. I've used Salt-X and Simple Green soaks for a few old regs.

I'll give toothpaste, maybe Simple Green and a cut down toothbrush a try.

Thanks again

Henrik

 

[Nemrod]

Y'all hang loose on those Phoenix and get yourself in line per the process and you too will become a Phoenix diver. VDH always come through or does it's best. That is all that can be asked.

N

 

[herman]

..........................................................
Another advantage of tooth paste is that I very comfortable knowing that it is non-toxic.

And your mouthpiece is minty fresh.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Henrik, does this mean that the new phoenix nozzles are in?

My understanding is that the company machining them for Bryan will have them done and ready to ship the week of February 8th, so I'd expect them from Bryan a week or two after that.

 

[HenrikBP]

I filed down an old toothbrus to just 2 rows of bristles so it would fit inside the HP and LP ports. I also cut the bristles down short enough to fit into the ports without scrunching too much, while still maintaining good pressure on the threads.

Gave the nozzle a good soak in Simple Green and then brushed out the threads and the central hole in the nozzle. Then wiped down everything with a lint-free rag. Looks great.

Now on to build up the high pressure block. From what I've been reading - here and on VDH - it's similar to the Aqualung/USD Conshelf, and I have a manual for the Conshelf XIV. Am I correct in thinking that I can follow the instructions for the Conshelf XIV for the high pressure block?

Also, length of the pin; 1.33"?

Thanks

Henrik