Phuket Updates

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sundance

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Hello dear forumers.
Recently i've just led a few divers up to Phuket over the holidays here in Singapore. Here's a brief update on Phuket for your reference.

Phuket lies on the West coast of southern Thailand, faces out to the Andamans Seas, as are The Similans on the North, hence diving off Phuket is sometimes described as Andaman diving, or South Siam diving. Phuket is about 7 hours from the Similans, 5 hours from Hin Daeng/Hin Muang, and 3 hours from Phi Phi islands by liveaboard diveboats; hence with its International airport and luxury hotels, Phuket is the perfect staging point for liveaboard and daytrip diving in the region. Phuket faces 6 months of wind and waves from the West (April-September), and 6 months from the East (October-March). Since from the East the wind is pretty much sheltered against the Thai mainland, resulting in somewhat calmer seas and the period also coincides with the European harsh winter (its main clientele) hence Phuket has a high season during this period. During low season (April-September), you'll get frequent 3-5 metre swells and occasional monsoon rains coming in from the Andamans, hence most dive operators will quit their Similans dive operations (7 hours from Phuket by dive boats) and some operators will send their liveaboards around the Peninsular into The Gulf of Thailand (Samui, Koh Tao, Chumpon) where the Europeans spend their summer holidays. Alternatively Phuket's daytrip divesites are pretty much diveable all year round. We did 5 days of daytrip diving, covering most of the accessible divesites of Phuket, and we had dry, sunny weather throughout our whole 14-day stay with only occasional showers in the late night. Here's a brief account compared to my knowledge of Phuket's sites from before the Tsunami.


Racha Yai (divesites: Lucy Reef, Staghorn Reef, Scubacat wreck(D34m), Dolittle Reef, Fantasy Wreck(D24m), Homerun):
This is the best time to dive Racha Yai as we dive off the East Coast with the most diverse diving and divesites. During the high seasons, every operator will crowd into Bungalow Bay in the West; since waves start coming from the East. Since it is the nearest diveable island to Phuket and its East Coast offers all level of diving, it is also considered the best training site off Phuket. But the marine life it offers is nothing our Malaysian training sites can compare. Vis was a good 15m-20m throughout. We started the dive with a warm welcome from some red tooth triggers, indian triggers and powderblue triggers. At both Staghorn and Homerun, we spotted schools of fusiliers, bluelined snappers, schooling goat fishes, moorish idols, squirrelfishes, soldierfishes, angels, banners and butterfly fishes over unbroken rows of staghorn corals from 12m-24m with occasional Coral head and boulders. Hiding under the staghorns we spotted lots of groupers, malabar, blue spot and hexagonal; as well as coral trouts. We also spotted numerous common lionfishes, numerous giant morays, numerous puffers and porcupines fishes, lots of splendid garden eels, 2 huge bearded scorpoinfish, 3 octopuses, a cuttlefish, 1 peacock mantis shrimp, 1 stonefish and a common pipefish. At the fantasy wreck, everything looks intact with its shoals of bluelined snappers, and the hole at the stern where you can look into the propellers lots of glass fishes were crowding its hull. Old scar-face, a resident giant moray had grown to a huge 2 over metres and lost its' scar on the lower jaw. It's 2 banded boxer shrimp consorts are still there, but the numerous durban dancing shrimps had since disappeared under the wreck's hull. Another instructor onboard had told us a huge marble ray had made the wreck it's home but we didnt managed to spot it. Most times last year over homerun we can see a big school of chevron barracudas and yellow fin tunas screaming pass overhead but we didnt see any this trip. In their place we saw some jacks and big eye trevallies. Over the shallows ending the dive, we saw lots of wrasses, spendour, rainbow, birdnose, yellowtail, lots of damsels and at least 3 species of anemone fishes (false clown, clark and tomato). Last year, Dolittle reef is also a great site to look for the occasional bumphead parrot, peacock solefish, striped catfish and the rare Comet longfin. But we didnt get to dive the Dolittle hence no chance to spot them. A gentle drift dive in clear, shallow waters, Racha Yai is the best checkout dive for the occasional divers. Though, divers should keep an eye out for titan triggers in bay 2 as they've been known to chase divers.

King Cruiser Wreck (D32m)
The King Cruiser is a 88m long car ferry from Phuket to Phi Phi which sank in May 1997 under dubious reasons. There were no casualties, all 364 passengers were rescued; hence dont expect to find any skeletons. There're no cars on Phi Phi too hence dont expect to find any cars. There were four suspected reasons, and the details i leave it to your diveguide if you were ever to dive this wreck. The captain is still remanded in Bangkok prison, due for release next year. This wreck lie in the open sea East of Phuket, about 800m from Shark point. Hence over the low season, 2-3 metres surface swell, and a constant moderate current is inevitable. There are currently 2 mooring line from the stern and the bow. Since the wreck lies at a max 32m and the attractions at a average 25m in moderate current, this divesite is recommended for certified Advance open water divers and above only. In eight years since she sank, its already fully covered in barnacles, clams, and hard corals. It's car deck and funnels had since collapsed hence lots of marine life take shelter in its wreckage. Snappers, fusiliers, groupers, and larger predators such as schools of jacks, trevallies and barracudas. Wrecks are also a magnet to lionfishes, scorpionfishes and stonefishes. Before the dive, i promised my divers i'll spot for them at least 5 lionfishes, 5 raggy scorpionfishes and 1 stonefish. After the dive, asides successfully spotting the stonefish, they lost count of the lionfishes and scorpionfishes, definitely more than 10. The highlight of this wreck include its huge propellers at 32m where there are resident bamboo sharks (i didnt bring my guys there as we have a 'huge consumption' chap), the top deck toilets, car deck (penetratable for the experienced and qualified divers, there's a resident banded seasnake and mimic octopus, which again we didnt go in), the funnel and the wheel house where there was a resident honeycomb moray last year, but we didnt see her on this trip. Vis was a limited 8m with sediments as is the norm with most wrecks. On good days you can get 12m-15m vis. Overall the King Cruiser is a satisfying deep wreck dive for recreational divers and the perfect site for wreck specialty training.

Shark Point
Shark point, or Hin Musang in Thai, is so named after the marine sanctary of numerous leopard sharks lying in the sand all around the reef, from a depth of 22m to breaking the surface of a 2 metre barren outcrop. From Sharkpoint 1, south of the barren outcrop, is a series of coral reef about 30 metres apart, so named sharkpoint 1 to 6 with the first 3 beautifully encrusted with soft tree corals and sharkpoint 5 and 6 being small coral heads. There used to be a mooring line West of Shark point 1, now the mooring line is on Shark point 2. When i first dived this site in the mid-nineties, you can easily count 3 to 4 leopard sharks on a single dive. But i guess its fame had taken its tolls since, with the number of divers easily reaching 100 on any given days in the high season. Nowadays if you're lucky you'll get to see a leopard shark laying in the sand at shark point 1 or between the sand of Shark point 1-3. We had been lucky, Vis was a decent 12 metres and on our dive, our group did spotted a grown 2-metre leopard shark basking in the sand. Otherwise Sharkpoint is also famous for its soft tree corals in a multitude of colours, orange, pink, red, white, blue, violet. Huge, vibrant gregonian seafans, sea whips and barrel sponges decorated the pinnacles. Hence attracting schools of tropical reef fishes, wrasses, bulleyes, moorish idols, squirrelfishes, soldierfishes, angels, banners, butterfly fishes, fusiliers, snappers, groupers, jacks and trevallies. We also spotted banded boxer shrimps, cuttlefish, squids, 2 common hawkbill turtles, bearded scorpionfishes, up to 4 species lionfishes (dwarf, russel, spotfin and common), 3 species of barracudas (chevron, picked-handle and great) and 3 species morays (yellow edge, undulated and white eye), this trip we didnt managed to spot the rarer zebra moray which i used to see here last year. South west of Sharkpoint 1 there used to be a resident yellow tigertail seahorse and a harlequin ghost pipefish but now they're nowhere to be found.
 
Koh Doc Mai
Koh means island while Doc Mai means flower. "Flower Island" is a limestone islet rising vertically out of the sea. It lies east of Phuket before Shark point hence ideally the first or last dive to/back from King Cruiser or Shark point. This dive site is mainly a wall dive to 30 metres, with a hard coral staghorn reef sloping down to the west. Again now is the best time to dive this site as when waves comes from the west, the stiff east wall provides the best sea fans and coral infestation, macro life and 2 caves at 20m and 18m. Dive guides here name them cave 1 and 2 from North to South of the East wall. Koh Dok Mai is famed for its tiny resident yellow seahorses and ghost pipefish. Especially in cave 2, off the cavern wall at 9m and 12m we never fail to spot them. Unfortunately on this trip, we have been told the seahorses and ghost pipefish has not been seen since the tsunami. We've been told recently there's a frogfish between cave 1 and 2, at about 15m; as well as a resident leopard shark off the sand. Our group managed to spot the leopard shark but we missed the frogfish. Vis was a disappointing 5-8m with lots of seditments, but nevetheless the ample encrustation of the sea fans, sea whips, barrel sponge, colourful hard and soft corals are captivating. We also spotted numerous lionfishes, bearded scorpionfishes, and schools of jacks, trevallies and barracudas swirling and feeding on the glassfishes taking shelter among the corals on the wall. Among the numerous crevices there's also a huge variety of invertebrates here, such as lobster, crabs, shrimps, zigzag clams, pencil urchins, oysters, squid, and white-eyed moray eels. Koh Doc Mai is no doubt one of the top macro scuba diving sites in Phuket. Last year in October, fellow Singaporean divers spotted a whale shark in Koh Doc Mai. We had no such luck then. But personally out of my numerous dives here, i'll ever spotted tawnry nurse sharks, great barracudas, rainbow runners, cobias and even a rare clown triggerfish. Clown triggers are aplenty in the Similans but not none to show up around here, hence it was a pleasant surprise then. Koh Doc Mai never failed to surprise me.

Racha Noi (divesites: North tip, South tip, Pinnacles, Banana Reef and Hin Chan)
Compared with its sister Racha Yai, Racha Noi is equally famous for clear waters up to 25-30m vis comparable to the Similans. This divesite is generally recommended for experienced Advanced Open Water divers only as the dives all averaged at 25-27m with a max depth of 40m recreational limit. Current here range from moderate to strong and teacherous downward current. Unlike Racha Yai, its divesites are large granite boulders undulating from the bays down into the depths. In crystal clear waters we 'fly' through its numerous swimthroughs and valleys. At banana reef, the landscape of sparse coral heads and patches in-between sloping sand where garden eels and rays inhabited; it reminded me strongly of the divesite Garden Eels of the Similans, with the same crystal clear waters and panaromic landscape. Off the sand we spotted a swimming leopard shark and a hawkbill turtle. And in the coral patches, we spotted the usual tropical reef suspects like glassfishes, fusiliers, groupers, snappers and giant morays. The highlight of the dive, at one point we were surrounded in a huge school of barracudas forming a mini whirlpool. Somehow, there's a eerie silent compared to Racha Yai's bustling reef life; there are smaller schools of marine life keeping to their sparse coral patches and in the deep blue waters around, only silent prevail. This is when the large pelagics occasionally show up. Racha Noi is also known for its frequent visits from mantas and whale shark. Due to the strong 3-metre waves and current on the day we dive, we did not visited the South tip or pinnacles, places known for the large stuffs. Yet one of us, is lucky enough to spot a passing manta ray, which lasted only seconds, hence the rest of us missed it. We had to make do with the occasional tunas and a great barracuda that all spotted. Nevetheless for a sampling of the world famous Similans, Racha Noi is definitely not to be missed.


On land, a quick visit to the West Coast beaches; Patong, Karon, Kata, and you will see no tell tale signs of the tsunami at all. The beach watersport, street vendors, bars and restaurants are thriving with a vengence. The Thais are a optimistic, resilient people indeed, except a few opportunistic street vendor trouting photos and videos of the tsunami which is a painful memory; the rest of the people we met have since put it behind and moved on. Another quick check with local guides and hotel staffs; says that flights are filling up and occupancies average 70%. I'm sure Phuket tourism will bounce back again in the next high season, when the Similans open.

I hope the above is useful to forumers who intended to dive Phuket this coming season. Not forgetting the Similans..

Cheers :)
 
sundance:
Phuket lies on the West coast of southern Thailand, faces out to the Andamans Seas, as are The Similans on the North, hence diving off Phuket is sometimes described as Andaman diving, or South Siam diving. Phuket is about 7 hours from the Similans, 5 hours from Hin Daeng/Hin Muang, and 3 hours from Phi Phi islands by liveaboard diveboats; hence with its International airport and luxury hotels, Phuket is the perfect staging point for liveaboard and daytrip diving in the region. Phuket faces 6 months of wind and waves from the West (April-September), and 6 months from the East (October-March). Since from the East the wind is pretty much sheltered against the Thai mainland, resulting in somewhat calmer seas and the period also coincides with the European harsh winter (its main clientele) hence Phuket has a high season during this period. During low season (April-September), you'll get frequent 3-5 metre swells and occasional monsoon rains coming in from the Andamans, hence most dive operators will quit their Similans dive operations (7 hours from Phuket by dive boats) and some operators will send their liveaboards around the Peninsular into The Gulf of Thailand (Samui, Koh Tao, Chumpon) where the Europeans spend their summer holidays. Alternatively Phuket's daytrip divesites are pretty much diveable all year round.

Mostly true Sundance....certainly Phuket is ready for tourists, damage to reefs from the tsunami was minimal, with a couple of sites in the Similan Islands being damaged. The diving in all areas this last season was as good as ever, some said better.

Your seasons are a little out. The best time to come is November - April, indeed April is maybe the best month, especially if you want big fish. 3-5m swells are not at all frequent, 3m is big. Most operators do indeed stop Similan trips from May-October, though May can be a good month depending when the weather changes, and October tends to be OK in the 2nd half of the month. July and August also tend to be pretty good. The worst of the weather, though it's never that bad, comes at the start and end of the low season. Sometime around mid May/end May/early June and sometime around September/early November. There are always a few who risk going out in the summer to Similan, and I have been and had great trips, but there is a risk of the trip being cancelled. Do any boats go to Koh Tao now? I don't think so..I know a couple tried it, like Ocean Rover and Queen Scuba, but it was a flop. Many do head for Indonesia - areas like Sulawesi and Bali/Komodo are popular - boats such as Mermaid 1, Ocean Rover, Panunee, Aqua One, Anggun head down there. Others try to run "local" liveaboards around Phuket and Phi Phi or even to Hin Daeng if the weather allows. Day trips continue year round.

Right, I need breakfast. Hope you'll be in Phuket soon then Sundance!
 
Sunrise:
Do any boats go to Koh Tao now? I don't think so..I know a couple tried it, like Ocean Rover and Queen Scuba, but it was a flop. !

This year there are a few boats that moved to Gulf of Thailand side. I was on one in June but can't think of the name right now. At the pier, there were 3-4 similar boats there. Not a bad way to dive Koh Tao, how else would I hit Chumporn pinnacle, Sail Rock and Southwest Pinnacle in one day :)
However I agree that most of the bigger, more luxury boats prefer to head out to Indonesia rather than stay in Thailand.
 
Sunrise:
Your seasons are a little out. The best time to come is November - April, indeed April is maybe the best month, especially if you want big fish. 3-5m swells are not at all frequent, 3m is big. Most operators do indeed stop Similan trips from May-October, though May can be a good month depending when the weather changes, and October tends to be OK in the 2nd half of the month. July and August also tend to be pretty good.

Cant say i agree there, from my observation when i was Daytrip tourleader diving everyday for 2 years consecutively in Phuket, and that last aug this year i was there again, July/August can be quite rough time to time. And yes, 3m is big. I saw the Reef Cruiser's propeller when climbing back onboard the boat.

Sunrise:
Do any boats go to Koh Tao now? I don't think so..I know a couple tried it, like Ocean Rover and Queen Scuba, but it was a flop.

Among others, MV Harmony, MV Starfish is there now, working as chartered daytrips. They're doin so well they're setting up a branch in Samui. :)

Sunrise:
Hope you'll be in Phuket soon then Sundance!

Yup, i'll be up again mid-Sept, next week, with another brunch of students. Thereafter staying to freelance the season. :)
 
Cant say i agree there, from my observation when i was Daytrip tourleader diving everyday for 2 years consecutively in Phuket, and that last aug this year i was there again,
It is not a matter of agrreing/disagreeing, simply of wind directions. Normally the wind changes to East in October, quite often at the beginning of the Month, and back to West again in May. So the regarding conditions best months for diving really are November-April.

Harmony and Starfish are as far as I know the only Phuket boats operating in the Gulf at the moment. Mainly because of the lack of guests after the tsunami they moved, and most probably White & Blue will change it main focus of operation to Samui. The Harmony will go back to the Similans again though. They will probably open an office on Samui, but not because they are doing so well, but because of a lack of success here.
 
Starfish - you mean that little sailing boat, right?

White and Blue should just stick to one place instead of trying to open everywhere and not doing very well anywhere!

I guess what I meant was, no decent liveaboards go to the East coast.

Weather in April rocks if you like the heat. The Summer months can be bouncy, but 5m swells? 3m I would say is the worst I have seen. And many days are very very nice.

Weather in Phuket
 
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