As I sit here beginning to write this on my last day in Papua New Guinea, I feel a world away from home and a world away from where I first arrived in PNG, Port Moresby. Feeling a world away from home is understandable as Im about as far away I could get without starting to return around the globe. Feeling a world away from Port Moresby is much less so, as Im only a short ferry and van ride away here at Loloata. Ending my trip at this island resort has given me a chance to slow down the diving pace before the long trek home as well as to think back over my last 3 weeks. It also has allowed me to avoid a long layover in Port Moresby, which truly does deserve its horrendous reputation. Loloata also offers some very good diving in its own right, but theres not much else to do but walk around the island or read if youre not in the water. The food is very good and plentiful and the people are pleasant. But Im getting ahead of myself
Time to go back to the beginning.
Travel Logistics
The route I took to get to PNG was most certainly not the most direct. However, I had lots of United frequent flyer miles to burn and wanted to use them to get as far as I could in First Class seats. Thus, my trip would take me to Singapore as my jumping off spot to my Air Niugini flights to PNG. From the east coast, coming in via Tokyo or even Fiji would have been preferable, as would flying from Australia. Flying in First Class in a newly configured 747 wasnt too shabby of a choice, though, and you cant beat free tickets! As an added benefit, I also had access to the ANA and United First Class lounges along the way and managed to shower in Tokyo, Singapore, and Chicago on this trip oh, and of course in PNG. ;-) Given that the flights on Air Niugini alone werent inexpensive (economy class from Singapore to Hoskins ran me over $1600, even booked well in advance) the free seats to Singapore definitely helped eased the financial pain of the trip. In any event, getting there and back took days; Singapore to Tokyo was about 6 hours; Tokyo was Chicago is about 10-11 hours; Singapore to Port Moresby was about 6 hours. And then there was the time difference to deal with!
Since Ive always just passed through Singapore without ever leaving the airport I decided to do two and a half days on the front end there this time around. Hotel prices can be relatively high so I checked around and got a great deal at the Singapore Marriott using Priceline. I paid hundreds less than the rack rate even on just the few days. The Marriott is in an excellent location, close to shopping and transportation. If you stay there, be sure to ask for a room away from the construction. For Gold members they offer a terrific executive lounge with breakfast, cocktails and appetizers, and free Internet. There was also a nice pool. I hit all the regular tourist spots in Singapore, had some excellent food and spent an afternoon on the great tourist buses they offer for a reasonable price. I think I ate more chicken on this trip overall than Ive eaten ever, but I have to say I really got hooked on the chicken and rice cooked with chicken broth. Although it sounds bland, freshly ground chili and garlic sauce really add to it and I liked that I could season it to my taste. Singaporeans eat a fair number of chickens themselves if the number of chickens hung from racks in vendor stalls was any indication! On the way home, arriving in Singapore in the evening and leaving in the morning, I arranged to stay at one of the airports transit hotels. (Definitely reserve ahead of time if you go, and make sure you have a confirmation number.) The airport has more than its share of food and shopping choices, along with a 24-hour free movie theatre and other forms of entertainment and relaxation. Most of the shopping I did was just window shopping, but I did compare prices on a couple of camera lenses and found I could get them for the same price or less in the States (along with a US warranty). I always felt safe in Singapore and was always comfortable walking by myself. It was easy and convenient to exchange currency at any of the many authorized locations, and credit cards were routinely accepted as well.
My Air Niugini flight to Port Moresby was an unexpectedly pleasant experience, the first of all four Economy class flights on this airline incurring no additional baggage charges. (Note: Divers do get an extra baggage allowance for dive gear, but I was well over the published limit.) The planes were 767 wide-body jets, and I was lucky enough to have the exit rows. The flight attendants were generally cheerful and helpful and a full meal was served on the outbound overnight flight as well as the return flight to Singapore. When my flight was first booked it was a non-stop, but somewhere along the way Air Niugini added in a stop in Kuala Lumpur. It was only a brief stop with no need to disembark the plane. I had a layover of about 6 hours in Port Moresby and after checking in my bags for the domestic flight and getting my boarding passes (theres a counter for domestic transit passengers in the international terminal) I immediately headed to the Gateway hotel where I had pre-booked a dayroom for about $130 USD. Yes, prices are insane in Port Moresby, and the Gateway is one of the more economical options. Rooms at the Airways Hotel start between $300 and $400. Others in the group I was meeting had gone to the Airways hotel days earlier to enjoy the restaurant, bar, and pool there. I was traveling solo at this point and definitely wanted a bed for a few hours (Ive never been one to fall asleep easily on planes) and a shower, and the Airways does not book day rooms. The Gateway was relatively clean and pleasant and also has a nice pool and good restaurant and bar. There was some construction underway but that was due to be finished early next year.
I had been dreading check-in at the domestic terminal in Port Moresby for a number of reasons, least of which was the checked baggage limitations. My two checked bags were between 40 and 50 pounds each, but I also had 39-pound rollaboard with all my camera gear and regs, and a backpack with my computer, etc. and would be flying on a Dash 8 into Hoskins. As I went to board the small plane with my carry-on bags, the flight attendant actually started descending the stairs to help me in getting my rollaboard onboard and under the seat. I really was expecting to have to plead my case to take the rollaboard onto the plane with me.
Upon arrival in Hoskins, Max, who had arrived on my plane, and a driver met me. Max and Cecilie Benjamin and their staff have been introducing Kimbe Bay reefs to divers for over 25 years, according to Cecilie, heres how Walindi Plantation Resort came to be:
As I arrived, I was grateful to have listened to the instructions from the folks at Walindi and was prepared for the hour ride to the resort without the need for a bathroom break at the Hoskins airport. According to first hand reports, the rest rooms were pretty horrible. (I gauge things like this by the Sorong Airport and was told that Sorong paled in comparison.) I did likewise on my return and prayed that the flight would not be significantly delayed. Although most of the folks in the group I was meeting had arrived much earlier, I had booked only 4 nights at Walindi with 3 days of 2-tank dives. In hindsight, that was the right move. Most of the others concurred that they would have preferred shorter stays on land.
Walindi Plantation Resort - Accommodations
Both individual bungalows and guesthouse rooms were available. I was in a bungalow with a double bed and a smaller extra bed. The bungalows had small fridges and complimentary coffee, and the water is safe to drink. The ceiling fans and cool breezes at night were sufficient for comfortable sleeping, although daytime temps were well into the eighties with very high humidity. Meals were mostly buffet style with breakfast made to order, and the food was varied and excellent lots of veggie choices, fresh fish, chicken, etc. and generally very good desserts. Laundry service was offered daily free of charge; there was a bag for laundry in each bungalow and anything left in the morning was dropped off folded neatly in the afternoon. Theres a K (Kimbe) Mart in town that is well stocked in case of forgotten items and there is also an ATM and a crafts/vegetable market. I made a mistake exchanging too many dollars for kina; theres not much to spend money on. The DEET I brought was put to good use in the evenings.
The central resort area housed an open-air reception lobby, Casuarina Restaurant and Planter's Bar as well as an air-conditioned lounge and library with Internet facilities for guest use. The wireless did not reach far and was only intermittently available, not wholly unexpected given the remote location. There also was a small boutique and a small swimming pool.
Walindi Diving - Overview
The Dive Center was located on the jetty where the Star Dancer, the Febrina and the day boats were docked. We did 3-tank dives each day and the seven of us usually had the boat to ourselves. A really nice buffet lunch the best lunch I have ever seen offered on a day boat - was offered between dives, with fresh fish, chicken, fruit and veggies. The diving in general was excellent - but I do have to say that the diving on Febrina was even better. Lots of barrel sponges, whip coral, anemone fish, barracuda and the usual assortment of anemone fish, etc. Vis was excellent and water temps were 84-86. (This held throughout the trip.) Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal at finding things and was the best DM Ive ever come across in 20+ years of diving. He was helpful without being overbearing. Nitrox was available for $8 per tank (which was almost half less than I paid the last time in the Caymans for shorter, less-rich fills). There are about 25 dive sites that are visited regularly, the closest just a 5 minute boat ride away and the furthest about an hour away. We dove a variety of sites in Kimbe Bay including Inglis Shoals (a beautiful sea mount with large schools of jacks and barracudas) as well as a variety of reefs in the surrounding area. The dive sites in the area are too numerous to list but I have a map for those who may be interested in the detail.
Travel Logistics
The route I took to get to PNG was most certainly not the most direct. However, I had lots of United frequent flyer miles to burn and wanted to use them to get as far as I could in First Class seats. Thus, my trip would take me to Singapore as my jumping off spot to my Air Niugini flights to PNG. From the east coast, coming in via Tokyo or even Fiji would have been preferable, as would flying from Australia. Flying in First Class in a newly configured 747 wasnt too shabby of a choice, though, and you cant beat free tickets! As an added benefit, I also had access to the ANA and United First Class lounges along the way and managed to shower in Tokyo, Singapore, and Chicago on this trip oh, and of course in PNG. ;-) Given that the flights on Air Niugini alone werent inexpensive (economy class from Singapore to Hoskins ran me over $1600, even booked well in advance) the free seats to Singapore definitely helped eased the financial pain of the trip. In any event, getting there and back took days; Singapore to Tokyo was about 6 hours; Tokyo was Chicago is about 10-11 hours; Singapore to Port Moresby was about 6 hours. And then there was the time difference to deal with!
Since Ive always just passed through Singapore without ever leaving the airport I decided to do two and a half days on the front end there this time around. Hotel prices can be relatively high so I checked around and got a great deal at the Singapore Marriott using Priceline. I paid hundreds less than the rack rate even on just the few days. The Marriott is in an excellent location, close to shopping and transportation. If you stay there, be sure to ask for a room away from the construction. For Gold members they offer a terrific executive lounge with breakfast, cocktails and appetizers, and free Internet. There was also a nice pool. I hit all the regular tourist spots in Singapore, had some excellent food and spent an afternoon on the great tourist buses they offer for a reasonable price. I think I ate more chicken on this trip overall than Ive eaten ever, but I have to say I really got hooked on the chicken and rice cooked with chicken broth. Although it sounds bland, freshly ground chili and garlic sauce really add to it and I liked that I could season it to my taste. Singaporeans eat a fair number of chickens themselves if the number of chickens hung from racks in vendor stalls was any indication! On the way home, arriving in Singapore in the evening and leaving in the morning, I arranged to stay at one of the airports transit hotels. (Definitely reserve ahead of time if you go, and make sure you have a confirmation number.) The airport has more than its share of food and shopping choices, along with a 24-hour free movie theatre and other forms of entertainment and relaxation. Most of the shopping I did was just window shopping, but I did compare prices on a couple of camera lenses and found I could get them for the same price or less in the States (along with a US warranty). I always felt safe in Singapore and was always comfortable walking by myself. It was easy and convenient to exchange currency at any of the many authorized locations, and credit cards were routinely accepted as well.
My Air Niugini flight to Port Moresby was an unexpectedly pleasant experience, the first of all four Economy class flights on this airline incurring no additional baggage charges. (Note: Divers do get an extra baggage allowance for dive gear, but I was well over the published limit.) The planes were 767 wide-body jets, and I was lucky enough to have the exit rows. The flight attendants were generally cheerful and helpful and a full meal was served on the outbound overnight flight as well as the return flight to Singapore. When my flight was first booked it was a non-stop, but somewhere along the way Air Niugini added in a stop in Kuala Lumpur. It was only a brief stop with no need to disembark the plane. I had a layover of about 6 hours in Port Moresby and after checking in my bags for the domestic flight and getting my boarding passes (theres a counter for domestic transit passengers in the international terminal) I immediately headed to the Gateway hotel where I had pre-booked a dayroom for about $130 USD. Yes, prices are insane in Port Moresby, and the Gateway is one of the more economical options. Rooms at the Airways Hotel start between $300 and $400. Others in the group I was meeting had gone to the Airways hotel days earlier to enjoy the restaurant, bar, and pool there. I was traveling solo at this point and definitely wanted a bed for a few hours (Ive never been one to fall asleep easily on planes) and a shower, and the Airways does not book day rooms. The Gateway was relatively clean and pleasant and also has a nice pool and good restaurant and bar. There was some construction underway but that was due to be finished early next year.
I had been dreading check-in at the domestic terminal in Port Moresby for a number of reasons, least of which was the checked baggage limitations. My two checked bags were between 40 and 50 pounds each, but I also had 39-pound rollaboard with all my camera gear and regs, and a backpack with my computer, etc. and would be flying on a Dash 8 into Hoskins. As I went to board the small plane with my carry-on bags, the flight attendant actually started descending the stairs to help me in getting my rollaboard onboard and under the seat. I really was expecting to have to plead my case to take the rollaboard onto the plane with me.
Upon arrival in Hoskins, Max, who had arrived on my plane, and a driver met me. Max and Cecilie Benjamin and their staff have been introducing Kimbe Bay reefs to divers for over 25 years, according to Cecilie, heres how Walindi Plantation Resort came to be:
As I arrived, I was grateful to have listened to the instructions from the folks at Walindi and was prepared for the hour ride to the resort without the need for a bathroom break at the Hoskins airport. According to first hand reports, the rest rooms were pretty horrible. (I gauge things like this by the Sorong Airport and was told that Sorong paled in comparison.) I did likewise on my return and prayed that the flight would not be significantly delayed. Although most of the folks in the group I was meeting had arrived much earlier, I had booked only 4 nights at Walindi with 3 days of 2-tank dives. In hindsight, that was the right move. Most of the others concurred that they would have preferred shorter stays on land.
Walindi Plantation Resort - Accommodations
Both individual bungalows and guesthouse rooms were available. I was in a bungalow with a double bed and a smaller extra bed. The bungalows had small fridges and complimentary coffee, and the water is safe to drink. The ceiling fans and cool breezes at night were sufficient for comfortable sleeping, although daytime temps were well into the eighties with very high humidity. Meals were mostly buffet style with breakfast made to order, and the food was varied and excellent lots of veggie choices, fresh fish, chicken, etc. and generally very good desserts. Laundry service was offered daily free of charge; there was a bag for laundry in each bungalow and anything left in the morning was dropped off folded neatly in the afternoon. Theres a K (Kimbe) Mart in town that is well stocked in case of forgotten items and there is also an ATM and a crafts/vegetable market. I made a mistake exchanging too many dollars for kina; theres not much to spend money on. The DEET I brought was put to good use in the evenings.
The central resort area housed an open-air reception lobby, Casuarina Restaurant and Planter's Bar as well as an air-conditioned lounge and library with Internet facilities for guest use. The wireless did not reach far and was only intermittently available, not wholly unexpected given the remote location. There also was a small boutique and a small swimming pool.
Walindi Diving - Overview
The Dive Center was located on the jetty where the Star Dancer, the Febrina and the day boats were docked. We did 3-tank dives each day and the seven of us usually had the boat to ourselves. A really nice buffet lunch the best lunch I have ever seen offered on a day boat - was offered between dives, with fresh fish, chicken, fruit and veggies. The diving in general was excellent - but I do have to say that the diving on Febrina was even better. Lots of barrel sponges, whip coral, anemone fish, barracuda and the usual assortment of anemone fish, etc. Vis was excellent and water temps were 84-86. (This held throughout the trip.) Our guide, Peter, was phenomenal at finding things and was the best DM Ive ever come across in 20+ years of diving. He was helpful without being overbearing. Nitrox was available for $8 per tank (which was almost half less than I paid the last time in the Caymans for shorter, less-rich fills). There are about 25 dive sites that are visited regularly, the closest just a 5 minute boat ride away and the furthest about an hour away. We dove a variety of sites in Kimbe Bay including Inglis Shoals (a beautiful sea mount with large schools of jacks and barracudas) as well as a variety of reefs in the surrounding area. The dive sites in the area are too numerous to list but I have a map for those who may be interested in the detail.
