Pro Six HID light

[Wet Willy]

Recently acquired Halcyon Extreme Exposure Pro six HID light. Cannister is twelve inches high and weighs about 10 pounds. Any suggestions on mounting for cave diving. Have Dive Rite Trans pack, double eighties. Integrated weight pouch, belt mounted six pounds, three on each side, Under water weight for light is -3.5 lbs. so i suppose I could remove one weight pouch... suggestions appreciated.

PS:
Tried fastening to belt and the light keeps tipping over and in general just making a nuisance of itself.

 

[Crazyduck]

I have a MLS1 from Diverite and it takes a little getting used to.

I suggest getting yourself a “weight belt buckle” keep it loose. Take everything off the right side and slide the light canister all the back until you hit the vertical adjuster. Then slide the weight belt buckle so it butts up to the light canister and close the buckle. You should use the buckle as if you had attached it to a weight belt.

Next… aluminum 80’s go positive when empty so get your tanks to about 250 to 500 psi each and then do your weight check. I wear a harness and backplate and for standard weight I use a v-weight between the tanks. Why are you using integrated weight pouches? You might want to consider getting rid of them, lots of alternatives.

Later, Andrew

Recently acquired Halcyon Extreme Exposure Pro six HID light. Cannister is twelve inches high and weighs about 10 pounds. Any suggestions on mounting for cave diving. Have Dive Rite Trans pack, double eighties. Integrated weight pouch, belt mounted six pounds, three on each side, Under water weight for light is -3.5 lbs. so i suppose I could remove one weight pouch... suggestions appreciated.

PS:
Tried fastening to belt and the light keeps tipping over and in general just making a nuisance of itself.

 

[Wet Willy]

No problem shedding the integrated weight system. Light would replace weight on right side anyway. What option would you suggest to balance weights evenly...or is that a problem? Also, some one suggested attaching light to frame of transpak, just under the bladder... any comment on this suggestion.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[pdoege]

I wore it on the right side and I kept it up against the BP with an empty webbing buckle.

Worked great.

I tried using it attached to the BP (just like the frame of the transpac), that didn't work well at all. A lot of northernn wreck divers do that with the longer Sartek likes. It just doesn't work with the shorter, squatter pro 6.

The trick is to put the light on right after you don the BC. So don BC, light, light buckle, belt buckle, crotch strap, then regs, slate, etc.

Good luck, my pro 6 was bullet proof. I use the same head on a stealth canister now.

Peter Doege

 

[Crazyduck]

As Peter mentioned unless it is a single cell stack it’s not the best idea. I did this once as an experiment and looking like I was taking on water on one side- listing to Port. But if you want try it in the pool and see how it feels. The benefit to pushing it up the right side is it keeps it close to your body. The further the object is away from you the more you will feel it in the water when it is a negative weighted.

If you are starting to wear doubles I seriously suggest taking an “equipment configuration” class for technical divers. In this class they go over all the aspects that you are having questions about. Steel tanks, Aluminum tanks, lights, backplates, harness, etc. etc. A few organizations have such classes and they are worth the time. It helps to transition divers from recreational to technical.

Weighting options- I am just worried that someone might think that they can ditch weight at depth to get themselves out of trouble. This promotes more problems as the diver approaches the surface and can no longer control their ascent rate. So if we take this a step further then we should not be using easy ditchable weights with things like Velcro holding them together. My buddies know never to ditch my weight- period. I weight myself at 15ft with 500 psi in my tanks, and no air in my wing. That reduces the weight and wing profile to what I need and keeps me from being over weighted. This can be done in a pool also.

I might of spoke out of line earlier about weight pockets. I see this trend that people think that they can ditch their weights and swim to the surface. This is really a fallacy when we start to dive with doubles. When we have doubles, lights, reels, drysuit, and decompression obligation dropping weight is not acceptable. So why would we want a system that is designed to drop the weight in the first place? I tend to wear the same drysuit/wetsuit for my doubles so the weighting is the same and at most I might put trim weight on my harness belt. With steel tanks this is a mute point. So really you use hard weight, or get a simple weight pocket that you could slide on. Any weight that I apply is for trim only at the waist. I try to put almst all of my weight in that v-weight-between my tanks. Just take care with those weight pockets and make sure they are not overweighed and might drop the weight. Aluminum tanks go positive and you are wearing two tanks plus your weight needs; is going to add up. That’s why many divers go to steel tanks.

Regards, Andrew