Probably a dumb question……….

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I shoot with a lower shutter speed than 1/250 as the default - starting at 1/160. My reasoning being that with the size and weight of the camera I don't have to worry about movement of the camera and most life underwater is not moving very fast. This allows me to move to F11 as the default wide angle and to shoot at the maximum f stop for the lens I am using for macro. However, this gets changed quite a bit during a dive so the defaults rarely last long.

D200 RAW 12 -24 for wide angel 60mm and 105 for macro ISO 100 for macro ISO200 or 400 for wide angle Single ikelite strobe
 
To exemplify my point about aperture and details, both these pictures is taken with a $1000 lens. The subject is a sponge, angled to the lense. Both pics is taken with iso 100, 1/250 and a flash and as it was set on the table, the IS was OFF and the pics have just been cropped and exported, no post processing.
I'm sure you can see for yourselves which one is shot at f/22 and which one is shot at f/8...


Obviously the wider aperture has its downsides, but its also quite clearly sharper...
 
I have a D7000, Nauticam housing, two Ike 160 strobes, a sola focus light and wide angle, midrange zoom and macro lenses.

I always shoot in RAW. RAW allows for penalty free adjustment of white balance in post processing.

I always shoot manual. I do not like the auto settings like aperture or shutter priority because the camera can put you into an inappropriate setting.

I tend to run a shutter speed of 1/200. I generally stick with this but I will slow it down sometimes.

i shoot an aperture of F 8. If I increase the aperture, I lose some resolution because of diffraction. On macro shots, depth of field can take priority and I will bump up the F stop to up to 20.

i will vary ISO according to the light. The D7000 performs well at high ISO and I will bump it up to 1000. Generally, I like being at 200-400. On macro shots on sand, I find ISO 100 is a must and I often wish I had an ISO of 50.

I pay close attention to the histogram. I try to expose to the right meaning the mode is in the right half, if possible. Histograms can cause some problems because they are usually background dominated. It is more important to properly expose the subject.

i have a couple of suggestions. See if you can pick up a good used 60 mm macro with auto focus and internal focus, meaning the lens length is constant while you focus. The 60 macro is a great lens and very useful underwater.

My other suggestion is to get Martin Edge's superb book on underwater photography. It is the best treatment of the subject that I have seen.

---------- Post added December 29th, 2013 at 12:20 PM ----------

By the way, I have learned to do a ranging shot or two or three to get the exposure right on a subject before I move in for the critical work on focusing and composition. I have heard of photographers spending a long time on a single subject. I talked to one guy who spent something like 40 minutes waiting for a frog fish to do something. He got a shot of it grabbing a fish.

The more experienced I get, the more time I spend with individual subjects.
 
re: foreground vs background exposure :)

"wrong" exposures can be cool too. The picture was taken early in the evening, just as it started to get dusk - but looks to be almost in the dark.
Its all about what you want to achieve :)
(p.s. I only used the internal flash on the above shot, as my main interest with photography is underwater I haven't bothered with strobes above water :p )
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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