Problems on Hollis sms 75 for Alu Cylinders? Just back from a sidemount class...

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I found a sliding ring called "LB-Sliding Ring" but didn't know where to buy. Does anyone knows? or recommend some alternates? :blinking:

Yes. Skip the sliding ring completely. Put two d-rings on your waist on each side. Look at how the Razor does it, NOT the Stealth. The Stealth is a great system, which I like better than the Razor....but the sliding ring is useless. I found myself only ever using it in two positions: Up and down. When the tank is negative, it's "up." When it starts floating, I slide it "down." When it REALLY starts floating (empty), you have to move it to a fixed d-ring anyway because it slides the sliding d-rings back. Use two fixed d-rings instead.
 
I've been using the Stealth O rings on a Hollis SMS 50 but would like to try the 2 fixed d ring method...any advice on where to position the d rings on the belt to start with.......
 
I've been using the Stealth O rings on a Hollis SMS 50 but would like to try the 2 fixed d ring method...any advice on where to position the d rings on the belt to start with.......

This might be the easiest question I've been asked all month! Next time you dive your Stealth O-rings, make a mental note of where on your body your ringss start out at.....full. Then, make a note of where your rings end up at when the tanks have gone positive. My best guess is that you will want them on the "corners" of your back and sides to start and will move them to your hips to finish. My best guess is also that with your Stealth O-rings, you only move your tanks once or twice per dive. Find where those two points are and place d-rings there instead.
 
Yes. Skip the sliding ring completely. Put two d-rings on your waist on each side.

Just out of curiosity, have you seen the demo or used a LB-SR ?
As for the rubber ring sliding back, never had that issue, except when my rig was poorly configured. I have to admit I never drain a tank, I tend to leave at least 20-30 bars in it. I can push the tank so far to the front that it becomes annoyingly low on my side, and it doesn't float back up.

Not saying those are the ultimate solutions, simply that I consider them both viable, more than 2 fixed d-rings.
 
thanks all the advices above...I know how to place the Drings and go to swimmig pool to re-adjust my sms 75 this weekend.

And the next step is DIY a weight plate, hahaha...When diving with Alu & wetsuit, I just need one lead of 1.5kg on my back, so the hollis sms weight plate is not suitable for me. It is hard to find two leads of 0.75kg to put in each side of the pocket.

---------- Post added April 16th, 2015 at 09:11 AM ----------

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These are the two types of weight systems we have made for the sms75. To get the weight further back

The first is for single back mount and sidemount with out the need to remove it. It bolts into the twin tank mounts. Sit outside of a 12lt faber tank. But it is bulky.

The second has lead roofing sheet sandwiched between checker plate and rubber. Same weight as first but 12mm high. For sidemount only, uses the same mounts


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Looks good~

I have an idea that buy several small trim weight pockets and sew them up on a weight belt. Then go to a factory and inset two eyelets on it in order to attach it on the soft plate by using screw nuts. Just a little similar with the long weight pocket of stealth 2.0
 
how do you dive sms 75 with single tank? did you replace the position of the inflator elbow? I found a little inconvenience when deal with the long nylon rope of the shoulder opv:)
 
When I dove backmount last time, it was with a bottom-mounted inflator. You just run a drysuit-length inflator hose, and route it the same as you would a drysuit (but backwards). Route it left, down, under your arm, and into the inflator. No reason to move the OPV.....it's MUCH better up top.
 

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