PT-059 red lens filter

[DivrBikr]

~(probably a newbie question)
I've contacted Olympus regarding red lenses for the PT-059 and have come up with nothing. They state they don't have any "in their inventory". With that being said, is there a need for a red lens for depth?
If there is a need for one, are there aftermarket red filters that either slide on or screw on? I'd prefer the slide on to allow for the "wet lens" and the ability to remove it easily at shallower depths.
Any words of wisdom or a place to look?
Thanks,
TJ

 

[hedonist222]

This is to correct for the loss of the color red underwater.
I think this is for people who do not photograph in RAW and thus forfeit the ability to color-correct with software.

I guess it would work if you have no intention of software color-correcting and want to reduce the blue tone.

Best is to photograph in RAW and adjust with software (color balance). And needless to say, a flash will help immensely.

When shooting in JPG, Olympus has programmed the TG-6 to do all produce an okay to pretty-acceptable image out the camera.
Which is essentially a sharper, brighter, colorful and punchier (contrast) image.

But by shooting in RAW, you will need to adjust all the other elements that Olympus normally does for you when shooting in JPG.
Which are:
- sharpness
- brightness
- contrast
- color


Thats why some photographs look like this (taken by yours truly):

And some like this:

Not sure if slide-on ones exist.

 

[DivrBikr]

This is to correct for the loss of the color red underwater.
I think this is for people who do not photograph in RAW and thus forfeit the ability to color-correct with software.

I guess it would work if you have no intention of software color-correcting and want to reduce the blue tone.

Best is to photograph in RAW and adjust with software (color balance). And needless to say, a flash will help immensely.

When shooting in JPG, Olympus has programmed the TG-6 to do all produce an okay to pretty-acceptable image out the camera.
Which is essentially a sharper, brighter, colorful and punchier (contrast) image.

But by shooting in RAW, you will need to adjust all the other elements that Olympus normally does for you when shooting in JPG.
Which are:
- sharpness
- brightness
- contrast
- color


I know.
Now you need to photograph in RAW and hence must use software
Added steps to what should be simply point-n-shoot.

Thats why some photographs look like this:

View attachment 750625

And some like this:

View attachment 750624



It is what it is.

~I appreciate your input.. Thank you!

 

[FezUSA]

You can shoot RAW for best results, but you can also shoot JPEG if you have decent lighting and do some basic Photoshop Elements work afterward. Here's some examples of a TG-4 with two Inon S2000 lights.

 

[DivrBikr]

You can shoot RAW for best results, but you can also shoot JPEG if you have decent lighting and do some basic Photoshop Elements work afterward. Here's some examples of a TG-4 with two Inon S2000 lights.

View attachment 750651



View attachment 750654


View attachment 750655

Thank you for your input Sir,, I'm very much a newbie with this type of underwater camera (TG-6). Will have to figure out how to set up the camera for RAW (still not sure what that is).

 

[FezUSA]

Thank you for your input Sir,, I'm very much a newbie with this type of underwater camera (TG-6). Will have to figure out how to set up the camera for RAW (still not sure what that is).

Shooting raw essentially means that the file 'ignores' any image "enhancement" settings and just takes the picture data from the combination of shutter speed, aperture, and digital equivalent of ISO (light sensitivity). The Oly has UW settings, for example, that will try and automatically improve the JPEG image knowing that you've told the camera you're underwater. The raw capture would ignore whatever the camera did to improve that image. Basically, if you choose a setting/filter on your camera, the idea is that the image out of the camera is good to go with no or minimum editing needed. Raw means the image will HAVE to be edited but because it's the image as pure as the camera could take it and hasn't already been modified by the camera in any other way, you can usually get a better end result picture, as long as you have the software to open the raw image, the knowledge of how to work the raw image to get the best outcome, and the time and willingness to do that. You can always edit the JPEG too, but you're starting from an already modified picture. Which is OK providing that whatever was modified didn't include losing detail that you now want back!

I often shoot RAW+JPEG which takes up a lot more memory card space, but that's cheap enough these days. This way I can quickly edit the JPEG for most of my images for web use etc., but if I get a stellar image that I want to print or really show off (if I ever wanted to enter in a photo competition for example) I will likely go back to the RAW version of that picture and work it to the best of my abilities before printing. I can also get help from the Photoshop experts by having them help me with the Photoshop, which in and of itself is a whole other skillset than taking pictures!!

My pictures above are from edited JPEGs.

Ultimately for UW picture taking, what first separates a good picture from a so-so or bad picture will be controlled by the amount of available light and how the subject is lit.

 

[DivrBikr]

Shooting raw essentially means that the file 'ignores' any image "enhancement" settings and just takes the picture data from the combination of shutter speed, aperture, and digital equivalent of ISO (light sensitivity). The Oly has UW settings, for example, that will try and automatically improve the JPEG image knowing that you've told the camera you're underwater. The raw capture would ignore whatever the camera did to improve that image. Basically, if you choose a setting/filter on your camera, the idea is that the image out of the camera is good to go with no or minimum editing needed. Raw means the image will HAVE to be edited but because it's the image as pure as the camera could take it and hasn't already been modified by the camera in any other way, you can usually get a better end result picture, as long as you have the software to open the raw image, the knowledge of how to work the raw image to get the best outcome, and the time and willingness to do that. You can always edit the JPEG too, but you're starting from an already modified picture. Which is OK providing that whatever was modified didn't include losing detail that you now want back!

I often shoot RAW+JPEG which takes up a lot more memory card space, but that's cheap enough these days. This way I can quickly edit the JPEG for most of my images for web use etc., but if I get a stellar image that I want to print or really show off (if I ever wanted to enter in a photo competition for example) I will likely go back to the RAW version of that picture and work it to the best of my abilities before printing. I can also get help from the Photoshop experts by having them help me with the Photoshop, which in and of itself is a whole other skillset than taking pictures!!

My pictures above are from edited JPEGs.

Ultimately for UW picture taking, what first separates a good picture from a so-so or bad picture will be controlled by the amount of available light and how the subject is lit.

I'm working on try to get to the "RAW" setting... I have the TG-6 manual, but either I'm not seeing it, or my reading comprehension has gone in the toilet.

 

[DivrBikr]

I'm working on try to get to the "RAW" setting... I have the TG-6 manual, but either I'm not seeing it, or my reading comprehension has gone in the toilet.

OK,,, got it figured out (sorta,, lol). I very much appreciate your time with my questions Sir.
If you have any other tips, I would very much appreciate those as well. I hope your day is good

 

[FezUSA]

OK,,, got it figured out (sorta,, lol). I very much appreciate your time with my questions Sir.
If you have any other tips, I would very much appreciate those as well. I hope your day is good

We drop in from a boat and my wife (buddy) and I will usually be told we can head down and wait for everyone else to descend to the starting point. I'll often use that time to get my equipment sorted and ready for shooting, as well as making sure I'm balanced (hover) so as to control my depth by breathing alone. I then will find a static object and will get in a position similar to what I expect to take photos from, and then I'll play with the light positioning etc. until I'm happy with the exposure. That way once we start the dive I should be already close to where I can point and shoot! With the TG series not having a full manual mode all I'm really doing is tweaking the light position after that, which is continuous for every picture, but I'm not starting from scratch.

Even when not diving with a camera I will always practice buoyancy skills as well as evaluating opportunities for how I would frame shots etc.

 

[DivrBikr]

We drop in from a boat and my wife (buddy) and I will usually be told we can head down and wait for everyone else to descend to the starting point. I'll often use that time to get my equipment sorted and ready for shooting, as well as making sure I'm balanced (hover) so as to control my depth by breathing alone. I then will find a static object and will get in a position similar to what I expect to take photos from, and then I'll play with the light positioning etc. until I'm happy with the exposure. That way once we start the dive I should be already close to where I can point and shoot! With the TG series not having a full manual mode all I'm really doing is tweaking the light position after that, which is continuous for every picture, but I'm not starting from scratch.

Even when not diving with a camera I will always practice buoyancy skills as well as evaluating opportunities for how I would frame shots etc.

Thank you for that info Sir