Quality dive knife, sharp and rust resistant

[Mike Walsh]

I went threw many knives . Stainless is only a coating over a poor metal ..Than I picked a titanium knife . you pay twice as much as a stainless but well worth it . You should keep on hand a scissors . To cut threw {fishing line } . Hope this helps you out .
Scubadmike

 

[eelnoraa]

Cut off steak knife. Give it a try. Very resistant to rust, cut through things much easier than any so called dive knife I have tried. Better yet, if you lose one, you don't miss it because it is so cheap.

 

[tracydr]

What about a ceramic knife? I have a couple of ceramic paring knives that were both cheap and sharp. They keep an edge well,too. I haven't taken them diving,though.

---------- Post added July 21st, 2013 at 12:37 PM ----------

Cut off steak knife. Give it a try. Very resistant to rust, cut through things much easier than any so called dive knife I have tried. Better yet, if you lose one, you don't miss it because it is so cheap.

This is what I use.

 

[bionicdiver]

For most of my dive gear, I believe in having equipment that is reliable and easy to care for. However, in the case of a dive tool (a.k.a. knife), I don't see the need to buy something very expensive. I have a stainless steel blade from UK that has served me well for about 6 years. While it does have a little rust, it will still get the job done. As far as I remember, I have only ever had to take it out of the sheath once when an angry salt water croc tried to take a nip out of one of my fins. The other thing about a dive knife is that if you buy a cheaper knife, you won't care as much if you lose it or drop it. If it is an expensive knife, then you are going to be tremendously upset if you drop it. Some folks will go as far as trying to retrieve it when they shouldn't, putting themselves or dive buddy in danger.

In my humble opinion, go with a cheap-o dive tool and get a good set of EMT shears. My shears are invaluable. I have used them many times cutting through fishing line or wire leaders.

Just my two cents.

 

[Carlos Danger]

Guess it kind of depends on the application. Personally, I do not use my knifes much, but I always carry one. Wenoka have some good dive knife products that are reasonably priced. I have one of their strait bladed models similar to below. It is hyper sharp and pretty low profile as well!




I recently picked up a Mares Force Bat Titanium folder, just because I wanted something basic that I could more easily stow in a pocket.

 

[Doc]

I'm a silicone grease kind of guy. Slather it up and sheath it up. Maintain it accordingly and you'll never have rust.

The Achilles heel to most knife systems is the handles and the fasteners used. Handles trap corrosives and the fasteners should be at a minimum grade 6 stainless. You can replace inferior ones with a trip to Grainger or any aviation or race car supply. Still, you need to grease order the handles and schedule it as regular maintenance.

Ceramics are interesting but two problems: lack of a decent sheath retention system, and they are absolutely brittle.

I like my Spyderco Salt, I think that was it's original name, now the H1(?). U/W is the only place I'm carrying a primary knife that is serrated. My perceived issues revolve around cutting rope (nets or wrapped around a prop shaft).

Spyderco took an awful turn maybe 15 years ago and issued two different sizes of the "Dive Probe". The blade retracted and was held in the body of the 12" bar tool with a spring steel spring. Bad bad bad idea. The spring consistently broke after the first surface interval in salt water. They make perfectly sharp blades and the first one nearly lopped my thumb off. I was cautious using number two, but after one use, it snapped instantly. Beware this attractive vintage Spyderco.

The Wenoka as mentioned above is another excellent Titanium choice. I've gotten superb service from mine and it is really sharp from the factory.

Becker Knife & Tool makes and excellent bar style pry bar/blade. I have one in a heavy nickel plate that has been brutalized for 20 years, it still is perfect.

The Buck Tiburon is a durable piece, no complaints after a lot of years.

Titanium (solid) are an option, but consumer grade blades still have trace iron or some thing that will cause rust flecking. A UDT non magnetic will not disappoint, but at $1000 a copy, I would say the US Government got what they paid for. They are also unsettling long and bayonet-like, but if you want the real deal, there you go.

Titanium (nitride coating) is another version, but the cutting edge itself is left exposed for simple sharpening, leaving it exposed to the corrosive elements.

The big consideration is retaining the knife and having visual access to assist in re-sheathing them. I have a lanyard on any tool that I dive with and the sheath is tethered so that I can see it when I'm done with the blade.

I have two different size Titanium pry bars (they bring them in from Russia), and I've used them a whole lot more than any knife. Select the tool (including a knife) that is best suited for your anticipated need of the dive.

 

[maniago]

Cut off steak knife. Give it a try. Very resistant to rust, cut through things much easier than any so called dive knife I have tried. Better yet, if you lose one, you don't miss it because it is so cheap.

+1 on the steak knife. And when youre done diving, put it in the dishwasher and back in the kitchen drawer. If its functional and reliable, it doesn't have to be pretty.

 

[vladimir]

I went threw many knives

Don't throw knives! It's dangerous...one could go right through somebody's skin.

 

[Peter69_56]

Spyderco H1 is the only knife to consider. It's got a true lifetime warranty, like a snap-on tool. It will NOT rust. I've left my H1 in a tool box for two weeks filled with salt water, it didn't rust.

It's stupidly sharp. I've had several people check it's sharpness with their fingers, only to notice they'd cut themselves, lol.
I'm a dealer, buy one, if you don't like it, I'll give you your money back.

Went to a fishing and boating show one and was looking for a good quality non rusting fishing knife. Found one I liked and after discussion had a promise that if it ever rusted I could get my money back. Went home and it sure was a sharp knife and just what I wanted, buttttttttttt

you guessed it, the high carbon steel content that made it so nice and sharp, meant it rusted. AND idiot hadn't gotten the retailer address so guarantee meant squat.

Still have it and I do like it but I have to be attentive to ensure it doesn't rust.


But on that note, I do see a lot of good reports on Spyderco H1 knives. I am leaning towards them.

---------- Post added July 22nd, 2013 at 02:28 PM ----------

I went threw many knives . Stainless is only a coating over a poor metal ..Than I picked a titanium knife . you pay twice as much as a stainless but well worth it . You should keep on hand a scissors . To cut threw {fishing line } . Hope this helps you out .
Scubadmike

Like the idea of shears as well and think they have a multitude of functions.

---------- Post added July 22nd, 2013 at 02:31 PM ----------

For most of my dive gear, I believe in having equipment that is reliable and easy to care for. However, in the case of a dive tool (a.k.a. knife), I don't see the need to buy something very expensive. I have a stainless steel blade from UK that has served me well for about 6 years. While it does have a little rust, it will still get the job done. As far as I remember, I have only ever had to take it out of the sheath once when an angry salt water croc tried to take a nip out of one of my fins. The other thing about a dive knife is that if you buy a cheaper knife, you won't care as much if you lose it or drop it. If it is an expensive knife, then you are going to be tremendously upset if you drop it. Some folks will go as far as trying to retrieve it when they shouldn't, putting themselves or dive buddy in danger.

In my humble opinion, go with a cheap-o dive tool and get a good set of EMT shears. My shears are invaluable. I have used them many times cutting through fishing line or wire leaders.

Just my two cents.

The fishing knife I ended up with in the end was a Frost. Cost about $6 and I bought about 10 of them. Will hold an edge for a while and don't rust, but the good part is that if I drop it, well I just reach for another. Nothing like watching your favourite $100 knife slowly disappear into the depths after you try and wash it while cleaning fish. You quickly ram your arm into the water to your armpit and realise its only about 6' deeper than your arm is long.

---------- Post added July 22nd, 2013 at 02:33 PM ----------

+1 on the steak knife. And when youre done diving, put it in the dishwasher and back in the kitchen drawer. If its functional and reliable, it doesn't have to be pretty.

And if you are discrete enough the wife wont know (except mine who has the eyes of an eagle and the nose of a cocaine sniffing dog!)

 

[WhiteSands]

I have the spyderco salt H1. There is no rust at all even when I forget to remove it from the pouch after a dive to wash it. I read it is not possible for H1 to rust because there is no carbon in it. Another plus is H1 hardens with each sharpening.

First time I used it I noticed rust on the logo of the uncoated blade. My buddy bought the all black one and hers had no rust. I searched online and learned the rust is from the metal from the tool used to stamp the logo and not the blade. After a few uses the rust is gone now.

Would recommend fully serrated if possible for more aggressive cutting of line / rope etc.