Renting DIN Tanks

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LavaSurfer:
I am thinking of converting to DIN
Any idea how hard it it to rent DIN tanks on trips?
Carry my own valves an option?
What are options?

When I'm diving in Cold water locales (PNW, Monterey, LowCal) finding DIN is no problem. When I'm in warm water (HI, Belize, Carrib, etc.) I've never seen one without begging and calling ahead, etc.

All my regs are DIN. All of the tanks I own are DIN. When I travel, I carry a simple DIN to (j)Yoke converter. It cost me $30 and it allows me to use my DIN reg on any (j)Yoke tank valve.

Its small, so its always in the dry box.

---
Ken


65778135.E2Uh80e6.jpg
 
Only problem with those yoke converters is they make the reg poke you in the back of your head. Not a big deal if you're only make a trip a year or so but if most of your diving is on yoke rental tanks, I wouldn't want to mess with DIN or I'd have a dedicated yoke 1st stage.
 
I also carry a simple DIN / Yoke adapter.. no head poking problems here..
 
I've never had a problem with the adaptor poking my head, but here's a solution I've seen others use on Carribbean trips. Turn the tank backwards so the valve orifice is facing back, turn the reg upside down so the 2nd stage comes over the right shoulder. The only problem is that the tank valve is now on the "wrong" side, so it's a non-standard configuration.
 
LavaSurfer:
I am thinking of converting to DIN
Any idea how hard it it to rent DIN tanks on trips?
Carry my own valves an option?
What are options?
All of my cylinders are DIN, all of my regs are DIN. Same problem as you...

If I am doing a quick dive for just a day or two I will use the adapter gizmo in the picture in the earlier post. If I am planning a special trip for multiple days to a distant location I just convert my regulator back.

If you are going to have your existing regulator converted from Yoke, just ask the shop to save all of the parts and put them in a ziplok bag, also ask them to show you how to convert them back yourself. Once you have done this you will have both the parts and the skill to be able to make this simple change yourself. It is not somthing you want to change every day, but a once or twice a year kind of thing should be no problem.

Not all regulator first stages can be converted from Yoke to DIN easily, but I am just guessing that whatever you have can be easily changed back and forth. It should be quite simple to do with a few tools. The only specialty tools might be a specific size allen wrench and a large crescent wrench or socket. You would want to keep these tools separate from your other tools to keep them from being contaminated with oil or grease. Not that big a deal really.

Have fun,

Mark Vlahos
 
Mark Vlahos:
Not all regulator first stages can be converted from Yoke to DIN easily, but I am just guessing that whatever you have can be easily changed back and forth. It should be quite simple to do with a few tools. The only specialty tools might be a specific size allen wrench and a large crescent wrench or socket. You would want to keep these tools separate from your other tools to keep them from being contaminated with oil or grease. Not that big a deal really.

Have fun,

Mark Vlahos

Thanks Mark
I have Mares V32 first stage. The kit is around $40
 
Unfortunatly the places I've traveled to don't even know what DIN is (They'll look at me as if something was growing out of my forhead when I ask for it!). So that's why I carry a DIN to Yoke converter like many other people with this configuration. Some shops have Pro Outlet Valves on their tanks and don't even know it, so it's a good idea to check it out yourself. Pro Valves are Convertible from Yoke configuration to DIN, if you look at the orifice you can use an Allen Wrench to take the insert out so you can hook up your DIN Connection.
 
The extra length really isn't that much of an issue, certainly not enough of one to buy an extra first stage to fix it. I use one of those adapters with no problem. I wouldn't switch back and forth between yoke and DIN too much, I'd be worried about the wear on the fittings and threads, since you're working parts that normally would only move during overhauls.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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