School me on tanks and canister lights

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My first question is, why do you want to double them up?

At my LDS, the boosters cut off at 3,300 psig, eventhough they are capable of boosting up to 6,000 psig. This particular boost setup has a "safety pilot valve" (not for sure if this is the technical term) which limits the boosting pressure. So if they screw up on the amount of oxygen or helium in the mixture, they can not add anymore since the ending pressure is higher than 3,300. But that's not say the booster at your LDS is like that, they could have a simple booster setup.



You are correct LEDs are the future, but for now they are only capable of meeting 10-15 watt HID, if you want a brighter light, then HID is the way to go. Halcyon, and Light Monkey make a 35 watt and 50 watt HID; it will be decades before a single LED diode will be on par with these high powered HID.

They each have their pros and cons.

LED:
Pro: compact, light weight, more energy efficent, and durable
Cons: non-focusing beam (or at least I have not seen any), some have a wide beam (multi diodes), more expensive for single diode head vs. multi diode head.

HID:
Pros: brighter, focusing beam, preferred by cave and wreck divers
Cons: larger, bulbs are fragile, expensive for the 35 and 50 watt units

I know the pros and cons list can go on and on, but selecting a light is up to you. You will be satisfied with either, LED or HID light. Light Monkey, Halcyon, and Dive Rite make very good units; there are other brands out there but I can not comment on them.

I want to double up my hp120s because I intend to get into tec diving within the next year and a half, provided I can dive enough this summer, and I figured I already have the tanks, why pay another 1000$ for tanks when I have a good pair(although they ARE worthingtons) that I could be gaining experience diving with in this set up. I'm not on a really tight budget but a large is still a good chunk of money when you consider that I'd need
-a backplate/wing/webbing
-manifolds/valves
-new set of regs
And various other items

But like I said, if the disadvantages are too many, I'll sell them and buy new lp120/130s or something along those lines
 
What's wrong with that? Worthington makes a good cylinder from both everything I hear and have personally experienced.

Some people seems to say they've made bad batches that don't pass hydro or something. I don't think mine have been back for an hydro. Manufacture date of somewhere in 07 I believe
 
Some people seems to say they've made bad batches that don't pass hydro or something. I don't think mine have been back for an hydro. Manufacture date of somewhere in 07 I believe

I've never seen any mention of bad batches, but there are specific procedures that the hydro facility must follow to in order to avoid erroneous failures. I spoke to my LDS about it when I sent a set out this winter, to make sure the facility he uses was familiar with the required protocol. They passed without problem.
 
Yeah, it's something (allegedly) to do with the hot-dip galvanizing process. It's also happening more frequently on the exemption-tanks, and less so on the 3AA (LP) tanks.

As long as your hydro facility follows the proper procedures, they should be fine.
 
I just got my Worthington 120 hydro done last week first one since tank was purchased. It passed with no issues. I did here about the problem with the failing tanks. When I brought mine in for service I asked the shop if they performed the hydro in house and also if they were aware of the testing procedure specified by Worthington. The shop did know of the issue with failing tanks and said he had seen a few of the 100's that had failed he also said Worthington replaced the failed tanks with new ones.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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