Trip Report Sea of Cortez-August 2023

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living4experiences

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Messages
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Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
This will be a multi-entry trip report due to the size limitations for posting. Me and my dive buddy took this trip on the Nautilus Belle Amie for the 5-Day Getaway in the Sea of Cortez. This is my third trip with Nautilus. The two previous times were to Socorro on the Belle Amie and the Explorer. This was a replacement trip for my three-times-cancelled Guadalupe great white shark trip. Refunds were not given, only credit towards another trip. I would have preferred a refund because the mellow SOC is not the thrill of Guadalupe, but I made it work. Since I’d already been to Socorro twice, I chose SOC for us. The information on the website for this trip has several errors, and it was difficult, at times, communicating with their office in Canada. Once we arrived in Cabo, we were given conflicting information from what I was told previously and what was in their PDF trip brochure.

We had 20 guests, 5 of which were snorkelers and free divers, so 15 divers on two skiffs, and one skiff for the snorkelers. The mix of experience was from first-timers on a liveaboard with not much experience to others with more advanced skills. Captain Ramon did his best to get us to the least weather-beaten dive sites from the hurricane. Fifteen dives were offered, and I did 14 of them because of the 24-hour no-fly rule for the last dive.

Getting There. The flights were uneventful, but I was targeted for the extortion scam for camera housings. This was my fourth time flying into Cabo, and I’m very aware of this scam and was prepared. I had a TG6 and a PT-059 housing and a GoPro (the two camera limit). He was on a mission to fine me for something as he tore through my luggage unzipping everything and pulling things out. I had a laptop, my strobe, medications, and some clothes, too. As he kept pawing through my stuff, I started to ask questions, because I really don’t sit quietly easily when someone is going through my stuff. It kind of went like this:

Me: What is it you’re looking for?

CA: (Customs Agent) Electronics. Do you have a camera?

Me: Yes.

CA: What do you have? (At this point, he found the TG6.)

Me: A GoPro.

CA: Where is it? I want to see it. (I then showed it to him.)

Me: What else are you looking for?

CA: Electronics.

Me: I don’t have any other electronics. (He already saw the laptop too.)

Then he finds the housing and with excitement in his voice, he says, “How much does this cost?” I don’t answer, but I’m ready to pull out a copy of my receipt that I brought with me. He asks again, “How much does this cost?”

Me: Why do you want to know how much it costs?

CA: Because in Mexico, you have to pay a tax.

Me: What tax? I didn’t buy it here. I brought it from home.

CA: But you have to pay a tax. I need to look it up. (He is now taking a picture of it and looking it up on his phone and turning it over and over as if studying it.)

Me: I don’t have to pay the tax. I’m not a professional. This is not professional equipment.

He never made eye contact but just keeps turning it over and over in his hand. As he’s doing this, I’m packing all my stuff back in the bag. He then hands me the housing and says, “Okay. Go.” I won! He obviously didn’t care about the GoPro. His mission was to find the housing for Mexico's thievery and extortion scam targeted at scuba divers.

Hurricane Hilary. I've never seen or had a hurricane affect my travel plans till now, and this was a wild ride. We stayed at Tesoro, a hotel located at the marina. Most of the businesses were closed and all the marina shops were boarded up. I heard it was a cat 2 hurricane, and it was a bit unnerving to ride it out. The sewers overflowed and there was raw sewage flowing in the street, and it stunk really bad, like you want to vomit from the stench.

The Mexican government put a moratorium on the sale of alcohol in all restaurants (the few that were actually open) until Sunday at noon. So, the liquor stores that were open were busy with people buying alcohol.

Getting to La Paz. The transfer to and from La Paz was a challenge and we had more issues with Nautilus and the logistics of transportation. It’s not two to two-and-a-hours to get there, as I was told. It’s a full three hours on a rough road with bad traffic, sprinkled with some road rage, and a bad driver. If I was informed accurately, we would have flown into La Paz. We had some other problems, but there’s no need to go on about it here. We got there a little battered but in one piece, so I’m thankful for that.

The Boat. Many of you have been on the Belle Amie, so I won’t go into much detail, except to say that our room, Rosario, had broken air conditioning and a nonfunctioning toilet. This was an issue on the Belle Amie a couple of weeks prior to our trip, and the answer I got from Nautilus was that the problems were fixed. That was not the reality of being on board. Since my last trip, they have disabled the guest room doors from locking, so we were unable to lock our room at night. The room was immaculately clean and kept clean during the trip.

The Food. The hostesses and chef did a great job with attentive service and very good meals. I would say that this trip had much better food than my previous two trips. No one ever went hungry, and the chef was very accommodating with various dietary needs.

(To Be Continued)
 

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(Continued Trip Report)

Diving and Conditions. We knew the visibility would probably be less than optimal and that turned out to be true. Better said, it was the worst I’ve ever dived in. We were instructed to keep the dive guide in sight if you wanted to wander off. We were diving in a milky, white cloud of silt at many of the dive sites. The surface swells were at about five feet, so getting on and off the skiff was extra work.

We went down as a group and came up as a group. I don’t know if that’s normal for the SOC on Nautilus, but perhaps this was the procedure with such low visibility and a greater chance of losing a diver. We did have a couple of divers wander off and get lost, then surfaced away from the skiff.

Captain Ramon put it to a vote to change from Espirtu Santo to Carmen Island. He said Espiritu Santo can be a crowded area with lots of tour boats, and given the lingering stormy weather, do we want to go to Carmen? We all voted yes. Our first dive site on Carmen Island, Kukureka, had never been explored by Nautilus, and it was a real dud. If you have this site on offer, ask to skip it. There was no fish and nothing to see but sand and rubble. The other sites were okay.

On the fourth and last dive day, we finally got calm seas and blue skies, and the diving improved immensely. It was a relief from all the rockin’ and rollin’ we had done in the prior days on and off the boat.

All the dives had a 60-minute time limit in order to fit in four dives per day. Sometimes the guide didn’t stick to the planned maximum depth and often exceeded it by 20 or more feet. I found the guides to be okay but not the best I’ve ever had. One dive, the guide spent 18 minutes on the sand waiting for blennies. I lost interest and went exploring in the rocks. I like blennies, but that’s a long time to study one creature, and the less experienced divers were kicking up the sand trying to stay on the bottom.

The water temps were 83-85 degrees F on a couple of the dives, but most dives were 86-90 degrees F. The women wore skins and the men wore swim shorts and T-shirts. Topside temps were mid-90s F. The exposed areas of the boat were too hot to go barefoot.

Fin Rule. This was a new one for me. Once you get on the skiff, you are not allowed to put your fins on until the skiff separates from the mother ship. With the high surface swells, it was very hard to do that. It had something to do with people bumping their heads when putting on their fins. IMO, there is no logic here. You can bump your head with anyone at anytime while donning your fins or any other gear.

Night Dive. This trip was advertised as offering two night dives, but we only got one, with no explanation as to why we didn’t get the second one. Seven of the 15 divers had never done a night dive. I’m an avid night diver, so I’ve heard a lot of briefings, and I ended up giving the newbies a few more instructions that the guide didn’t cover.
The moon cycle was just right so that we could experience the bioluminescence by turning off our lights and play in the bio. That was really fun and I always love it.

Nitrox. We were told that there was no need to analyze our tank, that the crew would do it, and all the tanks were marked for us with a strip of tape indicating each fill for the day. Each day, there was a new strip of tape for that day’s dives. Anyone could analyze their tank, though, if they wanted to. It was marked as 30%, and the fills were mostly 3000 pounds, but a couple of times I needed a top-off from 2800 pounds.

Marine Life. The SOC is very different from other Caribbean locations. The terrain is very rocky, and there were a couple of wrecks we went to. I found several species of fish and eels that I had never seen before, a zebra eel, snowflake eel, sea stars everywhere and more green moray eels than I’ve ever seen in a single dive. Of course, the sea lions were the stars, and we had a few playful interactions.

At times, there were hundreds of schooling fish. We had a couple of turtles, no sharks, eagle rays, whale sharks, or seahorses, which are things they said to be on the lookout. We saw one hammerhead very deep in just a faint outline. Another group got to see a giant group of hammerheads in the deep. There was a very healthy population of Sergeant Majors and big ones, too; much bigger than I’m used to seeing in other Caribbean locations.

We were treated with a mobula breaking the surface on the way back to the mother ship on the last dive of the trip. It may have been two mobulas or the same one twice. That was super cool!

I didn’t take many pictures because of the conditions, but I’ll attach a few interesting ones and ask for some help with fish I.D.

Final Thoughts. Something that stood out to me in the SOC is how many species of marine life share the same space or swim together. The sheer numbers of schooling fish was incredible. I’d like to return another time with better conditions and a different operator. I’m not satisfied with the company experience. It wasn’t great the first two times, but it was during COVID, so things weren’t expected to be perfect, and I knew that going in. However, by now, things should be smoothed out, and having broken A/C and toilets is a no-go for me.

IMO and as a general statement not directed to anyone in particular, a liveaboard company that sues their guests does not get my business. Companies need to carefully evaluate their expansion plans and ignoring refurbishments and repairs to their existing fleet, which then diminishes the guest experience.

(To be Continued)
 

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I’m headed to the Belle Amie this weekend for a 7 day trip. I appreciate the heads up on the Rosario Suite because that was where we were supposed to stay. That has been changed and Nautilus denied any knowledge of issues with the room. This will be my fourth time to the SoC but my first on any of the Nautilus boats. I’ve always been on the Rocio Del Mar. Hopefully dive conditions have improved. I’ll let you know when we get back.
 
(Continued Report-Photos Only)

These are some unique pictures showing how critters share space. I've over-edited the Giant Fish and Eel picture to show an enormous fish, about 3 feet long, tucked into a crevice with a green moray eel on the night dive.
 

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(Continued Trip Report)

Can you help I.D. these fish?
Do you know the species of the yellow spotted eel?
Is the yellow flowery thing an anenome? The polyps were closed during the day and opened on the night dive.
 

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(Continued Trip Report)

The guide showed me a sea hare, so I took this picture, but I don't know where it is. I never actually saw it because it was so tiny. Can you tell where it is?

The second photo shows 2 eels and 5 species of fish in the same shot.
 

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