Sherwood Brut 1st- When is "roached' "toast"

[SealFashion]

Got 2 regulator sets from a co-worker that realized I like scuba.

Got them for free. One is a Brut.....it looks to be circa 1996....diaphragm cover has 1996 stamped on it.

Knew it was not working as a quick connect to a tank with 500lbs demonstrated it was not locking up.

Took it apart and as soon as I got it split about a tablespoon full of green oxide spilled out onto my table.

Piston was welded solid to the cap.....soaked it in a 50-50 mix of white vinegar and water for a good long while and pulled after brushing and picking at the crud with a whittled bamboo chopstick.

At this point I am just playing with it to see what is possible.

Is this resurrect-able?

When is "roached" actually toast.
Images 1, 2, & 3 are before trying to do anything to take the piston out

Images A, B, C and D are after soaking and eventually working out the piston

 

[happy-diver]

Nice what did you soak it in man

Bob DBF is our resident Sherwood guy

 

[SealFashion]

I am soaking it in a solution of 50% water and 50% white vinegar. Submerging it and then checking every 10-15 minutes. Brushing it with a old tooth brush and another nylon brush that is a little stiffer.

For the brushing I am using a paste made from foamy dish soap, baking soda and a little bit of water until it takes a paste like consistency.

It took like 2 hrs to work out the piston between soaks, brushing, picking at it with the bamboo stick etc.

I was really surprised to be able to get it out at all and I am just working it to see what is possible when you dedicate enough time and effort after something that is probably not worth it.

Thanks for looking and asking

 

[SealFashion]

....and obviously...I am nowhere near done...not even close

 

[happy-diver]

If you ever decide to stray from vinegar which I consider if not used only on fish & chips or salad to be wasted

Watered down phosphoric acid and more watered down hydrochloric, dripped down between the parts works
really really well and fast

If you find the where the piston slides devoid or damaged of chrome some wet and dry on a stick is very good

or on a plug of aluminium, next to some other home made keys, in the laundry

 

[SealFashion]

More cleaning needed....but progress made.

...parts are NEVER too clean

 

[axxel57]

Got 2 regulator sets from a co-worker that realized I like scuba.

Got them for free. One is a Brut.....it looks to be circa 1996....diaphragm cover has 1996 stamped on it.

Knew it was not working as a quick connect to a tank with 500lbs demonstrated it was not locking up.

Took it apart and as soon as I got it split about a tablespoon full of green oxide spilled out onto my table.

Piston was welded solid to the cap.....soaked it in a 50-50 mix of white vinegar and water for a good long while and pulled after brushing and picking at the crud with a whittled bamboo chopstick.

At this point I am just playing with it to see what is possible.

Is this resurrect-able?

When is "roached" actually toast.
Images 1, 2, & 3 are before trying to do anything to take the piston out

Images A, B, C and D are after soaking and eventually working out the piston

If you want to get some practice in servicing regs, that might be an opportunity, but to get that 1st to a 'divable' condition, would take more than a cleaning as you did.
Your 1st looks like a SRB5600, and obviously the main chamber has been flooded, what should not happen.
Since there is only a 'One Way Air Bleed Valve', which prevents water that has entered the the main spring chamber from escaping, your 1st is a typical example how the inside corrodes when the water stays in it for very long time.
Point is that for sure the 'Flow Restrictor Screw' is clogged, so you would need at least a new one and the filter, which probably costs more than the stage in the end is worth.
Without the screw and the filter the 'Dry Air Bleed System' is not working, so there is no adapting of IP to the depth.
Sorry, but that 1st is 'toast', usable still maybe for your air gun.......

 

[axxel57]

More cleaning needed....but progress made.

...parts are NEVER too clean

Nice cleaning job!
In a way you are right, but in this case 'clean' means that most all the chrome has come off the inside of the 1st, which is important especially for the running surface in the cap.
Without the chrome coating it will take only relatively short time and residues of the o-ring or other dirt will cling on the brass surface, putting strain on the dynamic o-ring, inhibiting the movement of the piston and wasting the o-ring faster than that would having with a smooth chrome coating.
In that sense I think you could have parts of a reg 'too clean'..........

 

[SealFashion]

.......for sure the 'Flow Restrictor Screw' is clogged, so you would need at least a new one and the filter, which probably costs more than the stage in the end is worth.

I entered in to this knowing that I would be doing it as an exercise of what is possible vs what is economically sensible.

As far as the parts are concerned a service kit should come with the flow restrictor and gasket right?

 

[axxel57]

No, unfortunately not.
The last time I ordered some of those, I think paid like 14,- US$ for the screw, and 3.-US$ for the filter, but that was Dealer Pricing, so I have no idea what a Shop would charge you.....