Sherwood dry bleed contaminated piston

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

What about soaking in CLR?
I didn't see that mentioned.

I had a Sherwood Brut that I purchased new in 1999. As I remember I don't think I ever saw it bubble from day one? Hmm.
I only used it as a pony reg and later sold it. Terrible breather.
I went to a MK2 instead.
 
Too bad they "upgraded" the old replaceable ceramic filter with the permanent sintered metal one.

Rob
i thought they went the other way?

The original dry bleed regs have the orifice built into the piston (as per the patent). Newer regs have a replaceable standalone flow restrictor.
 
There was a previous ceramic filter that was replaceable? That seems like a good idea.
 
My bad. Yes, ceramic came after.
Different size hole, and can't substitute the ceramic after knocking out the metal.
 
No, wait. Ceramic came first, then metal sintered, then in-the-piston bleed abandoned in favour if the Schrader valve and transmitting rods.
 
Update - I found a decent eBay deal on a 'beater'.
vintage ish suunto spg sherwood oasis regulator

And it was a beater, put away wet and salty, most of the time by the looks of it. Abundant corrosion everywhere....but, the piston is sound and the dry bleed was working. Insides were not too bad and the filter was clean. Cleaned it up, put back together with no parts replacement > IP stable @ 140 and it breathes fine. I might even take it for a test dive sometime.
 
Update - I found a decent eBay deal on a 'beater'.
vintage ish suunto spg sherwood oasis regulator

And it was a beater, put away wet and salty, most of the time by the looks of it. Abundant corrosion everywhere....but, the piston is sound and the dry bleed was working. Insides were not too bad and the filter was clean. Cleaned it up, put back together with no parts replacement > IP stable @ 140 and it breathes fine. I might even take it for a test dive sometime.
You win! (i hate you)

You can buy the raw piston for $$ or grab a whole reg set for $$ and maybe get lucky. As long as you can reliably measure how lucky you are, then life is good. I look for these types of deals, but then often have a hard time tossing the extra junk that comes with the part I want...

P.S. I will soon have some arms for sale on ebay...
 
Hello all,

I've recently come into a mixed box of parts-many of which are unrecognizable to me. However, one part I believe is a Sherwood piston (has an insert in the piston head) and it is marked with a Sharpie pen 3601-01. Is there any way to test the dry bleed without having a body to place it in? As I have no use for it, if any of you are interested in it let me know and we can work out a trade.

Thanks,

Couv
 
I think that's the newer model and the one I'm after. There should be a fair amount of vertical relief on the underside of the piston where the spring fits in. Earlier models have less relief so they look similar but aren't interchangeable. I don't know any way to test the dry bleed outside actual use in a 1st stage.
 
I'll try to upload a couple of pix:

If you have something you'd like to trade for it, let me know.

WIN_20161002_150100 (2).JPG


WIN_20161002_150736 (2).JPG
 
Last edited:

Back
Top Bottom