Snorkels

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I have little experience- I've only used four snorkels in my life- one or two days each.

Two were semi-dry with a purge in the bottom and a deflector at the top. One was open bore at the top with a purge in the bottom, and one is a J-tube.

My application is freediving where it's important to have an easy unrestricted inhale and a slow exhale.

The worst snorkel had a fairly restrictive baffle at the top. It was easy to keep dry because the baffle blocked most water from entering and the baffle created enough backpressure to make purging through the valve easy. It was horrible for a proper breathe up though because the baffle was too restrictive for a quick, easy inhale.

The next-worst was the open top with purge valve. Just blowing wouldn't clear it fully. I had to put my hand on top to create enough resistance for the purge valve to open and get the water out of the bottom.

The best so far? A simple J-tube combined with a new technique I learned last weekend. I complained of gargling salt water and Paul Kotik asked "Do you know the Hodgins Manouver?" I give a blank stare through my mask. He said just slowly exhale as you do a 360 degree roll toward the side your snorkel is on. I tried it and it drained every drop out without taking any precious energy or extra breath.
See Paul's article on the Hodgie: Water in Your Snorkel: What Is It Good For? Absolutely Nuthin!

For now I'm going to stick with the J-tube. If I tire of water splashing in I'll look for a dry-top model but only if I can find one with very low resistance to inhalation.

Another issue with snorkels is that you should spit it out before diving. Grant Graves can attest that the natural inclination to breathe in when a snorkel is in your mouth can land you in the hospital with water filled lungs. Make it a habit, even with a 100% dry model.
 
JimQPublic:
I have little experience- I've only used four snorkels in my life- one or two days each.

Two were semi-dry with a purge in the bottom and a deflector at the top. One was open bore at the top with a purge in the bottom, and one is a J-tube.

My application is freediving where it's important to have an easy unrestricted inhale and a slow exhale.

The worst snorkel had a fairly restrictive baffle at the top. It was easy to keep dry because the baffle blocked most water from entering and the baffle created enough backpressure to make purging through the valve easy. It was horrible for a proper breathe up though because the baffle was too restrictive for a quick, easy inhale.

The next-worst was the open top with purge valve. Just blowing wouldn't clear it fully. I had to put my hand on top to create enough resistance for the purge valve to open and get the water out of the bottom.

The best so far? A simple J-tube combined with a new technique I learned last weekend. I complained of gargling salt water and Paul Kotik asked "Do you know the Hodgins Manouver?" I give a blank stare through my mask. He said just slowly exhale as you do a 360 degree roll toward the side your snorkel is on. I tried it and it drained every drop out without taking any precious energy or extra breath.
See Paul's article on the Hodgie: Water in Your Snorkel: What Is It Good For? Absolutely Nuthin!

For now I'm going to stick with the J-tube. If I tire of water splashing in I'll look for a dry-top model but only if I can find one with very low resistance to inhalation.

Another issue with snorkels is that you should spit it out before diving. Grant Graves can attest that the natural inclination to breathe in when a snorkel is in your mouth can land you in the hospital with water filled lungs. Make it a habit, even with a 100% dry model.

Thanks very much for your advice. That is why i was leaning toward the "semidry" one. The idea that a valve on the top controls what goes in and out has me a little cautious. Also i want something with a relatively large bore.

Again, thanks for your help.
 
JimQPublic:
I complained of gargling salt water and Paul Kotik asked "Do you know the Hodgins Manouver?"
Awesome! You saved that man's life! Huh? Ohh sorry, wrong maneuver!:D Hey JimQPublic, thanks for the posts in the freediving forum on the clinic. I look forward to some more insight.

PS. it just dawned on me that we are actually in the freediving forum! Thanks anyway.
 
Walter:
I'll be happy to teach you to use a simple J.
why ever would you assume I don't know how to use one?

FWIW, I used to have one. I prefer others.
 
Kaiviti:
Thanks very much for your help. What are the advantages and disadvantages of the impulse 3 and the barracuda? I understand that the impulse 3 isn't "dry" but i have heard that it is relatively simply to clear. I also find that the impulse 3 has a larger bore when compared with the barracuda. Is there any place where i could get a comparison of the two?

Unfortunately i am unable to test in the pool. I wish i could.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Do crazy scuba sell directly to customers in Australia? If so, what are the prices like? The best price for both the impulse and the aeris are $70 australian. If i can get a better price, including shipping, i have no hesitation in buying it online.

Thanks again for your help.


It sounds like the Impulse 3 would better suit your needs because it has a larger bore. We sell to Australia, but cannot sell Aqualung online and cannot be shipped or mailed. Check with your local LDS for Aqualung products. Your local LDS might also be able to let you compare the two, it wouldn't hurt to ask. (Our web site has currency conversion and shipping calculator if you ever need to check on a price on something that can be sold online).

Have a great adventure!

Britt
CrazyScuba.com
 
Thanks for your help. I was leaning towards the impulse 3 and with the new clearing technique that JimQPublic has shown me, i think thats the way i will go.

Thanks for all your help
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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