Sony RX100ii + Nauticam + arms + strobes - what Stix floats do I need

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I'm fine if it's a little negatively buoyant. I'll start with the 6 Stix, and we'll see. Thank you all for your help!

(I got a good deal on a used Nauticam tray. I would have gone for the ulcs one otherwise.)

Here's what it looks like with six......
 

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Here's what it looks like with six......

That lens holder does not look in a comfortable position for me. Are you connecting an 8" segment to the handle and then a 5" or are they both 8"?

I prefer the lens holder on a 5" segment to go on the handle and the long 8" to go to the strobe
 
Cool set-up. Hey, I'm in Seattle. Maybe we'll meet one day.
 
That lens holder does not look in a comfortable position for me. Are you connecting an 8" segment to the handle and then a 5" or are they both 8"?

I prefer the lens holder on a 5" segment to go on the handle and the long 8" to go to the strobe

Definitely not ideal.
 
You can also use the center post Nauticam offers to support more buoyancy. This is what I'm using at the moment while I build up funds for strobes and arms. Not the best ergonomics but at least it keeps it from dropping like a stone.

IMG_0396.jpg
 
Have done some tests. You need 8 floats to be near to neutral. However that could be a bad idea if you leave the wide angle behind as the rig would be positive so 6 is fine. 3 on each arm segment will fit

---------- Post added February 10th, 2014 at 04:22 PM ----------

I'm fine if it's a little negatively buoyant. I'll start with the 6 Stix, and we'll see. Thank you all for your help!

(I got a good deal on a used Nauticam tray. I would have gone for the ulcs one otherwise.)

If you don't have a lens holder on your 5" arm segments you can put 8 floats which is what you need for your rig

However the whole idea of an LD mount is that you have a lens holder so I guess you forgot??

---------- Post added February 10th, 2014 at 04:23 PM ----------

You can also use the center post Nauticam offers to support more buoyancy. This is what I'm using at the moment while I build up funds for strobes and arms. Not the best ergonomics but at least it keeps it from dropping like a stone.

View attachment 177100

You can use a locline cold shoe mount and stick two floats on it. It looks ugly but works
 
Have done some tests. You need 8 floats to be near to neutral. However that could be a bad idea if you leave the wide angle behind as the rig would be positive so 6 is fine. 3 on each arm segment will fit

I'll do that.

If you don't have a lens holder on your 5" arm segments you can put 8 floats which is what you need for your rig

However the whole idea of an LD mount is that you have a lens holder so I guess you forgot??

I didn't forget but I'm mostly planning for a trip in Red Sea where the opportunities will be mostly WA so I'm not sure I need to plan to remove the lens. Still something I might do but by taking 6 Stix I can just add a lens holder at the last minute.
 
I have been working in the Red Sea at a resort. You definitely want to take the wide angle off as there are plenty of fish portraits to be taken
There is also some macro so a single UCL-165LD is a good idea as at least you have it
 
I'll be doing the Daedalus, Elphinstone, & Brothers reefs. I was led to believe that there was too much current to effectively do close-ups...?
 
There is a lot of drift diving that is true but sometimes those sites have little to no current depending on the day

I would check you can zoom through the lens up to 50mm, it should be possible as it works fine with the UFL165AD I have with no image blurring, if so you can keep the lens on otherwise something will look tiny. If not get a lens holder

I don't have the dome for the UWL-H100 so can't be more precise right now but will have something similar next week I hope
 

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