For anyone that has tried it, manual strobe control is easier than one would think and fairly easy to predict once you have used it.
Jack's comments are right on... you use the prefash setting in manual (odd, I know, why does the camera send out a preflash when it is in fixed manual mode?).
If you use too high of a setting, the strobe will not sync.. 1/64th seem to work really well.
Then it is just required that you adjust the strobes to put out the correct amount of light.
You can also just move the strobes a bit back or closer, rather than adjust the output if it is a small distance.
There are several things I like about this setup...biggest is the battery savings and the number of images you can shoot. I have not seen anyone have any issue using this system, once they take a few images with it.
In truth, optical ttl in very light conditions does not work anyway (you will get overexposed images)... so even on cameras that work well in sTTL, I switch to manual when in shallow, bright sun conditions.
Jack's comments are right on... you use the prefash setting in manual (odd, I know, why does the camera send out a preflash when it is in fixed manual mode?).
If you use too high of a setting, the strobe will not sync.. 1/64th seem to work really well.
Then it is just required that you adjust the strobes to put out the correct amount of light.
You can also just move the strobes a bit back or closer, rather than adjust the output if it is a small distance.
There are several things I like about this setup...biggest is the battery savings and the number of images you can shoot. I have not seen anyone have any issue using this system, once they take a few images with it.
In truth, optical ttl in very light conditions does not work anyway (you will get overexposed images)... so even on cameras that work well in sTTL, I switch to manual when in shallow, bright sun conditions.
