Trip Report St. Helena

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g2

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
639
Reaction score
165
Location
Port Townsend, WA
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Is St. Helena ("Hel-een-ah") in Africa? Um, I don't thinks so, but that's how you get there. Flights leave once each week from Johannesburg, South Africa, bounce through Namibia for a refueling stop, and arrive on a Saturday afternoon.

The island is beautiful, only lightly touristed, extremely vertical, and has some great diving! Feb-Mar is a good time to see whale sharks. Water temp was around 78F (25 C) with some surprising thermoclines. I was grateful for the 5mm full wetsuit I brought, and soon added a 2mm hood. The weather can be anything from cold and rainy to hot and humid, all in the same day.

Lots of wrecks, tons of fish, and some wonderful underwater geology, with caverns and swim-throughs. Here's a few pics!

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Very interesting, thanks.

A few questions, please:

Which of the two dive operators did you dive with?

You said "Water temp was around 78 (25C), with some surprising thermoclines". Any guesses as to how cold it got?

Any restaurant recommendations for lunch or dinner?

I understand that credit cards are not widely used. Did you exchange USD for St. Helena Pounds or were you able to get by with USDs or British Pounds?

Thanks.
 
Which of the two dive operators did you dive with?
I was with Dive St. Helena. Highly recommended, safe, fun and helpful. DM Craig sought the best dive sites depending on the conditions and looked for opportunities to take us to some very unusual spots.
You said "Water temp was around 78 (25C), with some surprising thermoclines". Any guesses as to how cold it got?
Probably down to 75F, which doesn't sound like much but it was sharp edged and chilly. This was in early March (late summer); I don't know how cold it gets in the winter.
Any restaurant recommendations for lunch or dinner?
Ann's Place. Fantastic pan-fried fish lunches and dinners, plus all the trimmings and a beer for about £12. I wish I could drop in there anytime. The Mantis was also good. Look for the Fish Fry at the 'Yacht Club' down in the warf area: Once each week in the evening the whole town (seemingly) gets together for fried fish or conger eel and chips, and lots of drinks. It's quite the social event and loads of fun!

Food was actually kind of a problem for me. I like to eat healthy and planned on using the kitchenette at my bungalow (The Williams Estate) for most of my meals. But the grocery stores are small and rarely have much other than a few basics, canned food, sodas, and junk food. Few or no veggies, little meat, no eggs at all. So I went to town and ate out as much as possible, which was not what I intended but the meals were good.
I understand that credit cards are not widely used. Did you exchange USD for St. Helena Pounds or were you able to get by with USDs or British Pounds?
Money is an issue. I didn't bring any British pounds, but I would recommend having at least a little to use for the first couple of days (GBP=SHP, accepted everywhere). There is a 20 pound fee on arrival but immigration does accept USD. No place else accepts dollars or rand that I saw, and the only places that accept a credit card are the bank and one grocery store in Jamestown.

Instead of bringing cash, I put the Saint Helena Bank Tourist Card app on my phone before arrival and pre-loaded it with several hundred St Helena pounds (didn't spend it all, food was less expensive than I expected). That worked out well. Many shops and restaurants accept the tourist card and may give you extra cash back if you want it. The bank can exchange cash or draw from a credit card but they have banker's hours, and flights always arrive on Saturdays -- so you should have some pounds or the Tourist Card App before arrival, otherwise you might go hungry for a couple days. There is a small bank kiosk at the airport that may be open on flight arrivals, if you're in need. There are no ATMs. Many places are closed on Saturdays and almost everything is closed on Sunday, so plan on buying groceries immediately or eating at a hotel.
 
This is pretty cool! It's about as close to the middle of nowhere as you could get!

Kind of expensive to get out there?
 
It's definitely in the middle of nowhere! But it's an interesting place. Everybody knows everybody, of course, and they all wave as you're driving around. By the end of the week I felt at home and quite welcomed.
Kind of expensive to get out there?

The flights are the expensive part. If you're frugal you can live there kinda cheap. I get the impression that a lot of the food is subsidized to some extent, keeping prices reasonable. Tourism is light, so there isn't the competitive pressure on hotel prices. There's no large hotels, for that matter. If you're an independent traveler you can probably book a nice trip including lodging, food, and rental car for, say, £150/day (excluding airfare and diving), maybe less.

Flying to South Africa sure is a long haul from the US. Yeesh. And then you'll need to pay for an overnight stopover in Johannesburg both coming and going (remember, only one flight a week to St Helena, don't miss it!), so that adds to the cost. If you're going that far, you might as well do a short safari while you're there, like I did, which can really crank up the price. No upper end on that.

Would be convenient if there was a flight from the Americas (Rio, anybody?) rather than Africa.

PS edit -- You absolutely need medical emergency evacuation insurance to catch the flight to St. Helena. They'll check for it at the Johannesburg airport. It should cover something like $250,000 or $500,000, I forget, but it's all spelled out on the St. Helena tourism web site. I found a reasonable policy on www.insuremytrip.com, which was probably over-kill since I already had DAN insurance.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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