St. Thomas/BVI Dive Resport

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Tim Ingersoll

Contributor
Messages
2,600
Reaction score
6
Location
Rochester, NY
# of dives
200 - 499
Just back from a long weekend in St. Thomas. We got a real steal on flight and stay at Sapphire Beach Resort. I was travelling with my brother who is a non-diver so I was confined to two morning two-tank dives. I followed the advice on the boards and did my diving with Chris Sawyer Dive Center and am glad I did.
Sawyer operates a shop out of the Grand Bay Resort near Red Hook. He may have other shops but that was the one we used. Boats leave at 8:00 a.m. for the morning two-tank. The boat is new, well-maintained and roomy enough. Friday is the wreck of the Rhone in the BVI. Sunday they seem to try and do something special in the BVI.
I give Chris Sawyer high marks all around for professionalism and the way they run their op. The DM's were truly concerned about the diver's welfare and spent time making sure people were hydrated (always a good sign), checking epxerience level and asking for opinions on potential sites. Underwater the DM's were attentive and watchful. Everyone goes down together and everyone comes up together. Divers in two groups based on experience and air consumption.
The first dive was right out front of the dive shop. The boat ride was literally five minutes. It was the wreck of the Major General Rogers. The wreck is a steel-hulled auxillary coastguard buoy tender, 120 feet long. Sunk in 1972 as an artificial reef. Air temp. 84 F. Water temp 82 F. Max depth 60 ft. to the sand. 40 ft. to the deck. 45 minute dive. Wreck intact and upright. Some penetration in the holds. The wreck is completely encrusted with marine growth. We spotted a very large crab under the bow and another smaller one in one of the old pipes. Small school of snapper. Not a bad wreck. Very similar to the Cayman Salvager off Key West.
The second dive was Coral Garden. Spur and groove coral formations. 50 feet for 50 minutes. I saw a spotted cleaner shrimp which was a new one for me. Funky looking creature.
The next day we did two dives in the British Virgin Islands. Bring your passport! We had to check in with British customs before diving and that involved about an hour wait. Not too bad.
The first dive was off Tobago Island, BVI. I wasn't expecting a wall dive but thats what I got. Max depth 100 feet. Dive time 40 minutes. This area seemed to have more life and is noted for occasional blacktips. We spotted a large turtle as well as a nurse shark, barracuda and a very large hogfish. Also saw a juvenile spotted drum and a Flaming Tongue. A really good dive except for low vis. 40 ft. +/-. I was surprised to find a wall like this in the VI.
The second dive was off Jost Van Dyke. 60 feet for 45 minutes. Very relaxing. Lots of very healthy coral but not many fish. Vis was really low due to the surge. Just puttered around.
Overall I found the dive op to be excellent. The diving was average but I am spoiled. On a scale of one to ten I would put the op at 8 and the diving at 5.
For what it is worth the resort was mediocre but practically free for the price we got. Thank you for whoever told me about Travelzoo.
 
Tim

Glad to see your out diving. Sounds like you give the area about the same rating as I do for diving. Decent, better than staying home but not great. Sounds like fun anyway.

Just sitting hear thinking about my Coz trip in May. Might not make it that long and might have to do a quick trip to Akumal for some Cenote diving with a couple friends.
 
5615mike once bubbled...
Tim

Sounds like you give the area about the same rating as I do for diving. Decent, better than staying home but not great. Sounds like fun anyway.

That sums it up pretty well. I have learned not complain about diving quality to anyone. You look like an ungrateful schmuck and divers invariably say: "You got wet didn't you?"
 
Tim,

I have a house on Jost Van Dyke - where did you dive? There are several sites on the north side of the island and I have a few special spots that I keep to myself... it's true that fish have been depleted. If you had been down there two weeks ago you would have seen the bays filled with dark brown water from all the dirt being washed down the hillside from the massive rain storms (brought on by unchecked development of roads and driveways). It was basically and environmental disaster and it's only going to get worse. Never mind those locals that claim to be saving the environment - their raping it. There is NO oversight of any kind of development going on in the BVI - dispite their "efforts". The worst offenders are Ivan and his White Bay Campground. He single handedly took pristine whitebay and turned into St. Thomas. And all the St. John people think he's some kind of god for running "hippie land". Yeah right. Anyhow...

I have been waiting for them to put moorings over at Tobago - it's very difficult to find a good anchoring spot since there is so much coral - in my opinion it's the best dive in the BVI. The vis you were seeing was probably left over from the weather. Usually the vis there is 100+. The wall is cool! It's one of the best places to see black coral the size of small trees. I regularly see very large pelagics there - although I have never seen a shark there.

The Rhone is alright if you get there in time to avoid the crowds - even so - penetration is almost not possible anymore because the hull seems to have collapsed slightly. Maybe there is just more coral covering the entrances.

I have never done the General Rogers, but based on your review I will probably do that now. Was there a mooring there? Did you get GPS coordinates?
 
We dove the leeward side of Jost VanDyke. I was not oriented to directions very well but if I had to guess I would say we were on the southwest tip, maybe near West End Point (could be very wrong). There were no houses in sight and no development evident. There was also no mooring and the DM confessed that he had never dove there and might never again. They had no real name for the dive site and told us we could make one up. That was pretty cool even if the diving wasn't that great (lots of surge, low vis). The DM's and locals all seemed to agree on several things re: St. Thomas and the BVI's: 1) the governments are corrupt; and 2) they do whatever they think would put the most money in the coffers with little regard for municipal planning, environmental concerns or rational forethought. Sad but true in a lot of the Caribbean.
Tobago was by far the best of the four dives. There was a mooring but it was awful close to the rocks. They moored to it but half way throught the dive the captain got nervous and cut loose. It became a drift dive but that worked just fine. The captain and DM's seemed to read each other's minds. We surfaced and had to surface swim past a point of rocks to be picked up. Short swim and zero confusion. The DM's were very concerned with keeping the group together and counted repeatedly. Very impressive overall.
There was no mooring at the General Rogers. They took their bearings from two shore sightings and dropped a DM over to take a look. They were right on the money. I am sure that Chris Sawyer's shop could give you the exact 10-20 on the wreck.
 
"Purple Tounge" based on the fact that there is a giant coral/rock formation that looks like the Rolling Stones tounge icon, but covered with purple coral. You are very right about the surge. It can be bad - especially in the winter. Generally speaking I never dive those sites in the winter, it's just too dangerous. If something happens you are screwed and will be taking a long swim to Puerto Rico.

Dive operators are generally reluctant in giving out those locations so I always bring my GPS in the bag and leave it running on the dive. Since it is so close to shore I should be able to find it on a chart. Thanks!
 
Tim, appreciate your comments about Sawyer's. Next year we are going for nine days right down the road from where you stayed, we are renting a house near the Ritz. We plan on "sneaking" away from the wives for about 5 two-tank dives. Is Sawyer's the only one in Red Hook? I thought I had heard previously somewhere that they are tough on bottom-times - but evidently that is not the case per your report. Good to know, given how close we are to them.

To your recollection, other than Coki Beach, is there any shore diving that can be done in the area?

Thanks
 
I am not aware of any shore diving in the area but then I didn't ask. Sawyer's go down and come up together. If there is a real air hog in the bunch I don't know whether they pull the plug on the dive for everyone or what. Given the surge, current low vis we experienced they would be foolish to let people just do their own thing. Good luck. Like I said I give them high marks.
 
Lived on St. Croix and visited St.Thomas a few times

Only shore diving I am aware of on St. Thomas is at Coki Beach. Two nice, small reefs about 40-45' depth, if I recall correctly

St. Croix is the best place for shore diving in the USVI

The following pages have links to local dive shops
http://www.st-thomas.com/

http://www.virginislandsparadise.com/islands/


Chris Sawyer runs a top notch operation and does day and night diving

Coki Beach Dive Shop does beach diving off of the beach
 

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