Strobe needed: Sea& Sea 1G/Sea & Sea DX-1G housing

[Eskasi]

You can't. The DX-1G only has fiber optic connection options. Ike's have only Sync Cord connections. I would get the YS- 110 in case you want to switch to DSLR later like I did. My DX-1G is now my backup camera. Another option for you is Inon which has fiber optic connection AND sync cord connection like the YS-110. the 2000 model is almost the equivalent of the YS-110. the Z240 has more output but costs a bit more.

Either way, you will need to use manual mode. The only way you could get proper exposure is if you switched the camera to Auto mode. In manual, TTL will not work. It really surprised me too when I found out. TTL works when the flash output is controlled by the camera. On the 1G, the flash output CANNOT be controlled. On auto, the camera will compensate by adjusting other in camera modes but the flash output is ALWAYS the same. This means TTL via optical connection will just dump as much light as the onboard flash. No compensation.

This is not too big an issue anyway. You will learn pretty quick what setting to use each time for Macro and adjust as such......WA and CFWA (Close focus Wide angle) is a little more difficult. Practice and multiple shots help. Use RAW and even slightly underexposed shots can be recovered.

 

[john cootes]

Dear Gustele,
I have the same camera and strobe as you, (DX-1G), but find it frustrating when the LCD screen looks so dark because of the ambient light. I have noticed quite a few reports from other divers who have the same problem: they express the hope that new "firmware" in the future might resolve this problem. Do you have the same difficulty? How do you resolve it? Do you have any idea what this "firmware" might achieve? Regards, John Cootes

 

[Eskasi]

Dear Gustele,
I have the same camera and strobe as you, (DX-1G), but find it frustrating when the LCD screen looks so dark because of the ambient light. I have noticed quite a few reports from other divers who have the same problem: they express the hope that new "firmware" in the future might resolve this problem. Do you have the same difficulty? How do you resolve it? Do you have any idea what this "firmware" might achieve? Regards, John Cootes

Hey John,

I think there is no firmware solution for this. Point and shoot cameras tend to use the LCD screen to reflect conditions if shot without flash. My advice to you is to have a torch handy. A focusing torch will help loads. I use a small Aunoc K2 LED torch or a Q40 (Before I got the amazing and tiny Aunoc) with my left hand to lock focus. I highly recommend the K2...it throws out an amazing amount of light (1 Watt) for a torch thats only slightly bigger than my thumb!

 

[gustele]

Up till now there is no solution for this other than the suggestion from Eskasi. I still use the camera without a focusing torch by just pointing the camera in the right direction and trust the autofocus. There is also a brief brightening of the screen when you gently push the shutter. Most of the time that is enough to know if the subject is within the frame. It doesn't help with focusing because the screen goes dark again.
Autofocus is quite good even on very short distances, but you have to press the macro button first if the focusing distance is very close.
I consider this the main and a major disadvantage of this camera. I agree that there can be a reason to use the LCD to reflect the lighting condition when no flash is used (although I don't know of other cameras that do this), but the camera 'knows' that I am using a flash, because I have put the flash on "always on". The problem is that this camera never takes into condiseration that a flash is used not even in automatic mode. Also then the camera tries to adjust the exposure duration and diafragm to get a good exposure without the flash. This results in long exposure times in automatic mode when using the flash giving ghost images.

I am hoping for a firmware upgrade but the user manual nowhere talks about how to apply a firmware upgrade so possibly the vendor did not foresee a firmware upgrade.

 

[john cootes]

Hey, Gustele; Hey, Eskasi,

Thank you both for your kind consideration of my query. I will work on implementing your suggestions as soon as this ghastly weather clears here in Newcastle, Australia!
I am absolutely thrilled with some of the photos I have taken with the DX-1G on our beautiful Great Barrier Reef - it's just that I would love to be able to frame the shots a little better before clicking that shutter button. Regards, (and thanks again), JOHN.