Strobe vs Custom WB Help for Beginners

[Bazal]

Heya,


So within the next two weeks - going to Cozumel on a diving trip for 1 week. I need a crash course!!! So here goes - HELP!!


Anyway - would love to take pictures/film on this trip. I have close to 30 dives so I never really attempted underwater photography (except once and my setup got flooded on the second tank dive so I have no idea if my settings worked or not). My new current set-up is a Canon G7 Power Shot + Fantasea housing and a fisheye lens. I'm trying to go as simple as possible.


The issue I have trouble is LIGHTNING!! As one knows colors fade the deeper you go starting with red and ending with violet/blue. I'm thinking of two things


1- Y03 Sea and Sea Strobe - BUT I heard it tends to overexpose pictures - now last time I tried this I used "cloud" setting under white balance (no idea how it worked b/c again it flooded). Any suggestions if I go this route? Should I also perhaps also darken the picture -1/3 to -2/3?


2- Custom White Balance - I've never done this before and I worry about "fumbling" underwater too much (see latter point). I'm assuming if you go this route then you may not need a strobe I do have a white slate with me - but correct me if I'm wrong - isn't a "true white balance" 18% grey? So a white slate technically isn't a true measure... or am I losing my mind? Also - if I do go this route - how often (feet?) do I have to adjust my white balance - aka fumbling?


3- Yes this is off topic - but perhaps someone might know/help about this (don't want a separate thread for it). Before my first set-up flooded, I remember looking at the pictures through the tiny screen at the back - I remember there were a ton of super tiny "bubbles" in them. Now I know for a fact that wasn't my breathing. Could it be air got trapped as I placed the fisheye lens on the set up? I followed the directions and hooked it on AFTER I went underwater - any advice on how to avoid this?


I know some of you will likely mention this so here goes - If at any point I feel like photography/videography is effecting my ability to dive, I would stop!!



Anyway - any help/advice/suggestions/comments are appreciate!!!

PS. Feel free to message me if you want too.

Thanks!!!

 

[Hoag]

I am not that familiar with the G7, but I can offer a few tips that might help.

First of all, shoot in RAW. That will give you the most flexibility in post production. You will be able to adjust both exposure and white balance.

Secondly, become very familiar with your camera. Like I said, I don't know the capabilities of the G7, but if you find that your shots are getting blown out by the strobe, rather than under exposing the image, see if there is a menu to adjust the flash output. If there is, then expose you shot the way you normally would and decrease the power going to the flash. (This should in turn reduce the power triggering the YS-03 strobe.)

An 18% neutral grey card is a great way to ensure an accurate white balance, however, even with a custom white balance the reds and other colours are simply gone. Custom white balance will not restore what is no longer there. A strobe (or 2) will be required to add back the missing colours. Keep in mind though that even strobes will have somewhat limited effect beyond a few feet.

 

[Larry C]

Your strobe will only be effective for pictures within 1-3 feet. Set your Shutter speed to give you the background color you want, use your aperture setting for foreground exposure. Start with minimal strobe setting. Check your preview when you're done. I recommend setting the camera to show blown highlights. If the foreground is too dark, try turning up the strobe. If still too dark, adjust the aperture one setting at a time. If you're getting bubbles (backscatter) your strobe is too close to the port and pointed too directly at the subject. Adjust your strobe so that only the edge of the light hits your subject. Good luck.

 

[Skeptic14]

I don't have experience with the g7, but with my tg-4 and ys-03 I've found the exposure to be pretty good in ttl. If you feel it's overexposed you might be able to dial the exposure compensation down some.

The g7 I believe has "easy" white balance functionality but as mentioned already, if you shoot in raw you can deal with that in post processing. As far as not needing a strobe, wb and filters can only help for so long. As you go deeper they'll provide diminishing returns.

The tiny "bubbles" might have been backscatter? Was your internal flash firing? If it was and you weren't extremely close to your subject you'd get lots of reflection bubbles/particles aka backscatter.

It's also possible it was air bubbles between your wet lens; you can unscrew it some if you see them and "burp" it to try to get them out.

I would suggest you go the strobe route; good water clarity like cozumel can be more forgiving to shooting ambient BUT strobes just bring out vivid colors so well.

Also, I've never been to cozumel but I've read it can be a difficult location for uw photography because of the drifting nature and current. Being new to uw photography and diving in general might compound it further, just keep that in mind.

Remember, get close, within 1-2 feet, don't shoot down, instead try to shoot level or up and if you aren't within 3 feet of your subject your strobe will not light it.

 

[Bazal]

Okay so - I plan on shooting in both RAW + JPEG (simultaneously). I guess it's better to dial down the flash compensation - since the Y03 is a TTL - forced flash. Min setting is -2 for the flash compensation. In other words gotta shoot in P/Av/Tv/M >___<

If I do that - then maybe I shouldn't have to worry about WB or setting it to cloudy.

@Tiny Bubbles - possibly back light scatter... because it did ironically happen during my visit to Mexico in Cozumel. It was a drift dive and I saw a grandfather GIANT turtle.... so I grabbed a rock/boulder attached to the bottom and tried shooting the turtle - but as you know I couldn't get close to it. So it sounds like a possibility.

Now I'm just trying to envision the ideal setting or one that works for Av/Tv mode... I think I'm going to have my ISO in Auto. If I shoot Manuel I may try f/8 and 1/125 as a start. Any advice on how I should think this through.

Thanks again!

 

[crabbyfiddler]

Okay so - I plan on shooting in both RAW + JPEG (simultaneously). I guess it's better to dial down the flash compensation - since the Y03 is a TTL - forced flash. Min setting is -2 for the flash compensation. In other words gotta shoot in P/Av/Tv/M >___<

If I do that - then maybe I shouldn't have to worry about WB or setting it to cloudy.

@Tiny Bubbles - possibly back light scatter... because it did ironically happen during my visit to Mexico in Cozumel. It was a drift dive and I saw a grandfather GIANT turtle.... so I grabbed a rock/boulder attached to the bottom and tried shooting the turtle - but as you know I couldn't get close to it. So it sounds like a possibility.

Now I'm just trying to envision the ideal setting or one that works for Av/Tv mode... I think I'm going to have my ISO in Auto. If I shoot Manuel I may try f/8 and 1/125 as a start. Any advice on how I should think this through.

Thanks again!

You are getting some great advice. I first shot a G10 and then purchased a G12 (since changed again), which may be a little bit more customizable than the 7. My advice, in addition to what others has said is...check out the current and dial in your buoyancy on the first dive. Then carry the camera after you're feeling at home again. Secondly, get close to your subject. If you are using a single strobe, adjust the angle so that the edge of the light is on the subject rather than full on. Between that and getting close, you may be able to reduce the backscatter. Play with it and have fun!

And, if the current is ripping, just dive and enjoy seeing what you see. (just my opinion!) Nothing worse than fighting current to try for some nifty shot that leaves you huffing, puffing or frustrated.