Trip Report: Loreto

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I lived in Loreto for four and a half years ... having just moved away three months ago. I'm surprised to read your review of Blue Nation, since I've done hundreds of dives with them and never had a bad experience. But no dive company is 100%, and it's possible they had a bad day. As you say, Dolphin Dive is also a really good outfit to work with. Besides those two, there are a few companies that offer various tourist services, among them scuba diving ... they're hit or miss in terms of quality of experience, but some are worth using if the other two dive ops are already booked.

If I had to pick a "favorite" month to dive it would be October. The water is still warm and clear, the air temps are not so hot, and the seasonal folks haven't begun arriving just yet ... they usually come in November and December. The water gets really cold in winter ... down to the low 60's by February, and beginning to warm up in April or May. Most of that's due to seasonal currents causing upwellings ... which often makes for poor visibility ... but it also brings with it the reason for the whales in the winter months. Blue whales are the largest animals that ever existed on earth .... and you can see them every winter right there in Loreto's "front yard". Spring brings with it heavy, heavy schools of sardines, and all the larger predators that feed on them. In March 2021 I had the experience of watching a bubble-hunting humpback whale breaching with its mouth wide open ... it was so close to town people were standing on the malecon watching the show. June brings the migrations of mobula rays ... those ones that leap into the air flapping their wings and doing backflips. It's quite the show. Dolphins are abundant most of the seasons ... both the bottlenose and their more numerous smaller cousins, the common dolphins. Later in the year, orcas tend to come in ... we watched them hunting dolphins once. It was a brutal display of nature, but quite the experience to watch ... fortunately they waited till we were out of the water (yes, we were scuba diving) before the real action started ... but they were all around us when we surfaced from the dive.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that every season has its highlights out in the park. But unless you're into cold water and relatively low vis, Loreto's probably not the best choice for a winter vacation. Go in late spring or early fall for the best vacation diving.

Besides the diving, there's paddleboarding, kayaking, and fishing for water activities. Hiking ... yeah, for vacationers I'd suggest hiring a guide, as the mountains are steep, rugged, and for the most part private property ... Tabor Canyon is one of the rare hikes on public land in the area. Locals and expats tend to know where and how to go, but for tourists I'd say a guide is best option. For those interested in something a bit unique, inquire about Mesquite Canyon ... and be prepared to do portions of the hike wading through pools of water in a canyon that's, at times, just a few meters wide. It's a signature hike in that area.

Spend a day at San Javier ... a ranching town about 25 miles into the mountains. Take a mule ride in those mountains ... several of the tourist services companies offer them. Hire a sailboat out of Puerto Escondido ... about 15 miles south of town ... and go visit the park's islands ... they're spectacular.

It's a beautiful place ... I left it for my own reasons, but much of my heart remains in that particular little slice of paradise ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Thanks for the comments, especially those about the sea life in different months. Perhaps we'll come back in late spring too, in addition to coming back in Sept or October. We're quite taken with the place.

I'm sure we must have caught Blue Nation on an off day. I could see that they were a first rate company. But a so-so experience with a dive guide can color one's perception. We still had a good day with them and would not hesitate to use them if Dolphin Dive Baja was booked up.
 
Many divers like to hit a variety of places over the course of their travel diving; those destinations someone hits repeatedly (as opposed to adding new 'bucket list' destinations) therefore merit a closer look...and you're considering a 3rd trip.

Nice to see a trip report on Loreto.

Diving: We’ve been impressed. We thought the diving was better than Belize, Grand Cayman, Turks/Caicos, Kona or Maui!
I've dove the 1st 3 of those; never been to Hawaii or Baja California. From the past reports I've seen, it's my understanding Baja California is about schools of medium fish (e.g.: grunts and jacks), and sea lions, but is not known for lush coral reefs. Is that accurate in your experience?

I ask because how 'good' a destination is often depends on what a given diver is looking for.
stone fish
Did you mean scorpionfish? I ask because true stonefish aren't found in the Caribbean, but scorpionfish are mistaken for them. I'm aware Baja California is Pacific Ocean, not Caribbean Sea, and I'm curious as to what they have.
Beware, though, it is a SLEEPY little town. If you are looking for night life or nice restaurants, this is not the place.
How many dives could you do per day? Destinations and operators where people can do 3 or 4 dives/day may not need much topside (unless one is taking along pesky non-divers), but if you're limited to 2, topside diversions become more important.
 
Many divers like to hit a variety of places over the course of their travel diving; those destinations someone hits repeatedly (as opposed to adding new 'bucket list' destinations) therefore merit a closer look...and you're considering a 3rd trip.

Nice to see a trip report on Loreto.


I've dove the 1st 3 of those; never been to Hawaii or Baja California. From the past reports I've seen, it's my understanding Baja California is about schools of medium fish (e.g.: grunts and jacks), and sea lions, but is not known for lush coral reefs. Is that accurate in your experience?

I ask because how 'good' a destination is often depends on what a given diver is looking for.

Did you mean scorpionfish? I ask because true stonefish aren't found in the Caribbean, but scorpionfish are mistaken for them. I'm aware Baja California is Pacific Ocean, not Caribbean Sea, and I'm curious as to what they have.

How many dives could you do per day? Destinations and operators where people can do 3 or 4 dives/day may not need much topside (unless one is taking along pesky non-divers), but if you're limited to 2, topside diversions become more important.
2 dives per day were all we did. I think their website says they offer night dives & afternoon dives but we didn't look into it and honestly, we were the only divers going out the last few days so I'm not sure they have requests for more.

Yes, stonefish=scorpion fish. The fish book our dive guide showed us called them 'stone scorpion fish'. The underwater sign was a fist, like a rock.

We did one deeper 90+' dive to see the black coral forest (black coral skeleton with lime green polyps/skin). There were other deep water corals & fans in white/creme and rust colors. (Read about Loreto's corals here: Coral forests of Loreto - Baja Dive Guide). In general, though, there was not much coral on the shallower dives-- mainly rock formations, covered in algae. Some of the formations were really good though.

We've been doing 2 or 3 warm water dive trips per year recently We live in CA so, for us, Loreto is an easy, convenient, nearby dive location for one of those trips per year.....closer and less expensive than Hawaii and much easier than going to the Caribbean. We'll go other places as well this year-- Raja Ampat & Ningaloo Reef are up next.

Wish I could post photos/ videos but attachments aren't allowed right now on this site.
 
I'll add some thoughts to add to what Hiker11 posted ...
Many divers like to hit a variety of places over the course of their travel diving; those destinations someone hits repeatedly (as opposed to adding new 'bucket list' destinations) therefore merit a closer look...and you're considering a 3rd trip.
Besides places like Loreto there are some other places in the Sea of Cortez that merit considering. La Paz ... roughly 200 miles south of Loreto is one such place. Also, during the summer months, Mexico Liveaboards offers a liveaboard experience, both of the northern Sea of Cortez (beginning in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora) and a longer excursion that hits both La Paz and Loreto, as well as those northern sites. I've done three liveaboard experiences with them, and they're excellent.

Also, from Cabo, you can liveaboard down to the Revillagigedos (aka "Socorro Islands") ... which, having done them both, I would rate as better diving than the Galapagos. That trip, in particular, is to see the large pelagic animals such as giant manta rays, sharks, dolphins, and ... during certain times of the year ... humpback whales and whale sharks.

Nice to see a trip report on Loreto.


I've dove the 1st 3 of those; never been to Hawaii or Baja California. From the past reports I've seen, it's my understanding Baja California is about schools of medium fish (e.g.: grunts and jacks), and sea lions, but is not known for lush coral reefs. Is that accurate in your experience?
The Sea of Cortez, in general, is not famous for corals ... and most of the corals you'll see there are hard corals ... which, yes, can be mistaken at times for rocks. But there are some really colorful places. In Loreto, my favorite place for those is at the sea lion rookery, right out on the point, at 70 feet and below. The currents pushing around this point have created a colorful coral garden that would rival many places in the Caribbean that are famous for such things. And also, just off the south coast of Carmen Island, a site we call "The Abyss", which (again due to currents) has a lot of corals. And, as Hiker11 said, the black corals are ubiquitous at depths below 70 feet or so.

Did you mean scorpionfish? I ask because true stonefish aren't found in the Caribbean, but scorpionfish are mistaken for them. I'm aware Baja California is Pacific Ocean, not Caribbean Sea, and I'm curious as to what they have.
Yes ... scorpionfish. Also, to point out, although they're attached, the Sea of Cortez is quite different in many aspects from the Pacific Ocean in terms of sea life.

How many dives could you do per day? Destinations and operators where people can do 3 or 4 dives/day may not need much topside (unless one is taking along pesky non-divers), but if you're limited to 2, topside diversions become more important.
When the liveaboards pass through, they usually offer four dives per day. Otherwise, 2 dives in the morning is typical ... 3 if the guests on board want, but that's often dependent on what the wind does. Wind is a concern for the land-based operations primarily because it typically comes up in the afternoon and the diving is done by panga ... and you always have to consider the ride back to the marina after your dives. I've been on some wild rides when we pushed for that third dive ... or when the wind picks up earlier than usual. Dive boats are real basic in this part of the world ... and that needs to be taken into account.

.... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
Hey everyone,

I'm considering a dive trip to La Paz over Thanksgiving. Anyone have experience with diving there? Any thoughts about here vs. other places on Baja?

Thanks!
 
Hey everyone,

I'm considering a dive trip to La Paz over Thanksgiving. Anyone have experience with diving there? Any thoughts about here vs. other places on Baja?

Thanks!
La Paz has some pretty good diving that time of year. Again, though, it ain't warm water diving. It's not bad, but you'll be wearing at least a 5 mil.

Their sea lions are a lot more interactive than the ones further north ... but it's a bit of a ride getting out to the rookery. La Paz also has a couple shipwrecks, and some nice coral reefs filled with fish life. And the town's not nearly as touristy as either Los Cabos to the south, or Loreto to the north. But that weekend's the kick-off to "high season", so I'd suggest getting your dates booked fairly soon.

You'll miss the whale sharks by about a month ... they start coming in around mid-December, but they don't let the boats go out until there are a certain number in the area ... and that comes a couple weeks after.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
I'll add some thoughts to add to what Hiker11 posted ...

Besides places like Loreto there are some other places in the Sea of Cortez that merit considering. La Paz ... roughly 200 miles south of Loreto is one such place. Also, during the summer months, Mexico Liveaboards offers a liveaboard experience, both of the northern Sea of Cortez (beginning in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora) and a longer excursion that hits both La Paz and Loreto, as well as those northern sites. I've done three liveaboard experiences with them, and they're excellent.

Also, from Cabo, you can liveaboard down to the Revillagigedos (aka "Socorro Islands") ... which, having done them both, I would rate as better diving than the Galapagos. That trip, in particular, is to see the large pelagic animals such as giant manta rays, sharks, dolphins, and ... during certain times of the year ... humpback whales and whale sharks.


The Sea of Cortez, in general, is not famous for corals ... and most of the corals you'll see there are hard corals ... which, yes, can be mistaken at times for rocks. But there are some really colorful places. In Loreto, my favorite place for those is at the sea lion rookery, right out on the point, at 70 feet and below. The currents pushing around this point have created a colorful coral garden that would rival many places in the Caribbean that are famous for such things. And also, just off the south coast of Carmen Island, a site we call "The Abyss", which (again due to currents) has a lot of corals. And, as Hiker11 said, the black corals are ubiquitous at depths below 70 feet or so.


Yes ... scorpionfish. Also, to point out, although they're attached, the Sea of Cortez is quite different in many aspects from the Pacific Ocean in terms of sea life.


When the liveaboards pass through, they usually offer four dives per day. Otherwise, 2 dives in the morning is typical ... 3 if the guests on board want, but that's often dependent on what the wind does. Wind is a concern for the land-based operations primarily because it typically comes up in the afternoon and the diving is done by panga ... and you always have to consider the ride back to the marina after your dives. I've been on some wild rides when we pushed for that third dive ... or when the wind picks up earlier than usual. Dive boats are real basic in this part of the world ... and that needs to be taken into account.

.... Bob (Grateful Diver)
We've not done diving in La Paz, Cabo Pulmo or Cabo-- how do they compare with Loreto in terms of crowds and sea life? I heard that a few sites are extraordinary at Cabo Pulmo (Bull Sharks, bait balls) but that other than those, it's not that special. And the marine park is not as big as Loreto's--Although maybe that doesn't matter?. We love the lack of crowds in Loreto so we've avoided LP and CSL-- but maybe those aren't as bad as we imagine they are? Your thoughts?
 
We've not done diving in La Paz, Cabo Pulmo or Cabo-- how do they compare with Loreto in terms of crowds and sea life? I heard that a few sites are extraordinary at Cabo Pulmo (Bull Sharks, bait balls) but that other than those, it's not that special. And the marine park is not as big as Loreto's--Although maybe that doesn't matter?. We love the lack of crowds in Loreto so we've avoided LP and CSL-- but maybe those aren't as bad as we imagine they are? Your thoughts?
I really like diving in La Paz ... and have done it fairly often, as I have friends down there, including one particular dive operator. The diving's a bit more expensive than Loreto because the sites are further away ... and one has to cover the costs of getting to and from the diving. And in winter, La Paz has the whale sharks ... you snorkel with those, as they're mostly on the surface. Of all the places in the world I've swam with whale sharks, I like La Paz the best because of how they regulate boat and human interactions to protect the animals.

I've been to Cabo Pulmo three times ... and have yet to experience those great sites that get pitched so often. They limit the number of boats that can go there per week ... so unless you win the "lottery", you're not going to see them ... and the other sites are real pedestrian compared to other places I've been in the Sea of Cortez. So I think it's really a roll of the dice whether or not you'll get to experience the best that place has to offer. Frankly, I prefer the diving in Loreto, as you can go see their "best sites" whenever you want to ... and it's rare to have to share a dive site with another dive boat in Loreto.

I've dived Los Cabos a few times ... mostly when I was going to be down there anyway for some other purpose. It's OK ... if you're a tourist in Los Cabos, it's worthwhile. But compared to other parts of the Sea of Cortez that I've dived, it's really not that exciting.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
I really like diving in La Paz ... and have done it fairly often, as I have friends down there, including one particular dive operator. The diving's a bit more expensive than Loreto because the sites are further away ... and one has to cover the costs of getting to and from the diving. And in winter, La Paz has the whale sharks ... you snorkel with those, as they're mostly on the surface. Of all the places in the world I've swam with whale sharks, I like La Paz the best because of how they regulate boat and human interactions to protect the animals.

I've been to Cabo Pulmo three times ... and have yet to experience those great sites that get pitched so often. They limit the number of boats that can go there per week ... so unless you win the "lottery", you're not going to see them ... and the other sites are real pedestrian compared to other places I've been in the Sea of Cortez. So I think it's really a roll of the dice whether or not you'll get to experience the best that place has to offer. Frankly, I prefer the diving in Loreto, as you can go see their "best sites" whenever you want to ... and it's rare to have to share a dive site with another dive boat in Loreto.

I've dived Los Cabos a few times ... mostly when I was going to be down there anyway for some other purpose. It's OK ... if you're a tourist in Los Cabos, it's worthwhile. But compared to other parts of the Sea of Cortez that I've dived, it's really not that exciting.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Thanks for your helpful comments. Makes me more convinced than ever that Loreto is a gem.
 
I was looking for an easy to get to, good quality dive location with lots of water-based activities for a non-diver. Ideally, it would have rentals for sea kayaks, SUPs, 2-person sailboats, windsurfing, etc... as well as some inland stuff. Loreto sounds like that's as close as I'm going to get for all of that.
 

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