Trip Report Sep 13-20.

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charlesml3

Contributor
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Location
Raleigh, NC
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Hi gang,

Just got back from Coz late last night and here's a report from the trip:

Flights were fine. No delays. RDU to DFW, DFW to COZ. I like flying on Wednesdays. The flights are hardly every full and almost all of the passengers are business travelers. It suits me.

Hotel: The Barracuda. Always been my favorite place place to stay. The hurricane was actually GOOD for the Barracuda. The new pool is awesome and a huge improvement.

State of the Island: Cozumel has bounced back nicely from the hurricane. There are still numerous waterfront lots that are nothing but rubble. Some have clearly not been touched since the hurricane. The lot just North of the Barracuda is a good example. The lot just South of Jeannie's Waffles is another. The old Dolphin prizon is still just rubble as well. Some places are better than before. Ernesto's did a big renovation and looks nice. The little beach out front isn't there anymore, however. There was some squatter gift-shop between Ernesto's and Scuba Shak that's still rubble and a burned out Palapa now. Ernesto and I talked about it for quite a while and he doesn't know when they're going to clean it up. It's tied up in some court battle apparently. Scuba Shak/Roberta's Eco-Dive took a massive hit right there on the water. It destroyed the pier, rinse tank, locker room and dive shop. They're rebuilding and have temporarily moved across the street.

I spent some time talking with Ernesto, Robert Cwertina and Juan over at the Barracuda regarding the general state of the island. We all agreed that Coz has about one more year to go before it's back to the way it was.

Dive Operator: I've been diving with Roberta's Eco-Dive Cozumel since it was called Blue Bubble. There may be dive ops that do things differently. They may even be better, but I've known Roberta for years and I know all of her staff. The DMs know my skill level and always let me dive my own profile. I started diving Nitrox a couple of years ago when I kept running up against deco limits. I'm blessed with very good air consumption so Nitrox let's me stay under those NDLs now.

The Diving: OK, I know this is the part that everyone wants to read. It's going to be very difficult for me to write this. Nobody loves Cozumel more than I do and I know they desperately need our dollars to rebuild and stay in business. All of the Dive Ops are hurting. On the other hand, I have to be honest and give my most unbiased report on the diving. Talk about being on the horns of a dilemma... I thought about this a lot on the way home and I've decided against substituting the word "different" for "poor" or "mediocre" to make it seem better than it is. Last September, I took as many as 50 photos per dive over the week. This trip, I took maybe 50 total the entire time. It was difficult to find anything really nice to photograph. I'm not a marine biologist so I have no idea how long it's going to take before the reefs recover.

We made 15 dives. They ranged from "Poor" to "Fairly Good." Specifically:

-Santa Rosa - Poor. This was always my favorite dive site in Cozumel. It looks just awful now. I tried it from as deep as 95 feet all the way up to 45 feet. There are very few of the large barrel sponges left. Fingertip coral is littered everywhere. There are no fan corals at all. Sand is covering everything else. Very few colors.

-Colombia Deep - Poor. Same as Santa Rosa.

-Palancar Gardens - Fairly good. This and Palancar Horseshoe were the only dives we elected to repeat during the week. Again, nothing at all what it was pre-Wilma but a decent dive. Lots of anemones.

-Chankanaab - Poor. Lots of damage here. I really didn't recognize it as the same reef I dove a year ago.

-Las Palmas - No report. The DM wouldn't even take us there. He said it wasn't worth diving.

-Palancar Horseshoe - Fairly good. Better below 80 feet or so. Anemones. Some turtles. Small black-tip reef sharks way down below us.

-Colombia Shallow - Good. This is the most surprising of all the reefs. It's very shallow and I expected it to have taken a huge beating but it looks pretty good. Probably the most enjoyable dive we made all week.

-Palancar Caves - Also fairly good. It seems that reefs further South looked quite a bit better.

-Paso de Cedral. - Hard to say, really. There was a fast current the day we dove it. Went in at the Southern tip and I came up at Santa Rosa wall! It looked fairly good, however.

-San Francisco - Fair. Lots and lots of sand covering the reef. Everything just seemed so monochromatic.

The rest of the dives were similar. We dove the C-53 on the last day. Very fast current made this a difficult dive. We were getting pushed around even inside the wreck. I spoke with some other divers that said Punta Sur and Maracaibo were in pretty good shape.

I'm planning a dive trip with a buddy this February and I really can't decide what to do. I love Cozumel and want to go back, but I can only afford one week long trip and one long weekend trip per year. I don't know. Maybe a trip to Turks and Caicos or Roatan this time.

Overall we had a good time but it was just not the same place. I know a couple of the divers in my group were pretty disappointed and I understand that. We all want to go back...

-Charles
 
Thanks for the report...did you get a chance to dive the new wrecks?
 
Hey Jim,

I asked about the new wrecks but the DM indicated they weren't very interesting yet. I'm not suprised. It'll take time for the fish to find a home there and start getting some growth.

Thanks!

-Charles
 
Las Palmas - No report. The DM wouldn't even take us there. He said it wasn't worth diving.
?????????????
We went to Las Palmas the last 2 trips on our night dives. Seemed good to me. Maybe the DM just didn't want to dive it that day/night.
 
Fin,

I really don't know but I didn't press the matter. We'd already realized by then that most of the best diving was South. From then, we would go as far South as we could.

If we'd had more experienced divers on-board, we would have done Punta Sur and Maracaibo.

It was really eerie seeing the reefs like this. It almost felt like I was diving somewhere else.

I'm hoping someone will chime in here who dove:

-Right after the hurricane.

-Six months after that.

-Within the last few weeks.

I'd love to get an idea of how quickly the reefs are recovering.

-Charles
 
charlesml3:
Fin, I really don't know but I didn't press the matter. We'd already realized by then that most of the best diving was South. From then, we would go as far South as we could.


It could have been that after diving with you for a few days and listening to your comments on what you had seen, he figured that you might not see anything there of interest to you. I was on Cuzumel in January and then again in May, and I felt that way about both Las Palmas and Yucab - went once and decided they were not worth going back to yet. That said, I talked to a guy who saw a bunch of eagle rays at Las Palmas the same day we passed on it, so you never know.

I have a "glass half full" attitude about the diving around Cozumel. True, there is nowhere you can go around there that doesn't show at least some hurricane damage; Wilma raked its southern eyewall slowly up the western coast and everywhere got hit hard. I did see a marked improvement on some of the sites in the 5 months between trips.

At any rate, I had a great time there on both trips, and I am scheduled to go back in May. It's still the best bang for my buck. YMMV.
 
Gordon,

Well, that would be true if I'd actually said anything to the DM regarding the other dives. I know they have to make a living diving any site the customers want so discussing the relative value of any particular site isn't all that helpful.

Our group only discussed it at dinner. I agree that Coz is a great bang for your buck. Just not the bang it used to be. :( I think we'll see some improvements as time goes on.

-Charles
 
charlesml3:
Gordon,

Well, that would be true if I'd actually said anything to the DM regarding the other dives. I know they have to make a living diving any site the customers want so discussing the relative value of any particular site isn't all that helpful.

Our group only discussed it at dinner. I agree that Coz is a great bang for your buck. Just not the bang it used to be. :( I think we'll see some improvements as time goes on.

-Charles

Yeah, I hear you. I try to be philosophical about these things, y'know; I try not to waste energy bemoaning something I can't do anything about. Those of us lucky enough to have seen it before Wilma's visit will always know the diff, but it's still worth going there, IMO.

One of the reasons the Coz reef system was so great before was that a storm has to hit the island exactly wrong to hit those protected reefs and do that kind of damage, and it hadn't happened in a very long time. But 2005 was that kind of year for hurricanes; much the same could be said about New Orleans.
 
Gang,

I know this has been noted several times here, but I have to say it again:

-Do NOT rent scooters in Cozumel.

At the airport on Wednesday there was some guy sitting there in the chairs all banged up. Arm in a sling, road rash everywhere. I walked right over and said, "Scooter accident, eh?" He said "How did you know?" The worst part of this is he'd been on the island less than 24 hours and was flying home for surgery on his arm. Ugh.

I don't think I've ever flown out of of the airport in Coz when I DIDN'T see someone all beat up from a scooter accident.

-Charles
 
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