Video Housing

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

jazscam

Registered
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Victoria, BC
Has anyone here tried to make housig for a video camera? I have been searching the net a found a couple article on metal housing, but I hae no knowledge in the art of welding. I figured plastics would be more my bag. I am thinking of modifiying a clear pelican case, or somthing like that that. Any thoughts or advice on the subject would be helpful.

The camera I have is a sony DCRPC105, one of the small one camcorders that is taller longer.

I would like to be able to manipulate the start/stop and zoom bottons.

Size and functionability are more important than neatness.

I would like to go to depths of about100'.

Thanks,
J
 
Here's a link to the DIY scuba sight. http://insel.heim.at/malediven/350052/english.htm
There are anumber of home built housings,
Including my own. http://insel.heim.at/malediven/350052/mikedo_e.htm

I have dived with it to 100ft routinely.
zoom is not nessessary, just swim in to zoom.

regards

Mike D

jazscam:
Has anyone here tried to make housig for a video camera? I have been searching the net a found a couple article on metal housing, but I hae no knowledge in the art of welding. I figured plastics would be more my bag. I am thinking of modifiying a clear pelican case, or somthing like that that. Any thoughts or advice on the subject would be helpful.

The camera I have is a sony DCRPC105, one of the small one camcorders that is taller longer.

I would like to be able to manipulate the start/stop and zoom bottons.

Size and functionability are more important than neatness.

I would like to go to depths of about100'.

Thanks,
J
:dazzler1:
 
Search here for Padipro and check out his MSN site. Lots of info on building lights and housings. I built one this spring using his basic design. I used 6" PVC pipe (heavy wall stuff made for watermains, over 1/2" thick) and 1/2" plexi for the ends. So far I've had it to 106 feet, no leaks etc. Works better than I expected, camera does better than my eyes in low light levels.

I would not bother with a zoom control (I did). With the magnifying effect of water, unless you've got over 100 feet of viz, it's useless. I'm actually planning on modifying the end to accomodate a wide angle adapter (and you can't use the zoom with the wide angle adapter in place).
 
jazscam:
Has anyone here tried to make housig for a video camera? I have been searching the net a found a couple article on metal housing, but I hae no knowledge in the art of welding. I figured plastics would be more my bag. I am thinking of modifiying a clear pelican case, or somthing like that that. Any thoughts or advice on the subject would be helpful.

The camera I have is a sony DCRPC105, one of the small one camcorders that is taller longer.

I would like to be able to manipulate the start/stop and zoom bottons.

Size and functionability are more important than neatness.

I would like to go to depths of about100'.

Thanks,
J


Hello Jazscam,

I am using a Dolphin case from Ocean Images Inc. Great case - Cost about a $1,000

http://www.oceanimagesinc.com/products/housings/pc_series/pc_series_housings.htm

I upgrade my camera from a DCR-PC120 to a DCR-PC350 and Ocean Images retro fitted my case....

I you have DSL - Check out some of my videos.
http://www.idi.bz/sg_lsd32/UWvideo.htm

Glenn
 
Nice video. While your case is nice and I'm sure your camera dies higher quality with more control. My homebuilt looks a bit like this one http://www.oceanimagesinc.com/products/housings/custom/customhousing.htm Cost a bit under $200 US (I could do it again for a lot less, found some cheaper suppliers) and I use a Samsung camera that was about $350 US, so I could do 2 complete rigs, just for the price of your case. May try and build a more compact all plexi unit this winter (have found a good source for the necessary adhesive to glue the plexi). Just need to sort out a method to install an O-ring in squared case (had a machinist use a lathe to turn the groove in the round case, my router attempt did not work so well).
 
Groundhog246:
Nice video. While your case is nice and I'm sure your camera dies higher quality with more control...............

Hello GroundHog,

I agree, your case is petty amazing. Very ingenious! I don't have the time or patience to build my own case.

best regards, Glenn
 
Yeah, I don't expect you get much snow in Key Largo. Not much (I usually do some) diving in the winter months, boat is laid up on the hard. So getting ready for next season helps fill the time.

Do you get enough vis to make use of the zoom feature on yours?

On the DIY front, I saw a neat idea while back. He glued magnetic reed switches, connected to the cameras remote control, inside the rear cover and used a small magnet on a finger ofhis glove to activate them. No holes for camera controls in the housing. Unlike Sony, most cameras, especially low end, don't have connection for external controls. I think I could do similar using a small solenoid and a battery (mine doesn't have a remote either).
 
hello Groundhog,

I use the zoom feature a lot. I just got a Sony DCR-PC350, it will zoom and focus on an subject area approximately 1 inch x 1 inch about 18 inch from the lens. It is hard to hold the camera still with this extreme focal length. I have taken a tripod down with me to assist when i am doing macro close ups. I was shooting a fish yesterday that was 1/2" long and it was filling the view window.

Only occasionally is the vis good enough to shoot a distance. However, I got some good shots of the Jewfish on the Spiegel Grove tape when he was 40 to 50 feet away from me.

As for have a remote function would be cool. The Sony comes with a multi-function remote. Just having a on/off record function would be cool... Working with a tripod, you could set up the camera in front of a shy fish's den and back off until the fish came out then "Rec" the tape remotely.

best regards, Glenn
 
Hmm. An UW remote. Ziplock? :wink: In the case I was speaking of, he had the remote inside the housing to control the camera, as it doesn't have a plug for external controls like the Sony's. He dis-assembled and wired the reed switched across where the buttons would be for the controls he wanted to access underwater. Thus no moving controls or extra holes in the housing, just the end caps.
 
Groundhog246:
Hmm. An UW remote. Ziplock? :wink: In the case I was speaking of, he had the remote inside the housing to control the camera, as it doesn't have a plug for external controls like the Sony's. He dis-assembled and wired the reed switched across where the buttons would be for the controls he wanted to access underwater. Thus no moving controls or extra holes in the housing, just the end caps.
Qwest used to do something similar, they even provided a 1 finger glove with the magnet sewn into it to activate the reed switches. I've also just seen a homebuilt tube housing where the remote led was removed, the wiring lengthened, then the led was taped to the remote window on the front of the non-Sony camera, the remote itself was mounted vertically up against the clear backplate and shortened Ikelite pushrods were used for the functions, Ikelite sells pushrods through their dealers - but not their buttons. The maker said it worked, but it was a hassle getting it all aligned everytime you loaded the camera.

Another interesting option I've read about is there's a Sony Tripod that comes with a LANC controller in its base. So you remove the electronics, mount them in your housing and reconfigure the switches to work, I'd guess with reed switches or something similar. Although the remote control idea seems easier.

About your earlier post concerning cutting a groove in a square housing:

Have a machinist cut the groove using a vertical mill. A N/C(computer controlled) mill would be even better - more precise - but more expensive to setup. The nice thing about an N/C machine is that it could cut a square groove with rounded corners. It's probably how anyone who manufactures a housing with a clear backplate does it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom