What type of drysuit?

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jaardappel

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northern New York
Wondering if anyone has some advice for me on what type of drysuit will be best suited for a range of activities.

I'd like to put into my future diving:

Wreck diving

Cold water (St. Lawrence River, NY and possibly Puget Sound, WA)

East Coast water (Outer Banks?) 65-80 deg. F
___________________________________

I have heard that a neoprene drysuit will compress to paper thin at depth vs. a fabric shell. Please shovel advice this way and give me your take on a custom-measured suit.

Thanks much!

John
 
Well, there are good and bad points to be had for all types. I have a 4mil compressed neoprene drysuit - custom - Abyss.

-It's bulkier than the shell suits and takes longer to dry and is bigger for packing. Shell suits you can towel dry.
-neoprene is definitely cheaper than the, say, a Viking suit. I believe trilam suits are close to the same price as neoprene but I might be wrong on that.
-Neoprene will also take scratches/abrasions better especially if -you're diving anywhere near zebra mussels. I've seen a few Viking divers wearing coveralls over their suits to protect them and if they catch their suit or bump up against, they're quickly checking for the slightest damage.
-Neoprene is warmer than the shell suits.

That's all I can think of right now. I'm sure someone else will comment.

Diverlady
 
Diverlady,

Thanks for the advice. Believe there are quite a few mussels in the St. Lawrence river area and abrasion resistance is a good idea.

What do you think of Bare suits? It seems like they are well known and provide a good suit without breaking the pocketbook.

Also, why did you choose an Abyss suit?

What do you normally wear under a neoprene drysuit? I'm assuming that you don't rely on the neoprene for the only warmth right?

Thanks again.

John
 
May Bare ATR light (trilam) has been in the ST Lawrence and Caveing in FL.

The zebera muscles are not even a concern unless your literaly crawling around in them.

Penetrating wrecks can be a touch jumpy when there are sharp bits hanging out in tight places. But so far I haven't had any problems.

Cave diveing did put the suit to the test. If I were to able to dive regulairly in this sort of environment I would need a more robust suit.


IMHO if your not going to do serious penetration or completely neglect the thing almost any suit will hold up well. If you are going to abuse it you should consider some very heavy weight trilams or crushed neo. However your price will basicaly double for that amount of durability.
 
In terms of price, neoprene and coated nylon suits are the least expensive. Neoprene suits are normally 5-7mm and offer warmth even without additional insulation. They are also stretchy and allow a snugger and more streamlined fit than trilam shell suits.

On the negative side, they wear out quicker than most other suits, are bulky, slow to dry, and hard to repair. I spent hours trying to locate a fix a pinhole leak in my wife's neoprene suit. They also seem to require a bit more weight than the average shell suit, but are easy to put on if you are not wearing additional underwear underneath. My wife has worn both her neoprene suit as well as one of my trilams with heavy thinsulate underwear and she swears by her neoprene suit for warmth.

The coated nylon pack cloth suits should be avoided in my opinion. They are inexpensive and work well until the coating on the inside breaks down - then you can pretty much throw it away. They also tend to use lighter nylon cloth on the outside and lack durability and abrasion resistance. Other than a lack of longevity and durability, they function the same as a trilam shell suit.

Tri-laminate suits are next in terms of cost and are good all round suits. In the heavier weights 420 or higher, they are quite durable and I have never managed to put a whole in either of the trilams I own. Mine also have kevlar knee pads which takes the worry out of crawling around on the bottom. They pack in a small volume, dry fast and are fairly easy to repair.

On the negative side, there is no stretch to the material so they tend to be cut a little bulkier and will have a longer than normal torso to facilitate getting into the suit. The end result is a little more drag in the water than many neoprene suits.

Vulcanized rubber suits are next on the list in terms of cost. In my opinon a heavy weight vulvanized rubber is very durable and beats just about any other suit made in that regard. They offer some degree of stretch, dry very fast and can be repaired in minutes with a regular tire patch kit. They are also ideal for diving in contaminated wateras they are easy to rinse. So if you just gotta dive in the cooling pond for the neighborhood nuclear power plant, vulcanized rubber is the way to go.

The down side is that they are heavy and relatively expensive (at least in my neck of the woods) I have also not seen one with a self donning front zip and this is a disadvantage compared to other styles of suits that are available with either a self donning front zip or a less expensive across the shoulders zipper.

Crushed neoprene suits like the CF 200 offer some great overall capabilities. They have some stretch, can be cut a little slimmer, are durable and offer some inherent warmth (not much, but some) the down side is price, which tends to be a little much for my tastes.

In general, neoprene suits will come with neoprene neck and wrist seals while shell suits will have latex seals. In my opinion neoprene seals are harder to replace but hey are more durable in the first place.

Zippers are expensive to replace regardless of the suit, but in general you can replace a zipper in a neoprene suit yourself, while it is strictly a factory job for other types of suits.

I have found that zipper quality varies and in general bigger is better as far as the teeth used in the zipper are concerned. The zipper in my Diamond is the best I have ever seen while the one in my SP Cape Horn is only industry average and on par with the one in my wife's neoprene dry suit.
 
DA Aquamaster,

Great intel there. I really appreciate the time you spent on discussing suits.

I believe I'll save my pennies and go for a crushed neoprene suit with some good kneepads. Thanks for the advice. I have been leaning a bit towards the neoprene side in my mind but didn't know what the experts thought.

Appreciate all the assistance.

V/R

John
 
Trilaminate shell drysuits keep you warmer than other styles.

Whether you wear a rubberized hood or a modified wetsuit hood will depend on how cold the water is.

Rubberized gloves vs wetsuit gloves is the same issue as hoods.

Woolen sox under your boots should keep your feet plenty warm.
 
DTS,

Thanks for the read on tri-laminates and hood/gloves.

I figure that after a few rentals I'll have my mind made up. Appreciate the advice on footwear.

John
 
jaardappel once bubbled...
Diverlady,

Thanks for the advice. Believe there are quite a few mussels in the St. Lawrence river area and abrasion resistance is a good idea.

What do you think of Bare suits? It seems like they are well known and provide a good suit without breaking the pocketbook.

Also, why did you choose an Abyss suit?

What do you normally wear under a neoprene drysuit? I'm assuming that you don't rely on the neoprene for the only warmth right?

Thanks again.

John

I tried a BARE neoprene suit in a pool. It was a bit tight across the shoulders for me and the sleeves were a bit short.

I chose the ABYSS because I am taller than average so a basic off the rack suit (like the BARE) doesn't fit me properly. ABYSS does all custom suits from what I hear. (I hear BARE will be offering custom soon but I don't know if that's for wetsuits, drysuits or both.) Others in my club have ABYSS suits and were quite happy with them so that's how I heard of the company and why I ordered from them.

Under my compressed neoprene I wear BARE drysuit undies (w/ thinsulate). I can't remember which thickness but probably one of the thickest since I'm always cold. I chose the one piece so I wouldn't have to tuck in the top part. I just figured it would be easier. I wear 3 pairs of sock and depending on water temp, I wear fleece tights and a microfleece top under the BARE undies. Or sometimes just a t-shirt and spandex shorts.

Seals: I originally had neoprene neck and wrist seals. However, I have tiny wrists and my tendons protrude a lot which meant the neoprene could not conform and I got wet every dive up to my shoulders. I replaced with latex. Now my arms are dry. My neck seal also got me wet about 50% of the time. I found I couldn't look down without water going down my neck. I tried everything I could think of (as well as a number of suggestions from dive buddies) but eventually replaced that with latex too. The latex is not as warm but if I wear a fleece with a bit of a collar, that's enough to keep the chill off my neck. (my LDS offered to tighten the neo seal up but since women have a greater neck to head size ratio, it would be almost impossible for me to get the size of neck I needed over my head! The latex is much more stretchy).

I have kevlar kneepads on my suit which go from about mid thigh to mid shin - so basically, they're huge!

Diverlady
 
Viking has a fairly new vulcanized rubber suit, The Pro Tech that has a front zipper. They can get away with it because the suit material has a fair amount of stretch to it.
It's kind of pricey though, but who pays full retail? :wink:

The "normal neoprene" suits are the warmest. You have to get down well past 100' before they're squished down to about 1/8" if its Rubatex, or about 60' for the cheaper grades.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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