Stage and pony bottle regulator question

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Crass3000

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I carry a pony bottle while I'm diving and will soon be carrying additional back gas and deco gas. I didn't turn on the vavles on the bottles so the regulator on the tanks seem to get water all the way up into the first. This isn't good because we dive in cold water so water entering the first stage could cause a freeflow later. I'm sure it's not good for the first stage either. The regulators are environmentally sealed if that makes a difference.

Are you supposed to open your tank valves before heading into the water so there is pressure in the first stage and thus water will not enter it? If so would an inline shutoff valve help keep the water out of there? I know that would just add another point of complication but wondering how most people handle this.
 
You can have your pony tanks turned on. Simple.
 
I carry a pony bottle while I'm diving and will soon be carrying additional back gas and deco gas. I didn't turn on the vavles on the bottles so the regulator on the tanks seem to get water all the way up into the first. This isn't good because we dive in cold water so water entering the first stage could cause a freeflow later. I'm sure it's not good for the first stage either. The regulators are environmentally sealed if that makes a difference.

Are you supposed to open your tank valves before heading into the water so there is pressure in the first stage and thus water will not enter it? If so would an inline shutoff valve help keep the water out of there? I know that would just add another point of complication but wondering how most people handle this.

i've read arguments on both sides. Some advocate opening the valve and leaving it on throughout the dive but this increases risk of gas loss with free flow. Others will crack the valve to prime, close the valve for the dive then periodically reprime hose during the dive if pressure drops. Still others add a shut off valve but some will argue that's just another failure point. I prime then shut off my tank because it is a small tank and I don't want to risk a free flow. Eric leaves his open. Find what feels right for you then practice until it is second nature, especially if you decide not to leave the valve on.

i should add that you need to make sure that your dive buddy knows your procedure.
 
If fresh water got in my first stage a few times do they need to be rebuilt?
 
For deco/stage bottles I "charge" the regulator, i.e. open the valve to pressurize the system, and then close the valve, before getting in the water. Checking the bottle pressure and a quick "open/close" of the valve is part of every flow check, which is done ~ every 5 minutes during the dive, as well as at every "highlight" in the dive: before descending, and the end of the descent etc. etc.
 
As for me...open the valve take a few breaths to ensure that all is working well. Shut the valve off. Start the dive and open and close the valve as depth increases. If I am leaving a tank as a stage, one more open and closing and then come back to find a fully bottle. I never leave it open as a stage! Very bad situation returning to a stage to find that it drained down while you were away.
 
If fresh water got in my first stage a few times do they need to be rebuilt?
Really wonder about this? I'm probably gonna get it done to be oxygen clean anyhow but if an environmentally sealed 1st stage rig gets water in it should it be rebuilt just to make sure there is no water in there to freeze?

Edit: Thanks a lot for your answers on the other front.
 
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.... a quick "open/close" of the valve is part of every flow check, which is done ~ every 5 minutes during the dive, as well as at every "highlight" in the dive:...
That is the part that I kept forgetting. Will try to improve.
 
Hi Crass.

I don't now about the rebuild if water gets in but I dive environmentally sealed 1st stages and the manual specifically says that I should either rinse the second stages while they are pressured up or, if they are disconnected from the tank, to rinse the seconds while keeping the 1st elevated above the water and be careful not to press the purge. So environmentally sealed 1st stages can get water through the second stage hose. This is in my manual even though I have what is know as Dry Valve Technology (DVT) which I think is just a spring loaded ball will prevents water access when not connected to the tank. But UI don't think DVT applies to the hoses.

No one has answered as to whether the need to be rebuilt and I am not an expert but will say that definitely salt water will leave crystals so keep pressured up there for sure until you rinse. Other people on SB will be better than I to answer if fresh will cause rust or oxidation in your 1st
 

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