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You don't need a cold water regulator for California coast diving, period. For Tahoe, if you plan on diving in Winter or Spring, or dive deep, and do it often, it may be a consideration, but if it's a couple of days every other year or so, any good regulator will be good enough.

Yes, I did the same thing to stop the slight flow that I was getting when I was on a scooter because I didn't want to dial the second stage up and down all the time. You need two parts, the cover itself and the bezel. The bezel serves the same function as the one on the B1 does, holding the...

The ST1 first stage should have the same geometry as the other models. As such, it is a simple matter to have it sealed in the same manner as with the M1. Christolube is filled inside the ambient chamber, and the rubber trim ring with holes is replaced with one without holes. I'm guessing you...

If it's not obvious to you how to use it (as described by spacemanspiff1974) then it seems that you have a yoke fitting that goes in place of the DIN fitting, not a DIN-to-yoke adapter. If so, you need to unscrew the DIN fitting with a hex allen and screw the yoke fitting on. Torque spec used to...

My copies of the manufacturer parts diagram and repair manual both say 33ft lbs, with a couple of instances of 29ft lbs (for the same part, which is strange, but it's still close enough). Are you sure you are looking at Atomic?

OK, I was able to recheck the spec sheet and the actual official Atomic repair procedures document, and it is indeed 33 ft-lbs. (I see I had a typo in my first reply. ft-lbs, not ft/lbs. :-p)

That was 7 years ago. And I understand there were maybe a handful of regulators that had problems and most of these were found only during scheduled maintenance. (And no in-water incidents, IIRC.)

The second stages in the high end regulators are generally more expensive than the first stages, and the Atomic octos are just regular second stages. Not sure about the specific prices though.

The swivel hose that comes with Atomic regulators won't fit on other makes, but Atomic has a Universal Comfort swivel for non-Atomic regulators.

BTW, anyone in a situation where a regulator failure can be a real danger (deco diving, cave diving, etc.) should test the regulators in some easy dives after service. At the least the service should be staggered so that you're not in a situation where all your regulators are being used for the...

Human perception is notoriously inaccurate especially with respect to force. I read about a study somewhere about experienced mechanics tightening bolts to what they thought were the right specs by feel, and they were all over the map. Since your work setup and body position is very different...

That's what I noted down from the manufacturer(Atomic) parts list/diagram, after which I triple checked. But I don't have the documents myself, so if someone else does, please feel free to confirm. I see on one manufacturer service manual I do own, that Aqualung Titan first stages require 20...

Yup. There's really not too much difference in the first stage of a Conshelf and something like an Aqualung Legend. Switching the second stage to a high performance model would result in the best bang for the buck. Note that the Titan(not LX)/Calypso second stage is mechanically pretty much the...

33 ft/lbs for both DIN and yoke fittings. Your Atomic dealer should be able to get the yoke nut for you. Did you scratch it up?

I'm pretty sure that the Conshelf SE2 has a high enough flow rate for anything a single diver may encounter. There are many dimensions to a regulator's performance besides maximum flow rate. If two regulators have the same flow rate but with one it takes more effort to initiate this flow, then...

High flow mouthpiece? What's that? :confused:

While all the advice here is good, my advice is to try a current model high performance regulator. My first regulator was a Conshelf SE2. I got it in 1992 and then used it till 2000. I then switched to an Atomic B1. While the Conshelf is a great solid regulator, the difference in breathing...

There is no manual venturi adjustment on the Atomics. The venturi adjustment is automatic, via the AFC, which reduces the venturi assist when at the surface and "turns it on" once you are under pressure. So when you did this on land, the venturi effect was already turned down. What you did...

The Jet Piston is supposed to slightly increase flow rate, which probably makes zero difference to the user, but more importantly it makes the IP less susceptible to creeping. With the pre-Jet piston, on occasion especially with heavy use of HP tanks the IP would start to creep a little before...

The Jet piston upgrade kit costs ~$80 if I remember correctly. You can tell by looking at the HP seat cap (on the opposite side of where the LP turret is). If the cap is mostly covered with rubber, it has the new piston. If the rubber piece over there is instead donut shaped, exposing the HP...