another bonaire trip report

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arcticcat

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Location
canada
We just returned on Jan 10 from 34 great days on Bonaire.
Great trip report O ring and SG. Too bad we could we did not meet. Must have waved at each other u.w. though.

The place is so laid back. No comparison to cozumel in this regard
The diving is safe and great. Almost a complete absence of american culture.

We stayed at black durgeon inn. Its just north of Don's, and right in front of small wall and the u.w. web cam. Good basic inn on the water, with a shared open air kitchen and bar-b-q. Great ambieance. The wife and I will stay there next time.

Our favourite sites were:
1) La daniels leap swim north to Karpata. About a 40 min relaxed swim. Spend a few minutes at the entry. Its a beautiful drop off into deep blue. As a landmark about 50 yards south of the exit at karpara look for a big old anchor in the reef at about 35 feet. Around here we usually say turtles.
2) Also karpata swim north and then south to exit at karpata.
3) The oil tanks north of karpata. Walk in at the boat ramp. South is the marine park, so not enter. Swim north, stay shallow for 50 yards or so till the reef starts. There is a large mast stuck in the reef a ways up north. The ship is around 200 deep. So I was told. Teck divers were going down with u.w. scotters, cameras, stage bottles etc. Around here we usually saw turtles.
4) Small wall for a late afternoon to dusk dive when the fish all school up. Best time of day.
5) Small wall for a night dive. 1st night dive saw a 5' green moray free swiming. He stopped in the cave at the wall base. What makes this dive at might unforgetable is Charlie the 5' tarpon. Did a dozen night dives at small wall and he swam with us 3/4 of the time. He hunts from your dive light. His skill at hunting and swiming is amazing. He would often pass by us only inches away and snag a fish right within a few feet from us. His jaws make a sound 2 rocks banging together and could be heard when he is long out of site. The last night Charlie had a girlfriend a much thinner 4 ' tarpon.
6) Oil slick. Nice site, close to the inn. Such an easy entry. Why do people pay for a boat dive here?
7) Andrea 1 to andrea 2. Again close and easy.

You will get robbed. All rental cars are a sign to rob the stupid white tourists. New cars (you pick them up with full tanks) parked at the inn are a draw to siphon gas. We all got siphoned a few times.


Tip: Keep the tank near empty. It takes only 1/8th to go from town to dive kaparta then drive back through Rincon.
Tip: I was told not to lock the gas tank. Thieves will just cut the gas line.
Tip: A few tie raps up under the dash of the car will hide bills for gas or food. Hide everything, shorts, glasses.
Tip: Drive slow. Our truck was a 98 toyota truck. The tires breaks headlights suspension etc are from the 60's. They are not sport cars. A few idiots had a different view on this.
Tip: Drive slow. Donkeys are grey black and hard to see. They will step out on the road. Goats too.
Tip: Bring power bars. With an apple and some carrots or celery makes a good lunch.
Tip: For a few laughs feed bits of celery and apple to the lizards. They are well trained at oil slick.
Tip: We kept costs down by staying at black durgon, doing our own meals, no boat dives. Hence the 24 days. Would do it again this way.
Tip: Being canadian we found it friggin hot during the day. What would seem like a quick run to town at noon for beer will take more out of you that a 70 min dive a 1000 steps. Plan your shopping, go early morning.
Tip: Other than food there is nothing worth shopping for on Bonaire.
Tip: Amstel beer is brewed down there and is good. The Amstel bright and lite and canned beer and heinaken beer empties go to the dump. Amstel in brown bottles gets returned. Be cool.
Tip: The famous ice cream place in rincon has good ice cream. I however had a serious side effect both times after eating even a small one. After a long hot day of diving then ice cream I could not even think of a beer for at least 2 hours afterwords. Lucky the effects wore off. The stuff is like eating butter.
Tip: I was told the best dive shop is at the Carib. Nice people too.
Tip: The famous salt pier night dive. You will see lots of trash. And not on my list of favorites, see above. You will read "get permission". We went to the company office, then to harbourmaster office. Down there nobody cares. You can tell at night a frieghter from a sail boat from a cruise ship. If a ship is coming don't do it. If a ship is there don't do it. Duh?
Tip: All the urchins we saw at shore are black.
Tip: We used our rock boots. They were not overkill. If you do not have drysuit boots or stiff booties invest. La daniels leap and 1000 steps are great sites that involve a good hike.
Tip: Some shore entries can be a challange if the wind and waves are up. Watch where you put your hands, use your reg and mask while getting fins on, relax and laugh when you get pushed around.
Tip: Though we did not eat out much for reasons stated above.
For real coffee the outdoor cafe across from KFC downtown. Better yet bring your own.
For lunch good and cheap try the old inn.
For supper excellent and good prices try cassablanca. One great evening, after a 4 dive day, waiting for take out, sipping a couple ice cold amstels with an Enya CD playing on their stero. Magic.
 
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