Bauer BP13 - what should I know?

[TravisD]

So as mentioned in my other thread on bank size, I 'ended up with' the fill station from my LDS. Aside from a whole lotta bank bottles, of course there's also the compressor.

Docs/data plate says this is a Bauer "BP13-E3" which seems to be a package based on the IK12.14 II compressor block.

Date is from 2001 (when the shop opened) - currently at 37xx hours, and a major overhaul/service was done about 10 hours ago by Delray (out of VA). This was not cheap as I understand it...

It has the Securus system (and has always run OEM Bauer filters), and has been on Bauer branded synthetic oil.

It's been on 3ph and 1ph (10HP) motors at times - I just converted it back to 1ph using the same motor/contactor/starter that it was on a few years ago. Haven't completed electrical hookup yet, hopefully soon. With any luck the local power company won't come and yell at me.

I've got the manuals for this, so have the official info which I've been reading up on. Figured I'd ask here though - is there anything else I should know about this thing?

Plan is to add a Nitrox stick sometime in the near future - probably bank 36%.

Thanks in advance!

 

[tbone1004]

With a 10hp motor I would consider putting it back on the 3ph motor and buying a VFD for it which will give you soft start/stop. That motor has something like an 80a startup current so keeping it on the 3ph motor with a VFD will keep the house happy. It's like a $1200 VFD but that is a massive motor to turn on a house breaker, especially if you have things like heat pumps running in the house at the time....

Other than that, not a whole lot that the manual won't tell you, it's a bitching pump.

 

[TravisD]

Since it's run this configuration before, hoping it's happy - if not will look into a VFD.

 

[Tracy]

You will be happy with that machine as long as you run it. The major downside to a full sized machine for home use is they rarely get enough use to keep them happy. Especially if you live in a place with an off season. When they sit for periods of time, you tend to get rust on the valves shortening their life.
Since you are installing a bank, that is great as you will have nice run intervals allowing everything to get up to temp as opposed to filling individual cylinders and short cycling the machine.
Congrats on your purchase. That is a great machine.

 

[tbone1004]

Since it's run this configuration before, hoping it's happy - if not will look into a VFD.

oh the compressor doesn't care about being on single or 3-phase, it's making sure you have a big enough circuit to actually run a pump that big. You're going to need to run at least a 100a subpanel to comfortably run it, then have it on its own 100a breaker. With the 3-phase motor you could easily do it on a 50a breaker

 

[TrimixToo]

You will be happy with that machine as long as you run it. The major downside to a full sized machine for home use is they rarely get enough use to keep them happy. Especially if you live in a place with an off season. When they sit for periods of time, you tend to get rust on the valves shortening their life.
Since you are installing a bank, that is great as you will have nice run intervals allowing everything to get up to temp as opposed to filling individual cylinders and short cycling the machine.
Congrats on your purchase. That is a great machine.

This is among the reasons I use breathing air for filling tires. Yep, tires. Tires really like dry air. I even carry a pony in each car with a plug kit, but I most often use the ponies to help people with low or flat tires. Also, I use breathing air for air tools. I have an appropriately derated first stage for the air tools, which like 90 PSI a whole lot better than 140 PSI. You can do the entire roof of a small-ish house with a set of Faber 108s to run the nailer.

(This isn't a case of having only one hammer. There's a big shop compressor in the garage too, which among other things runs the Haskel pump nicely.)

(Edit: Correct t7po.)

 

[TravisD]

oh the compressor doesn't care about being on single or 3-phase, it's making sure you have a big enough circuit to actually run a pump that big. You're going to need to run at least a 100a subpanel to comfortably run it, then have it on its own 100a breaker. With the 3-phase motor you could easily do it on a 50a breaker

It was previously on a 50a breaker, and that’s what it’s going back on. (Referring to the prior 1ph config that I’m returning it to). It’ll be about 6 wire feet from my main 200a panel.

Regarding rusting valves - I was under the impression that this type of compressor puts oil into the air. Does that help prevent valve rust?

Probably going to have to get rid of my old Craftsman shop compressor due to space. Already have an air tool regulator set up for when I need to run tools.

 

[Tracy]

Regarding rusting valves - I was under the impression that this type of compressor puts oil into the air. Does that help prevent valve rust?

It helps, but when it is humid, a multi stage compressor is basically just a glorified water maker. You will be amazed by the amount of condensate they generate on a humid day. There is a lot of water in the air going through the pump. Depending on your drain system, not all systems dump the drains when you shut down the machine.

 

[Gone for diving]

It was previously on a 50a breaker, and that’s what it’s going back on. (Referring to the prior 1ph config that I’m returning it to). It’ll be about 6 wire feet from my main 200a panel.

We had a single phase 10hp electric motor that first ran a hammer mill, and now a big compressor. (In freezing weather it's a hard start)

The shop and barn is on a 60 amp breaker and a long run, so I think you will have no problems, but the house will definitely dim a bit on start up.(serious surge)
But you should able to vent the outlet to unload the compressor if you have problems.

 

[tbone1004]

It was previously on a 50a breaker, and that’s what it’s going back on. (Referring to the prior 1ph config that I’m returning it to). It’ll be about 6 wire feet from my main 200a panel.

Regarding rusting valves - I was under the impression that this type of compressor puts oil into the air. Does that help prevent valve rust?

Probably going to have to get rid of my old Craftsman shop compressor due to space. Already have an air tool regulator set up for when I need to run tools.

if you're only on a 200a main panel then just make sure you don't have a lot of other stuff running when you start up, i.e. don't have AC, oven, and dryer on or you'll trip the main breaker. If you are running the wires, run the wires for a 100a circuit since it's only 6ft, your main panel will appreciat that.

The rust is more from lack of use than anything. The compressor doesn't put a lot of oil into the air but there is some that squeaks by the rings, doesn't help the first intake valve though. The biggest thing is making sure that it gets fully up to temperature and try to run it semi-frequently, don't let it sit for months at a time and then short cycle it. Basically let the banks run down enough to really let it work then try to let it run for at least half an hour if not longer